Question??
How do the balls on  the wheel end of the axle get lubed?

On the 79 Toyota I used to have there was a plug in the ball and you pumped it full of grease.
I see no such access point on the Zuk Front End.

So, How do you lube the axle balls? (OK Closed Knuckles)

Thanks

pull the hubb body and spindel off and start packin hahah its that simple.
Toyota had the idea of putting the fill hole, of which you could tap and put in a grease zurk which came in very handy. Im sure you could pull the knuckle off and drill and tap for a zurk im accutly thinking about doing that.

Anyways, it only takes an hour or so to pull it apart and put it back together, and thats hoping that you doing like drop your hubb and have it explode then have to spend an hour putting it back together....

hope that helps some what


Amilla

for me its been easier to just pull the one of the top pins that hold the spindle on .four bolts and stick the head of the grease gun in the center hole and pump away.

Ya thats another way to do it, and thats quite a bit easyer hahha

Thanks

Amilla

Good thread. I think I will pull one of the bolts, drill and tap it and put in a grease nipple/zurk.

Hi Rhino,
From personal experience.

I have seen people drill and tap a hole in the side of the hub / spindle / big bit with all the crap hanging off of it 

BUT: During routine maintenance I kept finding that the top "King pin" bearing was dry so drill and tap a hole through that area and fit a grease nipple so that the bearing gets lubed at the same time - gravity will take care of the rest of the internals 

Just my 2c

ZeusZuki 

You guys don't need all that grease in there, all it does is slow you down, when the zuk was made they did not have all of the fancy grease like they have now, just get a good timken rating like 75 or so and put a light coat inside the bell of the cv joint itself, the king pin bearings don't need that much either.

You guys don't need all that grease in there, all it does is slow you down, when the zuk was made they did not have all of the fancy grease like they have now, just get a good timken rating like 75 or so and put a light coat inside the bell of the cv joint itself, the king pin bearings don't need that much either.

Yep.   Just pack them & put them back together.  Samurais may have their little quirks, but the kingpin and Birfield joint area isn't one of them.  Keep everything clean and packed with OEM-spec grease.  Replace the pads and seals on the ball as necessary.

One thing that you have to remember when purchasing and operating a Samurai: 

1. Don't count on the previous owner's ability to take care of regular maintenence items

2. If it has high miles, there will be lots of stuff that needs tending to at least once. Hub relubrication/seal replacement and timing belt replacement are two that come to mind.

3. Samurais are pretty well-built from the get-go (okay, some might debate the engine... maybe) so there is little point in re-engineering anything just for re-engineering's sake unless you are into that  .

4. Samurais are danged easy to work on.  Well, if you don't count the Hitachi carburetor...

you know on my 1.3 that carb gave me so many problems.guess my destiny was fuel injection

...head of the grease gun in the center hole and pump away.

change pump away to few pumps

I think every zuk knuckle i have opened up, the top king pin bearing has always been destoryed.  Leaving lots and lots of ground up metal packed into the grease, oh and and normally the axle seal is non-exsistanant to.  Not to sure whats going first but it seems to be a common problem.

Wish me luck, im going to attempt to re-build my sammi's carb.


Amilla

You guys don't need all that grease in there, all it does is slow you down

And all this time I thought it was my poor compression that was slowing me down!

I pack my knuckles with marine grease to help keep water out, but then I like low water crossings.  Keeps the "balls" lubed too...

for its been easier to just pull the one of the top pins that hold the spindle on .four bolts and stick the head of the grease gun in the center hole and pump away.

Do i see some custom cross over steering?


Amilla

first version.worked great till the welded diff exploded.and chunked the axls.and before i get ripped into .i know its not a proper steering arm, and it was welded to the spindle,didn't wnt to break off the brake ears .i was going to runn them till she popped.