My front diff air pump is intermittent at best. Would like to get tech info on how it works before bending over for the dealer. Does anyone have a shop manual that they would be willing to take jpegs of the pertinent pages? In particular the purpose of the 2nd air hose and the 3 wires. I wonder if an aftermarket air pump that works off the cig. lighter (less than $20) could be rigged to actuate the engagement collar rather than getting raped for several hundred$ from the dealer for a proven-inadequate part.

THANKS for any help!
Bob

That's why I want to find out more about how it works. I was figuring a $20 tire inflator that plugs into the cig lighter might be as good as a $300 dealer part that craps out prematurely, even if it's not used, because of the stupid place they mounted it.

Bob

you would need a way to hold the air pressure (at 5-8 psi) to keep it in 4wd and then release it when you want 2wd.  if you're good with pneumatics you could probably rig up something, but if you're planning on keeping the truck for a while I'd just scrap the system completely and go with the old style sidekick diff and manual hubs.  i was able to lock mine with a bike pump when I was diagnosing what when wrong with it.

the air pressure moves a locking ring about 0.25 inches inside the diff to engage it.  the ring is preloaded with a wave spring so that when pressure is released the locking ring automatically reverts to the disengaged position.  i've never heard of anybody doing it, but when i took the old air diff out i didn't see any reason why the locking ring couldn't be welded into the locked position with a few tacks going around it.  this would only cost a few dollars and take a day of your time.  you'd want to get manual hubs of course.

Anybody looked into a 1 piece shaft to replace the two pieces on that side?  That's one of the fixes for Dodges and Jeeps with their CAD front axles.

AJMBLAZER - The inner shaft is already one piece - the mechanism is part of the diff.

Okay so then what is the ring dohickey on?  Wouldn't it have to be sitting on some kind of axleshaft for it to work?

I didn't disassemble the diff to see exactly how it works, but this picture should give you a pretty good idea.  The locking ring looked to me like it could be welded into the locked position - but I didn't try since I had a sidekick diff to put in anyway.  The wave spring is very light - it is easy to move with your fingers.

Definately too many small peices for me.  Sounds like a Kick diff would be the best idea.

just put the kick diff in and be done with it - you'll never have to worry about it again.

You have read the reviews of the process though, correct?

Sounds like you need a specific model of Kick front diff.

AJMBLAZER - I read Yankee-Tim's article but never understood why you needed the Japanese (rather than Cami built) sidekick diffs.  Perhaps it is for the 5.12 ratio?  You do need to be careful of the year though (1996-98) because you need 26 splines (not 22).  I have no idea where my "new" diff was even made.

My '01 tracker (2 door, 5 speed) has 4.625 gears and I wanted to stay that way since it is basically stock and will be staying that way for now (i have an old range rover for wheeling).  I simply ordered a 26 spline sidekick front diff with 4.625 gears from trail tough - this had an aluminum 3rd member of course.  I also needed a 26 spline sidekick passenger side cv/axle and made a hybrid shaft with my original - pretty easy to do actually.  On the inner axle shaft I simply ground about 1/16" off the diff end and everything lined up perfect (kept the spring clip in place). I think Yankee-Tim replaced the inner shaft with one from the same sidekick - i didn't find this was necessary on my truck - if it is cheap to buy you may want to rather than taking it apart twice.

For your XL7 you want to talk to Brent at trail tough.  Most likely you'll want to stick with a steel 3rd member - which was not available on the kick.  The gear ratio is up to you as well - what does your truck have?

I added up all the costs and I spent only $20 more converting to the sidekick diffs than replacing the unreliable air pump with a new one from the dealer.   The total was $470 which includes the diff, cv/axle, manual hubs, gear oil, cv joint grease, shipping costs, and even gaskets and two nuts and bolts that I broke.  I think your cost might be slightly higher since you'll want to stick with the steel 3rd member, but call trail tough to price it out and see what your options are - they are GREAT to deal with.

The install was surprisingly easy except I had two frozen/rusted bolts that didn't want to come out of the differential to chassis mount.  A lot of pounding and penetrating oil eventually persuaded them.  Two people make life much easier during reassembly and it easily can be done in a day.  No special tools required either - only sockets and wrenches.

I finished the install about three weeks ago and have used the 4wd twice - once in the snow and once off-road.  It has worked perfectly both times and there are no leaks or anything unusual.  The only thing I have to address still is the 4wd indicator light - but that is very minor and I'll get around to that once it warms up around here.

Please post up if you have more questions!  But call trail tough to find out what to do about getting a sidekick diff put into a steel 3rd member with your desired ratio.  I'm more of a rover nut so i'm not up on all of the suzuki variations...yet!

I'm in no hurry to do anything with ours yet.  It still works and the money isn't available.

XL7's with autos came with 5.12s from the factory.  If I were to do this with mine I'd look more into deleting the air stuff as I already have the steel third and the 5.12's.

Apparently the 96+ Japanese spec front diffs are to a similar spec as the 99+ Vit/Tracker diffs.  The CAMI ones seem to have used their older spec and this creates some kind of issue...I think.  No one's really clarified it and Yankee Tim isn't on here much and is sometimes kinda ambiguous in his answers.

My front diff air pump is intermittent at best.

I have a low mile, working air pump for $75 shipped.

Thank you for the offer. I've already found a replacement but not installed yet since I have another problem in the same area - seized condenser fan. Just now trying to find out if there is a way to replace it without tearing the front end off. Also trying to find a source - or are they repairable?

Thanks again!

Bob