I don't want to remove the radiator to get the impact wrench on it -- my compressor is probably too weak to break it loose anyway even though it's only supposed to be 40 ft-lbs.

I couldn't figure out a way to hold the teeth without damaging them.

I tried to put a couple of bolts in the gear (without the pulley on) and use them for leverage, but no luck.

I'm thinking of getting one of those chain/vise-grip tools to hole the pulley like Haynes suggests.  The service manual shows a special to hold the flywheel still, but I doubt that tool would be easy to come by.

Any tips would be appreciated.

I used a large screwdirver to hold the flywheel through the hole in the side of the tranny. The one you check timing through. Careful not to break any of the teeth.

Although the FSM might state that 40+ foot pounds is the setting for that bolt, I think it should be more like 75+ foot pounds.  Check AAAP's site for more info on it.....

An impact will take it off without
holding the flywheel, or get the
flywheel blocked with a screwdriver
and a cheater on a 1/2" ratchet
to pop it loose

Wild

I have a nice trick.
set the 17 or 19 mm ( I don´t remember wich one )wrench in the crankshaft bolt , get yourself a nice wood log small enough to fit on the driver's side of the oil pan make sure the wrench is long enough to hit the log and that the timing belt is still on. remove the distributor cap or ignition coil positive wire ( so the engine won't start) and crank it , as the engine turns , the wrench will hit the log and the bolt gets magically lose without any effort , and besides you don't need to remove the radiator. I have done it several times but have never tried it without removing the readiator , give it a try .

Oh ya I forgot about that one. works for tightening too.

How would that work to tighten on a Track/Kick/Sam
Engine turns clockwise as you look at it, no matter how
you turn it, that's loosening the bolt  

And it's a 17mm

I put the 17 mm on it and turned the engine over, it workewd some how

Well, I was too much of a chicken to try letting the starter break the bolt loose (too worried about damaging teeth on the starter and/or flywheel).

I looked all around but couldn't find the old style chain/vise-grip type wrench.  But, I did get a strap-wrench set at Sears for $20.  It has two strap wrenches (one large and one small) and it worked great  

I saw it the other day and didn't think it'd be up to the task 'cause they show using it on faucets, jar lids, and other wimpy stuff like that.  But, a co-worker told me he used it on his fan pulley and it worked so I figured I'd give it a shot.

I tightened it down and tucked the handle under the A/C compressor while I worked on the bolt with my 1/4", make that 1/2",  ratchet until it finally broke loose.  So, it's a pretty good success story.

Too bad, after all that, the front crank seal looked pretty good.  I'm thinking they may have changed it when the previous owner had the timing belt changed    Anyway, I know the front crank & cam seals are new now.

Now I just have to get the valves adjusted and hope the thing starts  :-/

   I would try a strap wrench seen one in my book it has a rubber strap that looks kindof like a fan belt and the wrench itself looks like the oil filter wrench that fit diff size oil filters. Does that make any since ?  

How would that work to tighten on a Track/Kick/Sam
Engine turns clockwise as you look at it, no matter how
you turn it, that's loosening the bolt  

And it's a 17mm

::)Bwahhhhhhhhhaaha

You turn the little magic switch on the front of the block and the engine rotates the other way. I dont know I think I was smoking crack that day or somethin :-/

Daized and cornfused  

Daized and cornfused  

Shouldn't that be Maized, and Cornfused???

   LOL