I'm at a bit of a loss on what to look at next without a proper wiring/logic diagram.

From what I understand, once the Tracker warms up when you open the throttle the EGR Valve should open up.  In order to do that once the vehicle is warm the front EGR Solenoid Vacuum Valve needs to open so the vacuum from the intake has a clean path to the EGR Transducer.

But when the engine warms up there is still 12v at the EGR Solenoid Vacuum Valve.  If I unplug it then rev the engine the EGR Valve opens up properly.  Does anyone know what sensor tells the computer to open up the front EGR Solenoid Vacuum Valve?

Also, what is the rear EGR Solenoid Vacuum Valve (on the back of the engine) used for?  From what I can tell it allows the vacuum line running to the EGR Valve to be connected to the back of the intake manifold instead of coming from the EGR Transducer.

Then again, I may just be making this all to complicated. 

hey man i went through all this.  i have a 94 we tested everything from the switch, hoses, coolent temp. censor, cylonoid, and vacum, everything checked out.  but i found out for my year you have to have the tires spin freely for the egr to open.  still the egr code poped up,  what happens alot with the cars is the passage ways to the egr get block, get carbond up and i am quoting a Suzuki repare man on that, and what you can do is take the EGR off clean it with a wire brush then clear all the ports and your prob, should be solved, your going to wana replace the gasket though, i havent done mine yet because of time, but on your question of what does the EGR do?  it takes carbondioxide from the motor and mixes it in with the air fule mixture,  this is how u get good gas mileage, with my EGR blocked im getting about 25  but thats with a cold air intake, and full 2 and 1/4 exhaust so i should be getting alot better.  any more ?'s just ask

Ya I agree, mine 94 tracker egr trouble code is on too, I am going to take it off and clean her out this coming week...  im getting poor MPG too.... but I also need to do plugs, oil change...

You will always have 12V at the VSV while the engine is running. The ECU switches the return to operate the valve. VSV operation depends on a number of the ECU sensors - Vehicle Speed Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor and Coolant Temperature Sensor being the primary ones. It doesn't operate at altitudes above approx. 8200 ft
The EGR valve allows a small amount of the exhaust gases to be injected into the inlet manifold. This reduces the combustion temperature which in turn reduces NOX emissions.
Like S. Sidekick says the ports are most probably clogged up or you have a vacuum leak or blocked vacuum hose.
I removed the exhaust manifold to clean out the passageway across the back of the bock, I believe others have used a fine wire.

On my '96, we replaced the EGR valve, and still had the OBD throw an EGR code.  We found that the tube from the EGR valve to the head was blocked with carbon at the head end, and the port into the head was also blocked.  Remove the tube by removing the four 10mm bolts (2 each end). 

 We cleared the tube by running a stiff wire through it, and cleared the port in the head with a wire and some Gumout as well.   After about 20 minutes of driving, the check engine light went out and we haven't had the problem since. 

When I manually close/open the EGR valve the engine dies like it is supposed to according to the testing.

If you are always supposed to have 12V at the front VSV then why even have the EGR system in place?  With 12V there the EGR Valve never opens, if I disconnect the front VSV the EGR valve opens and closes normally.

I cleaned out the lines as much as possible, but a previous owner cross threaded one of the bolts for the EGR valve so I can't pull it off without possibly snapping the head off the bolt.  And I would rather not do that.     But I have removed all of the attaching lines and made sure they are free of obstructions.

The EGR system was redesigned in 96, so some of the fixes for 95 and lower tracker sadly won't work. 

If you are always supposed to have 12V at the front VSV then why even have the EGR system in place?  With 12V there the EGR Valve never opens, if I disconnect the front VSV the EGR valve opens and closes normally.

I don't have any information that shows two VSVs for the EGR, maybe someone has an FSM. The 12V supply is usually a blue/black wire that is common to most of the solenoids and relays. The signals aren't grounded so nothing works until the ECU grounds them. If both VSVs have the blue/black wire then they are both operated by the ECU, if not then I've no idea, you'll have to have a look around and see if you can find the other end of the wire. Have you tried putting 12V across the front VSV to see if it works?

I just took my EGR valve off, it was clogged, and cleaned out the port as best I can.. we will see if that helps... man was it clogged!

I am going off of the diagram under the hood that shows the routing of the lines.

There are two VSV's on the front of the engine.  One is for clearing out the fuel vaporization canister, the other is for the EGR vacuum system.

I went ahead and made a quick diagram of the EGR system as I understand it.  I might be able to take a picture of the one on the car later.  But this is the system as I understand it.

With the SVV (EGR Solenoid Vacuum Valve), with 12V applied intake is from Line 1.  Without 12V the intake is from Line 2.  Outbound is Line 3. 

The EGR Transducer acts like a vacuum relay, with a small vacuum applied to side 1 a larger amount of vacuum is applied to side 2 that then runs into SVV2.  Since there is no voltage at SVV2, the vacuum pressure then flows through to the EGR valve and opens it.

With 12V applied to SVV1 there is no vacuum applied to the EGR Transducer as the connection is made to an air filter that is just on the front end.  If I disconnect the power from SVV1 it allows the flow of vacuum to line 3 from line 3, thus opening the EGR Transducer, and then the EGR valve when the engine is revved up.