Volvo Turbo & intercooler.  WOuld make a nice mod to assist the Kick on 36's





Ranger 5" lift coils also a nice addition to the Kick on 36's





Ditch witch...  WHat Can I say:  Dana 70's or Bigger, geared to the moon, full hydro steering with rams & orbital valve.  It is a Narrow mini  "Tiny" rock buggy waiting to happen.   Yes I believe these axle are the same low U-wrench it price as all the rest.  Too bad it caught fire.

im liking the turbo setup  

Volvo intercooler needs some
side tank refabrication to fit, that's
what I'm using, but the turbo is too
big for a 1.6 or even a 1.8
Get a Turbo from a Subaru 1.8 Turbo
wagon or coupe, and it will be fast  Yo


Wild

Hey Wild,

How is your latest header holding up?

Bill

Well it's been over 2 years of DD and
it's doing fairly well, there have ben a
few cracks develop at the weld seams,
mostly because I used sched 40 weld
ells and a 110v mig welder to put it all
together. Ideally a tig or a more powerfull
mig would be the best, but in comparison
to the others I built, it's durable.

I'm looking into a 16V head swap and a
different turbo location, with that I need
a new header, and seeing how well this
design works, I would build it again, and
use stainless steel instead, that would be
the last header I would have to build.

For about $100 I could have had the steel
header ceramic coated, but that too can burn
off from too intense of heat, for about the
same cost as steel and ceramic, you could
have stainless steel, which would look totally
cool, stainless takes on a cool looking golden
color from the heat.

Wild

Wild,  I finally checked out your page.  Man that is some fancy tube work        Any ideia how the Multi port system will react to boost?  



Still undecided weather to make the leap into Turbo charging,  I've got a lot of studying to do.  

I did bring the Volvo turbo & intercooler home along with the 5"+ Ranger lift coils.  The Ditch Witch with (60" WMS - WMS) HD D-70's & Detroit Lockers front & rear were already gone.

The MPI is a Mass Flow system,
last I heard it worked well and
seemed to tolerate boost well.

I plan on running the MegaSquirt
with the new MS2 module, it will
have spark retard for boosted
conditions, I don't have teh stock
ECU, and I don't think I will need it
for my project.

Hey update me on your fuel injection. Are you running 4 injectors now? How much do you have in your MegaSquirt computer?

Bill

The MegaSquirt is running 4 injectors,
4x35 PPH low Z injectors from a Turbo
T-bird, and the stock ECU is still running
the cold start and fuel requirments up to
around 2 PSI, after 2 PSI the MS adds the
additional fuel needed to keep from running
too lean.

I just re-flashed the computer with the dual
table program, this allows for 2 different maps
to be programed, the reason I went with the
DT programing was to get a true 0 pulse width
when there should be no fuel flowing to the
injectors. with the standard programing the
injectors get a 1.0 ms pulse, which is the open
closing time for the injectors.
I noticed at an idle the motor was running a little
rich, more now with the bigger injectors.
When I was runing the 19 PPH injectors it wasn't
a problem.

Other than the cost of a laptop that I had allready,
my total cost for the MegaSquirt is around $200,
and that would include the cost of the injectors too.

You can't touch a system like this for less than
$700-$1000 so this was really the only way to go.
Totally programable, super versital, and with the
dual table, I can drive the EFI and add a water
injection as well, all computer controlled, hows
that for cool  


Wild

Super cool...  How much Boost do you think a Zook engine will take.   I was doing some reading on the Turbo Brick site this evening and learned that they were injecting water once they reached over 18 psi.   THey also calculated the boost rate on the Volvo 740 to equal a rough estimated 11hp per pound of boost.

At Moab I was running 9 PSI boost,
until I blew the turbo (low oil PSI)
the new one has a 7 PSI wastegate.

With 9 PSI you need 91 RON gas to
keep from pinging, and that is with
an intercooler, without there is nothing
short of race gas to prevent ping, tho water
injection might.

I figure HP increase in %  1 PSI is = to
about 10% HP increase, and the time
speed #s confirm that this is a close
aproximation.

At 9 PSI boost I was able to hit about
90 MPH in the 1/4 (aprox)  and the RW HP
was at about 125-130 add some losses
which is about 15-20 for driveline and
other losses and that gives about 145 to
150 crank HP which is right at a 90% gain
over the stock 80 HP 1.6 8V motor.

A better head design will give a higher
Volumetric Efficience (VE) and a higher
per PSI boost  HP rise.

Remember PSI of boost does not = more
HP, volume of air and fuel does, more flow
will give more HP gain over high boost, the
boost does help the air flow better, but a
high VE natural asperated engine will get
better HP increase with a turbo than a poor
VE engine with the same PSI of boost.

To get better PSI usage, a lower CR piston
is needed, about 7.5-8.0:1 is better than the
stock 9.1:1 ratio, and ping will be more controled.

I can drive on 87 RON fuel, but performance
driving requires higher RON (full throttle,
high speed hills, and sand dunes are all high
power demand situations)

Wild