I have a 1991 Chevy Tracker and was wondering if there were any 6 cylinder engines out there that would fit and bolt up easily.

Thanks

Easy??  No

a 4.3 Vortec or 2.7 XL-7 V6 are the "easiest" routes i think   

Trade in your '91 for a '99 or '00 and things will be much "easier".

i would like to put a v6 in my tracker

Let me put it together for you to understand....   GOT $$$$$?  Then it ll be easy and cheap for you because you ll have someone else to do it for you.  We all would love to install V6 in our zuks, but like i said... GOT $$$$$?  or You're talented fabricator, and got good mechanic skills then you can install it for alot less.

So, Easy?  No way.  the closest easy swap can be is 2.0 that's 4 inline.  and it produces 135 hps. 

Ok, sorry to thread jack then....

how easy is it to drop in a 2.0?  I'd actually love to do this on my 1995 2-door.

So has anyone on here put in the Vortec V6 in a tracker

Check the FAQ and lightning conversions at  www.suzukiconversion.com  

Ok, sorry to thread jack then....

how easy is it to drop in a 2.0?  I'd actually love to do this on my 1995 2-door.

I know a couple guys who dropped 2.0 in thier sidekick and tracker.  So, its not as hard as you think.  the only thing that would seem like alot of task is the wiring.  I saw the whole wire being taken out of a Vitara.  Jesus,  it weighted like 30 lbs.    Im sure there's something on this on www.pirate4x4.com

Im sure there's something on this on www.pirate4x4.com

and on here too.

On a 91, it's tougher to do a V6 than an upgraded 4cyl. It's been a while since I visited this area of thought, but.

The 1.6L and 1.8L used the same head. If the 2.0 used the same head, THEN you can just swap in the engine Cover to Cover, leaving the exhaust and intake from the 1.6L in there, bolt them on and your good to go. You won't get ALL the power of the 2.0 as it used Multi injetors, however you'll have a Throttle body 2.0... Someone correct me if I'm wrong here PLEASE.

OR and most likely easier even...

Get a head gasket from your local parts store for both the 1.6L and 2.0L. Make sure there identical, I'm thinking the 2.0 used a larger bore so probably not. If they are, then just swap over the block... However something tells me the 2.0L was DOHC and your 1.6L is SOHC so this may in fact be harder...

There there is Trail Tough's conversion... Basically you'll splice in your single injectors wiring to the 2.0L's 4 injectors (one pulse makes all 4 open-this is normal for non-sequential fuel injection). Everything else from your 1.6L wiring wise will need to be used including the Air-Flow meter and o2 hookups...

Still without actually comparing them side by side (best way to do this BTW) It's tough to tell what to keep, what to not, and what to splice and tap.

All things considered, if it were me I'd get the entire 2.0L drivetrain including the t-case and swap all that in. Nah, I'd just buy a 2.0L trackicker and be done.

V6? a 90* V6 like a Vortec will need a large shoehorn. It's possible but it will be tighter than you want it to be and require custom headers. The 60* V6's, 2.8L/3.1L/3.4L would be an easier fit however mating to the tranny wouldn't be easy. If your running an Auto then you already have a GM tranny, TH180 I beleive.

Just keep in mind the more power you send down the pipe the more things needed upgraded down the pipe. I ran with a V6 (4.3L) sami once, it broke the intermediate shaft 20mins into the trail... And we were not on anything hard yet.

The 1.6L is lonely with it's 90hp. But gearing makes a world of difference in those squirrels than power does. Cat back, snorkel, headers, and gear it right. 

THEN you can just swap in the engine Cover to Cover, leaving the exhaust and intake from the 1.6L in there, bolt them on and your good to go. You won't get ALL the power of the 2.0 as it used Multi injetors, however you'll have a Throttle body 2.0... Someone correct me if I'm wrong here PLEASE.

There there is Trail Tough's conversion... Basically you'll splice in your single injectors wiring to the 2.0L's 4 injectors (one pulse makes all 4 open-this is normal for non-sequential fuel injection). Everything else from your 1.6L wiring wise will need to be used including the Air-Flow meter and o2 hookups...

I don't think that the stock ECU will cope with the 2ltr as the torque curves are too different.

I thought that TTs conversion used the 2ltr ECU and wiring spliced into the stock loom.

My memory has returned, the 2ltr swap was done by Sean at Aftermarket 4x4. He has documented the swap pretty well:

http://members.cox.net/aftermarket4x4/2litertracker.html

The ECU will work, however the injectors will need to be upgraded to handle the increase in air.

ECU basically trys to keep the air/fuel ratio at 14.7:1 using all the sensors available. That's the basics of FI. Making sure those sensors are in the correct range for the ECU is important though, which is why it's easier to swap over the engine, sensors, ecu, harness from the donor.

When I helped do a V8 swap into an S10, I did the FI setup. Used a FI system from an early 80's camaro since we didn't have a donor setup (crate engine). It was TBI, but we upgraded the injectors so the would operate in the 60% range most of the time, taped in the sensors and made a intake manifold adapter from a carb manifold to the TBI (way easier than it sounds). The only PITA was the speed sensor.

Newer FI systems are far more rebust and complex, but essentially they try to keep the Air/Fuel ratio at factory spec (14.7:1).

The ECU will work, however the injectors will need to be upgraded to handle the increase in air.

ECU basically trys to keep the air/fuel ratio at 14.7:1 using all the sensors available. That's the basics of FI. Making sure those sensors are in the correct range for the ECU is important though, which is why it's easier to swap over the engine, sensors, ecu, harness from the donor.

When I helped do a V8 swap into an S10, I did the FI setup. Used a FI system from an early 80's camaro since we didn't have a donor setup (crate engine). It was TBI, but we upgraded the injectors so the would operate in the 60% range most of the time, taped in the sensors and made a intake manifold adapter from a carb manifold to the TBI (way easier than it sounds). The only PITA was the speed sensor.

Newer FI systems are far more rebust and complex, but essentially they try to keep the Air/Fuel ratio at factory spec (14.7:1).

You will struggle trying to use an 8V EFI on a Zuk. The 8V is a MAP based system, it calculates the fuelling based on a table of the Volumetric Efficiency of the engine. The ECU will measure the AFR during closed loop operation and attempt to correct. During open loop it will rely on values calculated in closed loop to maintain the correct AFR based on a table of AFR target values. Its a common misconception that the ECU always tries to maintain 14.7:1 (Lambda). Lambda is the point at which the exhaust emissions are at their lowest value and is cat friendly. The ECU will vary the AFR some way either side of that point depending on the actual fuel requirement. AFAIK there are only 3 fuel trim values. The VE is very close to the to torque curve, if the torque curve does not follow the original then the ECU will not be able to correct the open loop fuelling.
If you have MAF based system (like a 16V Zuk), which operates on measuerd airflow then it should cope better.