OK, I have a 2" spacer in the front of my trackick. The spacer itself measures 2", so it's over 2" of lift. I have these camber bolts installed: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33581&item=2428584099&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

They aren't enough to get my tires back to where they are supposed to be.  So, I thought about cutting the 1st coil wrap off the bottom of the coils.

What do ya'll think?

Second question.  I need spacers made for both the front strut and the rear upper Y-link. For the balljoint that attaches to the upper part of the third member. I'm going to use the 2.25" header flanges and a 2" long piece of pipe for the front.  What should I use in the rear???

Thanks!

OK, I have a 2" spacer in the front of my trackick. The spacer itself measures 2", so it's over 2" of lift. I have these camber bolts installed: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33581&item=2428584099&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

They aren't enough to get my tires back to where they are supposed to be.  So, I thought about cutting the 1st coil wrap off the bottom of the coils.

What do ya'll think?

Second question.  I need spacers made for both the front strut and the rear upper Y-link. For the balljoint that attaches to the upper part of the third member. I'm going to use the 2.25" header flanges and a 2" long piece of pipe for the front.  What should I use in the rear???

Thanks!

Personally, I think I'd put a smaller spacer in there before I cut the spring.

BTW, when I browsed to the eBay link you provided, my Firewall told me that the page attempted to execute a HTTP_ActivePerl_Overflow attack.

When you add a 2" spacer in front
you lifted the front 3" so you could
take some of the spacer out or make
a 2.75" to 3.0" Max and I mean Max
at 3", then it will all work, don't flip the
strut mount with this much lift, you will
destroy the CVs for sure

The back make an offset axle rotating spacer,
there is a pic in the post making the rear of a kick
move, or some other similar title

I use a 3/8" plate same width as the balljoint
on the top of the rear Y arm and and twice as long
this rotates the axle and improves driveshaft angles

You may run into some shock body to axle
interfierence, but it should not be too much

Check it out before you get too deep
into these mods.

Good Luck
Wild

When you add a 2" spacer in front
you lifted the front 3" so you could
take some of the spacer out or make
a 2.75" to 3.0" Max and I mean Max
at 3", then it will all work, don't flip the
strut mount with this much lift, you will
destroy the CVs for sure

The back make an offset axle rotating spacer,
there is a pic in the post making the rear of a kick
move, or some other similar title

I use a 3/8" plate same width as the balljoint
on the top of the rear Y arm and and twice as long
this rotates the axle and improves driveshaft angles

You may run into some shock body to axle
interfierence, but it should not be too much

Check it out before you get too deep
into these mods.

Good Luck
Wild

OK, so a 2" spacer = 3" lift. so I should chop what, a 1/2" off that top off the spacers in the front?? 3/4" of an inch?

Not sure what you meant when you went on about the 2.75" or 3" stuff. You talkin about the strut spacer? I'm making the strut spacer a hair over 2" tall, and the strut mount will not be flipped.

As far as the spacer for the rear balljoint, well, I just didn't really get WTF you where talkin about!! What I got out of is was, use 3/8 plate to make a mount as wide as the mounting point for the part that connects to the axle.  What do you mean by twice as long? As far as the offset is concerned, you are talking about moving the where the balljoint mounts further toward the front of the trucklet, compared to it's stock location. That pushes the top of the axle back, rotating the housing up. Right?

As far as the pic goes, I have no idea what you are talking about!!!

 
I know but I was too tired to post all the stuff to
go with it, and I knew you would ask if you were
interested  

As far as the spring spacer, 1" = 1.5 lift
1/2" would be 3/4"  lift  so you can decide
where you want the lift to stop, this is on
stock wheels, if you get wider wheels the
springs are too soft and will droop a little.

Yes I was talking about the strut spacer,
and if you are going a little over 2" it should
be fine. As a side note, when you cut a spring
it increases the rate of the spring, but it would
also be shorter, shorter and stiffer.

As far as the rear spacer, yes you got the idea,
I'll post a pic so you can see my greasy mess  



Enjoy,
Wild

I know but I was too tired to post all the stuff to
go with it, and I knew you would ask if you were
interested  

As far as the spring spacer, 1" = 1.5 lift
1/2" would be 3/4"  lift  so you can decide
where you want the lift to stop, this is on
stock wheels, if you get wider wheels the
springs are too soft and will droop a little.

Yes I was talking about the strut spacer,
and if you are going a little over 2" it should
be fine. As a side note, when you cut a spring
it increases the rate of the spring, but it would
also be shorter, shorter and stiffer.

As far as the rear spacer, yes you got the idea,
I'll post a pic so you can see my greasy mess  



Enjoy,
Wild

Many a time I have not posted cause it was tool ate or I was too tired!! Where I am right now as far as the strut goes, I have about 1-1.5" of stroke left in it before it bottoms out! I don't feel like ripping the strut apart, so I'm going with a spacer! Thanks for the info on the spring, save me some headache!
I like the pic of the balljoint spacer, my buddy who's gonna build it for me can easily mimic that. Thanks!

I have toyed with the idea of a long stroke
strut to replace the stock units, the only other
strut I know of that is longer is the Old Man Emu
struts, so I went with a spacer too, I built
mine 3" in front and the CV balls rode on the
wire clip that holds the CV all together.
After I did the Hagen A-arm re-location I don't
have any problems since I modified the the CV
cup on the right side and use a 1" spacer on the
left side of the half shafts.

I'm happy with the way it performs off road and
even to this day it surprises me where I can go

Working on a long travel A-arm setup now, going
to be $$ so it might be a while before I get it going

Wild

.....snip.....Working on a long travel A-arm setup now, going
to be $$ so it might be a while before I get it going

Wild

Are you looking for custom length arms or using a set of arms from another vehicle?

I'm building longer (wider) A-arms
and moving the front wheel forward
for better approach angles and clearance
for bigger tires without moving the floor
back.

It should be 4" wider overall and 2" forward
from the stock wheel location.

The problem is I have yet to decide on the
shock and upper control design, I'd like to
do an upper control link A-arm and use long
travel coilover shocks (2 per side) but that is
about $600 in shocks and springs, would be
total awsome to do tho, easy clearance for
35s and might even clear 36s if I can get the
rear setup working so they will fit back there

The real benifit of this is to gain 2-3 more inches
of front travel for a total of 6 or so inches of
suspension lift alone,  plus the 4" body lift.

I need to move the rear axle abvout 1-1/2"
back and move the tank up for a custom skid
plate and high clearance bumper with rock
skids built into the corners

Then replace the fuel tank with a 15 Gal 4 door
unit and gain some additional range, range with
the turbo on 33" Bias Swampers is right at 200
on the highway, which is a little too often for my
likeing.

Interesting

Wild

I have toyed with the idea of a long stroke
strut to replace the stock units, the only other
strut I know of that is longer is the Old Man Emu
struts, so I went with a spacer too, I built
mine 3" in front and the CV balls rode on the
wire clip that holds the CV all together.
After I did the Hagen A-arm re-location I don't
have any problems since I modified the the CV
cup on the right side and use a 1" spacer on the
left side of the half shafts.

I'm happy with the way it performs off road and
even to this day it surprises me where I can go

Working on a long travel A-arm setup now, going
to be $$ so it might be a while before I get it going

Wild

Too complicated!! This is all for the interm, I'm going SAS some day!

Too Complicated  
You should have seen the turbo instalation  

That my Zuki friend is the difference between
Totally Trick and just another Calmini 3+3 setup

I'm beyond the 3+3 I'm going for 6" in the front
and some bigger than 35" tires   but that's me,
I just can't leave well enough alone

Wild

Too Complicated  
You should have seen the turbo instalation  

That my Zuki friend is the difference between
Totally Trick and just another Calmini 3+3 setup

I'm beyond the 3+3 I'm going for 6" in the front
and some bigger than 35" tires   but that's me,
I just can't leave well enough alone

Wild

You mean the 3+3 isn't unique? DAMNIT and i thought i was gonna stand out. LOL too bad i can't afford to do cool stuff like turbo's and such. Oh well....

Not exactly what I meant, you will stick out,
to the community around you, but I will stick
out in a crowd of 3+3s at Zukefari  

Wild

Not exactly what I meant, you will stick out,
to the community around you, but I will stick
out in a crowd of 3+3s at Zukefari  

Wild

Screw bolt on crap! I did the whole big dollar mile high lift and that was just STUPID. Whether it works or not, who cares. What I'm doing will work fine, and be a great wheeler. That's all I care about.

BTW, I cut out about  1/2" in the spacer, and it rides better, and looks like it'll align ok, or at least close! Just need to do the strut tower in the front and get  back some travel in the front. It has about 1" of downtravel now, so its about undrivable!!