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Front spacer tips

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Offline SnoFalls

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Front spacer tips
« on: November 18, 2004, 03:05:32 AM »
Hi all,

I'm doing my front spacers this weekend and was looking for some tips regarding the install.

I've got the wheels off, calipers hung outta the way, and rotors off.

Probably disconnect the stablizer and tierod  tonight.

Book talks about pulling the hubs, ball joint castle, and knuckle hub assembly while dropping the arm. I also thought I read someplace that the arm will droop enough without disconnecting the knuckle/ball. Not sure which is the "best" way to go ...

One more thing ... I haven't relocated the brake line on the LH front yet. is that just a matter of drilling a new hole 2-3" lower and moving the place the line passes through the body? Would longer brakes lines be an alternative? (pros/cons either way)?

Would appreciate any tips from the experienced here.

TIA

Rob
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy it.

Buy-it, Build-it, Beat-it, Part-it

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Offline Cwkick

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2004, 03:18:37 AM »
No you don't need to pull all that stuff apart. Do remove the swaybar.
1. Support the frame with jack stands.
2. Put a floor jack under the a-arm and lift it to take the pressure off of the coil spring.
3. Undo the three nuts and bolts holding the lower ball joint to the a-arm.
4. Pull the knuckle out of the a-arm.
5. Lower the floor jack, slowly!
6. Spring is now in your hand.

Cwkick

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Offline SnoFalls

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2004, 03:34:40 AM »
cool sounds like I can leave the tierod on too

thx
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy it.

Buy-it, Build-it, Beat-it, Part-it

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Offline Cwkick

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2004, 04:46:38 AM »
Yes,  they are very flexible.  If you leave the strut attached to the knuckle, you won't have to support it either.  It will just hang.

If you do have some trouble,  you can disconnect the strut from the knuckle.  You will have to support the knuckle, but the thing will move just about anywhere.

Cwkick

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Offline Digger

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2004, 07:30:20 AM »
When I did mine, I jacked up the trucklet and put it on jackstands at the frame. Then I removed the front wheels, disconnected the tie rods and the sway bar links and removed the top strut nut(with the A-arm supported by a jack). That gave me enough room to remove my springs and insert the spacers. I also did the strut mount flip while I was at it...
Had a cool sig pic till I changed the text... sigh...
90 Tracker: "Silver", 2" BL, 1-1/2" Coil Spacers, Strut mount flip, Calmini Header, Winch, 31" Swamper radials, Sold.
98 Suzuki X-90: Calmini 2" Sus, 1-1/4" whl spcrs, 2" Exhaust, Cobra Safari Bar, Neon, Sold.
96 Suzuki X-90: Mostly stock daily driver(for now)

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Offline Cwkick

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2004, 07:31:51 AM »
OOPS!

Forgot the strut mount flip!  :-[

Cwkick

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SpinalTap

Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2004, 08:38:40 AM »
A set of spring compressors will save you some grief as well ;)

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Offline jerryp58

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #7 on: November 18, 2004, 08:43:08 AM »
How are these springs as far as "popping" out at you?

I know I've heard the saftey tip of chaining the spring to the suspension before dropping the arm so that it won't go flying.  Does that apply to these things?
Jerry
1990 Geo Tracker,  2-Door Hard Top
1.6L 8v, 4x4 Automatic, 0" lift

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Offline Cwkick

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #8 on: November 18, 2004, 09:55:13 AM »
With a floor jack, mine came out very slowly and safely.

I didn't use spring compressors.  I'm not sure how you would fit them in there.  ???

Cwkick

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Offline TN_Tracker

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2004, 10:06:33 AM »
I've used a spring compressor twice, on mine and my brother's, it really moves the job along quickly on the front. You don't need it to remove the spring, just to install it back with the spacer. We rented the two piece set at Autozone. Some don't use them but if used correctly it makes the job easier IMHO. Careful placement of the compressor is key.

I'm a Proud Member of Team BlueRibbon Coalition & Tread Lightly, are you?

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Offline SnoFalls

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #10 on: November 18, 2004, 10:20:26 AM »
renting spring compressors from a parts shop is something I'll think about ...

I'm goin to flip the strut mount, and I'm nearly to the point of just droppin the A anyway, so probably not going to get compressors now ...

Something I will DEFINETLY do if I decide to replace the RRO spacers with 2" versions.
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy it.

Buy-it, Build-it, Beat-it, Part-it

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Offline SnoFalls

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #11 on: November 18, 2004, 02:02:33 PM »
bummer ...

got the stab. bar disconnected, jacked the A, unbolted the strut, lowered the A, and the spring is loose, but it aint coming out. Even if it came out, I doubt I get it back in with the spacer.

I think the tierod might be hitting the stab. bar, so sat. morning, I'll disconnect the tierod, and if that doesn't doit, I'll try a set of spring compressors.
I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy it.

Buy-it, Build-it, Beat-it, Part-it

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Offline HotRod

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95 2dr Geo Tracker with Calmini 6"inch combo lift, 32'inch BFGs M/Tlocked and loaded--D.D is my 06 Racy RED Aerio SX AWD

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Offline whitfield

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #13 on: November 18, 2004, 10:49:11 PM »
I usually just pull the wheel place the jack under the lower arm and cut the 3 upper strut mount bolts loose.  I have often changes out a few sets in an hr this way back when I was dialing in the 4-dr.   Truck will need to be realigned (but you knew that).

Once the 3 nuts are loose just lower the jack with the frame supported on jack stands.  I left everything else hanging.  The CV's maxed and in a few cases the inner pass side pulled out of the diff.  Just keep an eye on them and be careful.  I was prying in some extra large springs with no spring compresser.  
Old Dog looking to learn some new tricks. 


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Offline Cwkick

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Re: Front spacer tips
« Reply #14 on: November 19, 2004, 01:59:00 AM »
It doesn't sound like you undid the three bolts holding the lower ball joint to the a-arm.  Once you do that the knuckle isn't part of the equation.  You are just working with the a-arm and the spring.

Cwkick