Reading the post below in the (OME or Calmini lift thread) made me think that the info on the Brazilian site info could be of use here.

I thought I would post up some info as to how I made my rear gain flex & travel.  Hope this will open some discussion and place the necessary info in an easily to search place.

Originally I installed 4dr Grand Vitara rear coils.  Not much change.

Then I heard about installing Jeep Cherokee front coils in the rear.  
I Bought a set and attempted to plug them in.  I was forcing the rear down with a 10 foot pipe when I popped the upper 3-link ball joint out of socket.  

The rear diff mount needs a spacer to  run the Cherokee coils.  

Here are the specs of the mounting surface of the spacer.



I made my Rear diff spacer to raise the upper Link mount 3" and to move the link mount forward 2" (Moving top of the diff back 2")   All 8 corners are gusseted with welded in triangle shaped braces.  This link and bracket take enormous amounts of stress.

Here are 3 pics is of the Rear upper Third link bracket I made.

The bracket is a 3" vertical spacer and sets the top of the axle back 2" horizontal.  







I needed the extra room to clear the rear doors on my 4-dr.
I then lengthened the lower links 1".

You can also just space the link without setting it toward the rear (Centered mount)
as was done on the site http://www.cabrito.suzukioffroad.com

Translation on the (Brazilian site)?  Reads...

With lift of 2" of suspension, the pivot of the back differential of vitara is with an angle of work very strangled, damaging the lodging of the pivot and creating recess. Below it follows the drawing for chock confection to correct the problem. Only for Vitaras or Sidekicks with 2" of lift of suspension. For lift lesser to only keep the measures reducing the height of the chock for the same one of lift used. Material: Steel Carbon, Aluminum or Nylon 3 Screws of 10mm x 75mm 8,8 steel 1 Screw 10mm x 65mm steel 8,8 (one of threads in the differential does not have passing puncture) 4 Washers of pressure Web Disaster: Rafael ReisCaso you knows some another tip and wants to collaborate,








Basicly:  Overcoming the short range of motion of the upper link is key to getting jeep coils under the rear of a kick.  I am now running a set of stock TJ coils.  The TJ coils are soft, but they work very well offroad.

I see something of concern with this. I think the design is good but the material is too thin. I would recomend using 1/4 inch for that piece. If that part breaks you will lose your driveshaft, brakes, coils, and if it happens in an already dangerous situation such as a steep uphill climb... someone could get hurt.

I would recomend overbuilding that piece.

Mike

I would recomend overbuilding that piece.

Mike

Me too but I think it is overbuilt allready, look at it, it seems to be 3 to 4 mm's thick (don't know how much " that is  ) and that can hold "the force" my friend but I agree with overbuilding  
maybe we should go over to the dark side and build it of 1/5" thick steel  
When I bought my body-lift of 3" (little more) and said I wanted boxed tubing of 5mm's thick they asked me what I wanted to do with it, lift a 40 ton truck off the ground  . I think that's overbuilding-overbuilding allready  
But indeed as you say, when it breaks........................................................... I don't want to be around.

I agree it needs to be over built, That was why I had the 8 triangulated braces welded into all the corners.  I'll check again on the steel thickness, I believe it is currently 3/16.  For a small wrectangular spacer this thing does have some weight as it is.  Made from 1/4" steel would be massive        

But as you mention, failure would be catostrophic.  

I use 3/8" plate and .250 wall
tubing to make my spacers, they
also have an offset to rotate the
axle to better align the driveshaft

Wild