If they dont come out with the impact driver they were destined to stay or meet Mr. ViceGrip!!!  I also had to heat a couple of those bolts to get the factory locking compound to give!!  Fire is a smidge harsh on the paint though!!

If they dont come out with the impact driver they were destined to stay or meet Mr. ViceGrip!!!  I also had to heat a couple of those bolts to get the factory locking compound to give!!  Fire is a smidge harsh on the paint though!!

I forgot about the vice grips. They can be hard on the paint too. Of course you need just the right pair of vice grips with the right bite. Cheap or worn ones will slip right off.

-Adam

I used a bolt bitter by irwin and it gripped it just enought to get a couple loose, I do not know how it did it but whatever. Im about to grind the heads off and try the vise grip thing.

It looks like you are going to be fighting rust also. Try taking a punch and setting it square in the cross of the philips head and smacking it a couple of times really good with a heavy hammer. The shock of the blows will help loosen the crud around the threads of the screw. And I still recommend the prick punch method, if they get stubborn use a chisel at an angle.

The first time I tried to remove those screws I the impact driver which just stripped the bit index. I almost got drastic and welded nuts to the heads to remove them until I tried the punch method. But I was trying to save the stock screws. If you are planning on just using bolts, try the weld on nut method.

Take a nut and weld it to the head of the screw from the inside of the nut, then just grab a socket that fit's the nut and a breaker bar and them screws will come out as you have added enough heat from the welding to help loosen them and can now get enough torque from the nut to trun them. And the welding method causes less damage than grinding and just using heat from a cutting torch.

   I completely agree with welding a nut on them and turning them out with a wrench or ratchet.The heat might also help loosen the thread lock compound,and if done properly should not harm the surrounding paint.

If your doors are well aligned and your going to cut the hinges for quick removal you can just carefully grind the heads off on the body portion, cut your hinges then slide the half over the now studs sticking out of your fender and weld the hinge to the studs. smooth it add and a shot of paint voila! Trick looking hinge and quick release doors.

You could also do this to the door end as well so you have that " No bolt look"

I'm doubting you have access to a welder. Just try to to salvage the hinges and get some new screws or something to reinstall the hinges. Use some blue med strength lock tite (at least) so they don't vibrate back off. If you end up making the hinges a permanent fixture to the body, take the necessary precautions to prevent rust. I would be afraid to make it permanent because if they do rust, you want to be able to get them off and replace them.

I have a tin top and was thinking about making my doors removable. Makes it easy for a big guy like me to work under the dash and I think it would look cool for the summer.

-Adam

You really do not need to add any loc-tite, it will just make removal a bitch all over again the next time. The screws are not in a vibration prone area. I have removed my door hinge screws many times and they tend to take a set as compared to getting loose.

You really do not need to add any loc-tite, it will just make removal a bitch all over again the next time. The screws are not in a vibration prone area. I have removed my door hinge screws many times and they tend to take a set as compared to getting loose.

I thought the whole Samurai was a vibration area. Suzuki put them on with a impact driver didn't they?  Just like the door catch?  And the bar that goes across the inside of the roof on the tin-tops? I could be wrong but there sure are alot of screws (and bolts) on these Suzukis that require impact tools to remove.

-Adam

I originally removed my first set with a hammer and punch. For years after that I removed, and installed them with an impact screwdriver and they had never come loose or create vibrations.

I only recently cut my hinges on my latest Sammy just to quicken the whole process.

If you want to stick with bolts, take one of the ones you could salvage to a Fasteners retailer and get them to match the depth and thread count with a stainless Alen head bolt and keep the key in your glove box! They work well, wont strip or rust and they look cool too!

I'm doubting you have access to a welder. Just try to to salvage the hinges and get some new screws or something to reinstall the hinges. Use some blue med strength lock tite (at least) so they don't vibrate back off. If you end up making the hinges a permanent fixture to the body, take the necessary precautions to prevent rust. I would be afraid to make it permanent because if they do rust, you want to be able to get them off and replace them.

I have a tin top and was thinking about making my doors removable. Makes it easy for a big guy like me to work under the dash and I think it would look cool for the summer.

-Adam

I work ina  body shop. I am one fo 2 painters, although i paint i have knowledge in the other parts of the field. A welder is an easy thing to get ahold fo for me

I thought the whole Samurai was a vibration area.

-Adam

The Sammy is not a vibration area unless you have something wrong.

It's more of a bumpy, bouncy, kidney jarring ride.


Sean,

As you have stated that you work in a body shop, use the welded nut method. You have access too the tools to do this.

And the tools to fix the ooops's.