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Hi ...i have recently purchased a Weber 32/36 carb to install on my 1985 samurai

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samurai dan

with all the excess hoses and such i am stumped on what stays and what goes... any help?


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samurai dan

and also ...this is going to be a dd/ fixer upper for some time ...i cant get it to pass emissions here in az... i am hoping the carb will help.. but if not .. any other ideas? this is an original engine with over 250,000 mi on it


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sanjuansheriff

Dan,
I was in the same boat as you  a few months ago. Did you buy a new Weber for a samurai? Or was it from another type of vehicle? I don't think installing a Weber will help passing a smog test... most guys I've heard  use a stock carburetor (Hitachi) for the test then switch back to the 32/36 for roaring around.

My Hitachi gave up the ghost at 174,000 miles so I bought the 32/36 as it was less money and gave the Samurai a lot of extra zip.

When I did do the transplant I was very intimidated and very hesitant to begin. I ask a few questions here which gave me the courage to just jump in and start pulling vacuum hoses, disconnecting wires and removing nuts and bolts. I think it will all make sense once you take a deep breath and jump in.

Dennis

PS... You could always read the paper work supplied with it by Weber.

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Offline ack

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    • Ack's FAQ
If you did not get any documentation with your Weber carburetor, go to Ack's FAQ and do a search for weber.  There you will find lots of documentation on the Weber DGxx 32/36.

You only need one vacuum hose to make the weber work with your engine - the vacuum advance for the distributor.  When you remove all the hoses from the intake manifoild (the vacuum advance port is on the carburetor itself) you will need to plug all the vacuum ports.

As for the electrics, simply disconnect and seal off each connector to prevent electrical shorts from occuring.  Tie the connectors up out of the way so they won't be damaged or cause damage.   

If you want to play it safe, find an intake manifold and permanently plug all the vacuum ports.  While you are at it, cut the center section out of the air/fuel intake port and smooth down the edges to get better airflow from the carburetor to the intake plenum.  Use this for the Weber and the old intake for when you want to switch back to the Hitachi carb for emissions tests.


Finally, before you totally give up on the Hitachi, check out these pages at Ack's FAQ:

http://www.acksfaq.com/Samvacuumlines.php

and

http://www.zuwharrie.com/component/option,com_smf/Itemid,40/topic,21551 
(unfortuantely the pics are missing at the top but the information is good)

Maybe you can ge the hitachi running well enough for it to pass emissions inspection then remove it for the weber.

Note that there are other alternatives to the weber carb these days - each with it's advantages and disadvantages.  try the search engines on the forums and use the search word carb or carburetor.
Ack

'88 Samurai, '88.5 Samurai TT, '11 Ford Transit Connect XLT
Ack's FAQ  http://www.acksfaq.com

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samurai dan

Thanks ack.... I am gonna give it a whirl....good info.

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phloop

And you do not really need to seal the electrical connectors. I have had a Weber on my rig for close too ten years and I have not had an issue from them just being disconnected.

I have had more problems with the Weber itself here in the last few years as it is out of tune.

And I have a cure for the out of tune Weber, I think I will just swap a 16v in and go FI.

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Indy

Do you need to modify the throttle cable/any extra parts needed for the throttle, or does it just reattach like stock?

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sanjuansheriff

Indy,
If you buy a Weber kit for the Samurai it will have all the needed parts. It comes with a new cable bracket that attaches to the carb....your stock cable will just be rerouted.

Hope this helps,
Dennis

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rascott

the stock throttle cable can be re-routed (as per sanjuansheriff).
mine appeared to be worn and i was experiencing some drag so that the throttle would not always return to full idle.
i have "fixed" this w/a return spring, but it has bugged me ever since.
this seems to be standard japanese carb. method and there must be a shorter cable for some other vehicle that would fit?
i'm gonna scrounge thru some wrecking yards to see what i can find.
mabe somebody has done this already?

i'm very pleased w/weber. had to re-jet it. i also have the smog problem so i'll have to put the stock on to pass.

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sanjuansheriff

Rascott,

I also had to put a return spring on my Weber to help it along back to idle.... it bugs me also. Other than that it has been working pretty good for me. I know what you mean about the old cable being longer than necessary and the possibility of causing drag. Let us know what you find out.

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Indy

Hmmm, I was looking at an ebay install kit as I already have a weber sitting around.  I don't seen any kind of throttle cable bracket, so I may have to look elsewhere for parts.




*edit*

Looks like the same guy is selling this


which looks fairly complete.  $85+s/h sound right for the parts?
« Last Edit: January 25, 2008, 10:45:10 AM by Indy »

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rascott

that second photo has the cable bracket.
lower right.
i bought the air filter adapter so i could use my stock filter housing.
turns out my stock filter is some odd thing only used once(probably only my kick) but it works ok.
i have since found some chevy air cleaner element that fits, as no parts store has a proper replacement.

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samurai dan

just installed the weber.....huge power difference... thanks for all the info.... definately helpful... good suggestion on adding the throttle return spring... found that the throttle stuck open periodically.. Definately recommend this carb for others looking for a bit more hp....

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sanjuansheriff

Samurai Dan,
I just attempted to answer your personal email but I must of pushed the wrong key as it all went away. Anyway I am happy you are up and running..... It's kinda like having a brand new vehicle Isn't it... well almost.

Drive safe,
Dennis

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Offline rascott

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samurai dan
sanjuansheriff
i've been playing w/my weber install/function.
i have now mounted it "backwards"(float bowl to firewall) as a fix for flooding issues on steep climb(had either of you experienced this?).
it was actually kind of a fun mod. and made sense and i expect good fishing this season.
interesting- that now the stock cable is perfect. i have stopped looking for shorter one.
also interesting- i no longer need an added return spring.
performance/response is far superior to stock and i am pleased with it.
learning all the time.
someday i'll look into the transmission(dennis).
richard
'89 kick w/little motor, still got pieces of jeff's pucks, stan's sticks into 4.24:1 tcase, 31x10.5x15's, rear lockrite, kick power steering, some radios(kj6esv), bmw seat, other changes just because. done on the cheap.
suzi the psychic gets me fishing.