Is there an early 90's tracker that DOESN'T have an exhaust leak?!

Thought I had it fixed, just find out I fixed the wrong leak  Coming back out tomorrow to weld the flange, and I just might cut the whole damn thing off before the cat and start over.

ARGH!!  :'(

Also, it backfires when I downshift, any clue why it's doing that?? Timing off?

mine does that too...... when you find out let me know.

timing is a good place to start....  chances are, that is the prob with the back-firing.... throw a timing light on it, i'm not sure where the timing is supposed to be set at....  check a manual and give 'er a go...

Timing is 8 degrees BDC on a 90 Kick. Electrical loads off. Back fireing on downshift is caused by lack of back pressure, ie exhaust leak. I fought with my exhuast for way too long, bought some headerrs and had a whole new set up bent up form me. That seems to be the only option buy it right the first time and don't worry about it after that. Also I had no flex pipe in place so the motor vibrations and torque would cause the exhaust to crack and leak, make sure you have one.

Do it right and do not use any flex pipe. Use exhaust hangers to mount the exhaust. The only place the exhaust should be hard mounted is at the head, the rest needs to be isolated with rubber to allow movement.

Thanks for the tips guys. About to go tear it apart and weld that stupid flange shut. I'm eventually going to have to drop the $$ and get a header and all new exhaust. I just got it yesterday and am making it drivable, not completely right. Cheaper to half ass it right now to get it on the road. I'll drop the money later....

besides, I have a lift and 235's to save for 

Timing is 8 degrees BDC on a 90 Kick. Electrical loads off. Back fireing on downshift is caused by lack of back pressure, ie exhaust leak. I fought with my exhuast for way too long, bought some headerrs and had a whole new set up bent up form me. That seems to be the only option buy it right the first time and don't worry about it after that. Also I had no flex pipe in place so the motor vibrations and torque would cause the exhaust to crack and leak, make sure you have one.

Can I set the timing without a timing light, or am I going to need one? I have the manual to walk me through setting it, so that's set.

94 Tracker. Cancer mod :p Otherwise stock........ hey chief what does that mean?

Your exhaust leak could be causing your backfire! I know it sounds funny but I have seen it before!

Do it right and do not use any flex pipe. Use exhaust hangers to mount the exhaust. The only place the exhaust should be hard mounted is at the head, the rest needs to be isolated with rubber to allow movement.

I personally don't see anything wrong with using flexpipe. If  it's not right why do they use it from factory? It dose the same as rubber hangers. Isolates it from movement.

94 Tracker. Cancer mod :p Otherwise stock........ hey chief what does that mean?

Strategic and/or artistic application of rust to otherwise stock components; Organic or free-range speed holes.

A mechanic told me that the heat shield on the exhaust manifold on a lot of vehicles causes the manifold to crack. Never did on my Samurai though. I agree that an exhaust leak could cause a backfire.

What I did on my Samurai is bought a header and installed it (advise from zukiworld members ) and drove to the exhaust shop and had a thunderbolt cat and magnaflow muffler put on. You get a nice clean job this way. My only regret is I should have gone with a stock muffler for quietness since the magnaflow is loud at higher rpms.

 I think the exhaust without the header was around $250.00 or 300.00 out the door and only took 30 minutes. You also have the option of reselling your stock cat for cash to recoup some. The header was around $225.00.

Pricey but something had to be done.

-Adam

A mechanic told me that the heat shield on the exhaust manifold on a lot of vehicles causes the manifold to crack. Never did on my Samurai though. I agree that an exhaust leak could cause a backfire.

What I did on my Samurai is bought a header and installed it (advise from zukiworld members ) and drove to the exhaust shop and had a thunderbolt cat and magnaflow muffler put on. You get a nice clean job this way. My only regret is I should have gone with a stock muffler for quietness since the magnaflow is loud at higher rpms.

 I think the exhaust without the header was around $250.00 or 300.00 out the door and only took 30 minutes. You also have the option of reselling your stock cat for cash to recoup some. The header was around $225.00.

Pricey but something had to be done.

-Adam

Eventually....thorlay header at Summit Racing (20 mins from my house) for $200. I'll do the rest of the work back to the tail pipe. I've seen to many coddled jobs by muffler shops, and I can do it myself now!

Good tip on the cat, I can get some back for that. I didn't see any cracks in the manifold, my 94 had one, but the 91 is good.

Big Kountry: The cancer mod is ALOT ALOT ALOT of rust! 2 HUGE holes right behind the seats at the corners. Gonna need alot of sheetmetal this spring!

OK, welded the flange shut, patched it all up, and no backfire!!

But now I have a ticking from what I suspect MIGHT be a bad exhaust manifold gasket, BUT I did just find a loose bolt I missed when retorqueing the manifold, so that might do it. But she is running good, and the ecm is reprogramming nicely now that I have a good 02 sensor in it.

Now I just need a radio.

and a lift.

and 235's

and a header and 2" exhaust.

and better paint.

and the soft top back on it.

Never does end, does it. 

I personally don't see anything wrong with using flexpipe. If  it's not right why do they use it from factory? It dose the same as rubber hangers. Isolates it from movement.

Huh??

Flex pipe is not used as an OEM part accept for either heavy equipment or trucks and I do not mean pick-up's.