... Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't the actuator gear skipping under heavy load (as annoying as it might be) lessen the chances of breaking another component (like an axle)?  If so, that might be reason to consider keeping the air actuator.......food for thought.

If the skipping under heavy load is reliable, I think it would.  Anyway, as I said, I like my air diif, so I'm delighted you came up with that justification 

I converted my air diff on my '01 tracker.  Once the pump system stopped working I decided I wasn't going to put any money into it so I did the conversion.  I haven't had a problem with any of the "new" components.  Though I do kind of miss not having to get out of the car to lock the hubs - but the peace of mind knowing that 4wd will actually engage is worth it.

If the skipping under heavy load is reliable, I think it would.

Obviously, you haven't been into the stock air diff.  If you had, and seen its construction, skipping of gears is NOT a good thing by any means.  You'll evenutually strip the gear, and have nothing.  And like I said, it might be right when you need 4WD the most.

I switched to manual hubs and not a moment too late. I've broken the crappy aluminum from housing twice (1999 tracker). Both times I would have been stuck on the trail with auto hubs.
FYI, I'm doing a solid axle swap this summer consisting of chopping up and re building a rear grand vitara diff. I'm excited to try it out. I'm sure I'll be running photos and updates when I get started.

To remove or disable the air actuator and put Warn hubs or others (thinking Warn because they have available, I think, the hub protector which fits in so you can just change it instead of ruining entire hub) in the front. Maybe there is a thread to a post where someone has done it and explains it? If it looked like a half easy project, I would not be opposed to doing my 2000 2 door convertible Vitara. You'd be surprised how far they will go in just stock form. First thing I need is more clearance. Then I have to get a winch to be able to get out of trouble. Guessing next that I'd go with lockers of some kind or maybe armor to the bottom side. I really like how they work. Thanks, Gary.

I have a 2001 Vitara 2.0L. Just wondering if I could get a simple step-by-step walkthrough from the pros on how to switch from auto-locking hubs to manual hubs. I understand the hubs are a direct bolt-on, I just need to know the part about the air actuator. Do you just pull an air line off somewhere and plug it?

No, you have to open the unit and mechanically wedge the mechanism in the engaged position.  Someone did it with a plastic wire tie.

Do a search, it's on this board.

Ok, I did a search...and I also picked up a 5.13 front axle with third member from the wrecker this weekend...what would be the better, more reliable option...

a) Keep the Vitara axle and jam the actuator in the engaged position (still completely unsure of how this is accomplished...pics anywhere?), just swap the third members and put manual hubs on

b) Put the Sidekick axle in and use Sidekick CV's and manual hubs...no third member swapping required. It is a direct bolt-in, correct?

I also understand you can't use Sidekick CV's on Vitaras because the diff is offset 1". True or not true?

I would think that adding some sort of a solid machined steel ring and permanently engaging the gears would be a great solution.  Then you don't have to mess with creating hybrid CV shafts.  Then just swap the R&P.  Then again, machining or rigging a fix for the air actuator might be more complicated than switching in the 5.13 guts and creating hybrid CVs.  Your call, I guess....

Here are some things that might help you, as I'm getting ready to have my air actuator fixed:

 

Just so you know - creating the hybrid CV/axle shaft was surprisingly easy.  Don't be afraid of this part.  No special tools needed.  I got the donor shaft from Trail Tough - ask for Brent and he'll know exactly what you need to perform the swap.

You'll also want to pick up the inner axle shaft since it is a slightly different length, you'll need the 26 spline one from a '96-98.

you'll need the 26 spline one from a '96-98

Question is, does it HAVE to be a Japanese-built Sidekick? I already own a 1997 Sidekick that I can take parts off of, but it's not a Japanese one. The vin doesn't start with JS...

So far I haven't been able to find any solid reasoning as to why the Canadian units are unsuitable! It's really frustrating me!

Quote

you'll need the 26 spline one from a '96-98

Question is, does it HAVE to be a Japanese-built Sidekick? I already own a 1997 Sidekick that I can take parts off of, but it's not a Japanese one. The vin doesn't start with JS...

So far I haven't been able to find any solid reasoning as to why the Canadian units are unsuitable! It's really frustrating me!

I've been checking in the parts catalogue, and the front drive shafts for the 96-98 are different #s for Product of Japan and Product of Canada.  It is likely that Suzuki made some changes to the shafts, which they introduced on the 96-98 models in Japan, but not till 99 in Canada.  Maybe the mix-and-match only works with the new design parts?

You are on to it Ian.

The info I got on this that lead to the ZW write-up came from Steve Kramer at CALMINI.  Steve found out the hard way that there was a difference, and I made sure the write-up was specifc about what parts to use and not to use.

I've done the swap with the 1.8L and now problem (YET?).  I had trouble finding Japanesse parts, and could not find a reason to NOT use the Cami part.  It fits in fine and runs fine.  I've only taken it into the bush a few times, but all seems good.  I don't beat on her to much  , she is my DD.  I always check her under; no skid plate yet  , and no SOS (smoke,oil,sparkes).

I'll keep you updated if I ever do have trouble with the diffs that I have, but I think all's good (knock on wood).  It's nice to have more options.

I did goof up with the rear.  Put in the wrong year locker.  Took it to a transmission shop to fix and put back to free spool.  They mentioned that they had to do a little milling; something was just lightly touching something else, works fine.  The locker was kinda an impulse, kinda glad I don't have it with winter coming.  I live in a pretty snowy area, I don't want to lose traction going round a snow packed corner.