i have a carby 1.6L (G16A) in my vitara.
its all mechanical as in, carby, mechanical distributor and all that. and no electrics.

a few of the overseas versions came out with a sigle point injection system on the G16A's, can i do the conversion?

does the SPI still use existing components such as distributor (off cam) and sparks etc.

i know that the SPI comes with a computer and O2 sensors off the headers and stuff.

how hard is it to convert over? what will i need to change on my current motor? will i have to add sensors in?

if this is all ok, and quite easy and straight forward to do, i will look into it in more detail, as i can get a 4agze SuperCharger as well.

will this combo work, Supercharged SPI?

thanks for any help.
steve

just another thing, i have an 8 valve head.

What you need is the computer
and the intake manifold and TBI
unit, I think all the sensors are in
the intake manifold, coolant, air
etc.  Ohh and the wiring harness
would make the switch much easier

Wild

i can get a complete set up off another running engine. it comes with:

computer
wiring loom
inlet manifold (compete with all sensors)
extractors with a 3 wire o2 sensor fitted
and the dizzy to go with it.

not sure about fuel tank or fuel delivery? could i use my existing tank? or do i need a different one? going form low pressure fuel pump to high pressure fuel pump.

TBI??? whats that? (i'm australian)

has anyone had much experience with this swap, and who has a single point injection motor? are there many problems with them?

thanks again,
steve

TBI - throttle body injector?

Yes, get a running Trucklet and
swap parts, this would be the best way.

Well lets see, all 89' and up 8V motors
came with this system, TBI is this type of system,
it means Throttle Body Injection.

You will need the distributor, I think it
pulses the injector, or rather provides
the computer with a signal to do so.

Earlier EFI motors have 1 wire O2 sensors,
later ones had 3 wire ones (at least in the US)
3 wire has a heater in the sensor, that's all.

You will need a fuel pump with at least 36 PSI
capacity, and a return line to the tank, the fuel
pump is inside the tank, if you have a body lift,
you might be able to get the pump out of the
tank without dropping the fuel tank.

my view is why change and add all those eletrics for maybe another 10bhp.

when i blow my engine i bought a complete injection engine with everything to convert,
When i saw the wire loom ecu and all those sensors i slapped my carb on it and thought no way.

My main issue was its wet all year round here and i am often up to my doors in water the ecu sits above the pedals and i know of people that have killed them when they get stuck and flood out

You should get the speedo head as well as there is a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) located in there. EFI is a worthwile swap, it is far superior to a carb and works at any angle. Outright power is the same but midrange, pickup and economy should be better. take the ECU to a radio shop and get the board conformally coated that will waterproof it reasonably well. It probably won't run while underwater but it should dry out ok.

ok, it is to my understanding, that my vitara is putting out about 50 hp at rear wheels, may be a bit more (doubt it) or may be less (likely).

now if a 1.3 on gas and supercharged running at 8PSI has 110hp at rear wheels, should i reconsider?

it will end up costing me about $600AUD to convert to signle point injection, and another $400AUD for supercharger, computer, piping and what ever else i need.

OR

i can rebuild my motor and increase compression to about 11:1 ish, for almost the same amount of money. this is using a 1.3 head on the 1.6 block. also include slight head work. but still carby.

OR

i can rebuild my 1.6 and whack on a weber carby.

OR

i can bore it out to a 1.8 with an overbore kit. a bit more than a grand AUD.

where i am, there are 2 seasons, a wet and a dry. the dry is, well, dry and dusty, and the wet is monsoonal, with a lot of rain, flowing creeks and rivers, and a lot of mud! i mostly play in the mud, so theres no real water crossings, but i guess if your motor is under water, it wont work that well if it works at all.

what i want is to supercharge my motor, and the single point injection is closer to grasp than any other option. i've heard it works well, and is as simple as anything.

i was hoping in doing the swap to injection myself, or what ever i can with it, but with any headwork, i'll have to take it into the mechanics to do.... more money.

MARKYB:
how did you blow your engine? and is 10HP all that i will gain from converting to injection? i thought it would have been more. i really have no idea, as there aren't many people up where i am with any experience.

RHINOMAN:
what is this speedo head you are talking about, i have not heard of this before. i guess its not something you can identify from the outside.

well, its getting a bit more interesting, as in confusing, to me now, with all these comments. i think the general view is that converting to efi/spi will not gain a whole heap of power, but will enhance response throughout the rev range.

i just thought if i could supercharge it, there would be a bit more torque on tap to use. i could just get some crawler reduction gears for my transfer, but it would still be the same POS on road.

more to think about now..... thinking cap back on....

thanks guys,
steve

UK figures:
Carb 8V = 80bhp
Carb 8V Sport = 95bhp
TBI 8V = 80bhp
MPI 16V = 95bhp
all manufactures figures at flywheel

Inside the speedometer is a hall effect switch that tells the ECU how fast the car is going, its used for acceleration/decceleration adjustments and idle speed control. Supercharger will give more torque and a better spread of power but the stock ECU will not be able to handle the manifold air pressure or give adequate fuelling - Wildgoody is the man that knows all about this.

those figures are pretty much spot on, as to figure out rear wheel HP from flywheel HP, you usually deduct 30-40% off.

so the lowest HP figure given was 80HP at fly, minus 30%, gives 50HP at wheels.

with the computer, i'm assuming there are several maps that can be either reprogrammed into the factory/original computer, or through a piggy back computer which tricks the factory computer into giving more fuela as it needs it.

will look into this as well, thanks.

No maps, stock ECU can't do it,
you need additional fuel thru
another ECU and injectors

GTG Wild
?s later

How about 1035 HP from a 4.0ll!!!?

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2311/article.html

whoo hoo, let's hear it for the carb 1.6 8v Sports!!!  

I'm planning a tune up this weekend - got a K&N filter, SplitFire plugs, new dizzy cap & rotor, and fuel filter. I'm due to change the cam belt soon so I'll get my mechanic to check the timing for me at the same time.

whoo hoo, let's hear it for the carb 1.6 8v Sports!!!  

I'm planning a tune up this weekend - got a K&N filter, SplitFire plugs, new dizzy cap & rotor, and fuel filter. I'm due to change the cam belt soon so I'll get my mechanic to check the timing for me at the same time.

Lol, whats your fuel consumption like though? A good tune up is the best way to get more power with economy. Not sure about the Splitfire plugs though. Cambelt is a fairly easy change, you should take the cover off from time to time anyway as you get a lot of muck built up around the bottom pulley. I always have a lot of small stones and stuff embedded in the belt so I cahnge it every 6 months or so its only about £12