u rotate the axles to componsate for the body lift or sespention lift to make it eazyer on the u joints right??? when should u worrie about this after how big of a lift ?

You dont have to rotate anything for a body lift, none of the drive components are moved when you do this.

When you start raising the transfer-case up you start to loose your pinion angle.
Most people will roll there axle back when  putting new spring perches on, so that they can correct there pinion angle or set it up for a CV drive shaft.
You cant really point the front axle up, because you will effect the way the steering works.  Unless you want to cut the knuckle balls off and weld them back up to how they should sit.

Are you planning on doing a lift of some sort?

Amilla

yes but im not goin over a 3" im probly looking at a 2"

What kind of lift on what kind of truck?

Derek

i hav a 91 asuna 5spd now. i  just finished a body swap from a 92 auto asuna sunrunner i like 5 spd better than auto so this is my next step im thinking of getting some spacers from jeff on here and goin with the mustang shocks and my strutt mounts are allready flipped im gunna get the combo of 2 /1.5" for the front

You wont need to worry about driveline angles with only a 2" lift. I have been running one on my truck for 3 years now w/o any problems.

Derek

Never mind the angles!  Isn't the axle rotation really about letting the rear articulate and moving the axle back an inch?

Never mind the angles!  Isn't the axle rotation really about letting the rear articulate and moving the axle back an inch?

this make the rear articulate more ? or

My understanding was the rear articulated better because this helps relieve the angle that the top mount finds itself at after a lift.  Rotation also kicks the pinion up and reduces the angle of the bottom u-joint but I have thought the real benefit was the reduced binding. 

It actually moves the axle back more like 2", all the other stuff still applys.

You won't get any more articulation unless you have full lenth springs and the F150 shocks.

I understand the need for longer shocks but what about the springs?  I was just going to use a limiting strap to stop anything from falling out, reduce the binding of the top knuckle, and take the extra 2"!! of wheelbase.  I have 2" spacers right now but could be convinced to use XJ springs (cut down?).  Now that I am thinking about it, if the springs were anchored top and bottom, I would probably get more flex and only have to use the limiting strap to protect the shock.  I'll have to measure everything up first though. 

You might need a 3/4 or 1" drive line spacer also.

Now that I am thinking about it, if the springs were anchored top and bottom, I would probably get more flex and only have to use the limiting strap to protect the shock.

You should never anchor both ends of the spring, over compressing or over extended a spring will soon kill it. That is why it always the shocks that limit the down travel (and why you have bump stops).

fair enough ... then there is no need to run out and get XJ springs!