Well, my 1995 4 door sidekick project is in a serios ditch at 186,000 miles.  The main bolt that holds the crankshaft and lower timing gear in place will not stay put.  The crank shaft is "wallowed" out a bit and no matter how munch I torque it, the bolt backs out na power is lost.  Is this fixable? Or am I looking at a new engine?  I called around for an engine and it seems like I am going to spend $1,500 bucks at least just for the engine.  I just dont have that kind of money and would still have to buy tires.  Anyone have any ideas?  HELP!!! Or else I guess it is a tax write off. 

The body and the rest of it is in GREAT shape, no major rust or anything. Only known problem is a burned out window motor.  It is the JLX model with alloy wheels and factory skid plate.  I have coil spacers from Jeff and CJ5 wheels ready for tires.  If I don't get the new engine, how much do you think it is worth?

Where are you at?  you could pick up an esteem engine and make it work from like car-parts.com I have seen them go for 250.00 on there.

I had the same experience with a '93 JLX that I bought for $500.

Basically, I removed the engine and took it to an engine shop.  They did a complete rebuild with a remanufactured crankshaft for about $1800 bucks. 

NOTE:  this was a complete rebuild - not just a used replacement engine!

Problem solved.  I have since put over 40k on it and it still is running great.

Naturally, if you have the skills and tools, you can simply tear down the bottom half and - carefully measuring and matching the bearings - install a new crank. 

It would probably be better to get the rebuild though.  The payments would certainly be cheaper than buying a similar used car.

I hope that this helps!

Where are you located? Here in NV i can get a 1.6L from a dismantler for about $650 plus $200 for cpu.
Might want to try the dismantler/ wrecking yard option.Good luck!

You need to check into the crank keyway fix that has been described elsewhere, especially by Whitfield. Basiaclly you get a new key for the crank timing pulley, and using some special lock-tite(609, I think) you put it back together. Whitfield did something like this to one of his and it's been running fine ever since. The 609 locktite fills the gaps, creating a nice snug fit with the new key and you also need to locktite the bolt when you torque it to spec...

Here's a detailed description of the procedure. I know it's for a miata, but the same principal applies to the Zuk.

http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank1.html

At the current age of the motor you can try the the Keyway fix or you can just put the bolt in with some JB weld.. It wont back out.. Get it clean and prepped then put it together tourqed to spec and let i sit open for 48 hrs.. It wont come out. 

This is very encouraging!  Thank you!  So I guess my options are either the keyway fix or jb weld the bolt in there.  The JB weld method seems much easier, but is it as effective? 

Has anyone torn down this engine?  I am wondering how hard it would be to replace the crankshaft and timing gear, and maybe the block.

Oh, by the way, sorry for not answering the question... I am in TX

Oh I bet the JB Weld is very effective!  I would say if you go that route be sure to get it torqued right the first time.  That stuff is tough.  I have always been a bit leery of the permenate solutions like JB Weld because you are not getting it undone again once it sets.

This is very encouraging!  Thank you!  So I guess my options are either the keyway fix or jb weld the bolt in there.  The JB weld method seems much easier, but is it as effective? 

Has anyone torn down this engine?  I am wondering how hard it would be to replace the crankshaft and timing gear, and maybe the block.

the jb weld is probably the route i would take wih a high mileage engine..... worst case scenerio, you still have to buy an engine or crank..... best case scenerio, you get another 100,000 miles out of it.
just remember, the bottom seal is cheap and so are new timing belts(just dont buy one of the $10 ones)while your doing the work
jason

P.S.    if you dont loctight the bolt it is guaranteed to back out

Thank you! I tried locktight and it did not work... So here is what I am thinking... I have a new keyway in hand, so I am going to JB weld the bold and anything else that needs it, let it sit for 48 hours, say a prayer and go wheelin.  I think you are right... with 186k on the motor, there is no need to dump a bunch of time or money into it.  If I blow it or this doesn't work, I will start saving my boxtops for a vm diesel swap from Acmeadapters.com.

Thanks folks!

is the locktite you speak of the "green" locktite?  609?