My 1.3 sammy(dailey driver) was idleing in the drive way and just stalled.Put it in the shop and a day later went out and fired it up it idled for a couple seconds and then died,tried to start it again and nothing.Checked fuel(good),spark and had it,then checked timing,put on a new belt on,timing was good.Put it back together and tried it fired up then died.A day later I went back at it and checked spark, none.Checked timing again its good new plugs,wires,dizzy.Checked coil had a little more resistance than my favorite buddy said it should Mr. Haynes(manual) so i replaced it to find out that wasn't it(rookie move).So now I'm at the ingniter,any good ways to check it since my buddy doesn't have a clue.(Mr. Haynes).Or is there any way to check the ECM?If any one has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated.Thanks (1992 sammy 1.3 TBI)

Best way to check to see if the ECM is bad is to swap it out with a known good one.  But most people don't have this option.......so the next best thing (IMO) is to pull the ECM out, take the cover off and look at the capacitors and the circuit board around them.....if the circuit board around them looks "different" than other parts of the circuit board (may have some residue on it and/or some cracking in the sealer), then more than likely the capcitors have leaked onto the board and damaged some of the traces.  You can also smell the board around the capacitors.....if it has a "fishy" smell to it....then that is another indication that the capacitors have leaked.
If you know something about electronics, checking circuits/traces, and can solder......then you can possibly fix it.

Thanks for responding,today I took the ecm apart nothing looked bad and no fishy smell.I traced the wires from the ingniter back to the ecm (orange,orange/black)then I probed the wires at the ecm with a test light turned on the ingnition and didn't get any power out of either wire,even tried while turning it over and nothing.Even though there is no check engine light on is it possible that a diagnostic code would come up.I'm running out of ideas,would the crank sensor keep it from firing?Thanks again for the help

You could try pulling codes by putting a fuse in the diagnostic slot of the fuse block (remove the cover first) and turning the key on and watching the flashes of the check engine light.  A "12" flash (1 flash, pause 2 quick flashes....repeating) means there are no trouble codes.

So when it doesn't start you are able to turn the engine over, it just doesn't get spark and start, right?
If so, it could be the ignitor causing the problem....since you have replaced all the other igniton parts.

correct, engine turns over fine,just no spark.I'll check the codes and see what happens.Thanks again

tried to check the codes and the check engine light didn't even come on,gonna see if the lights disabled or burnt out.took the ecm back apart and I did notice a difference in the board coming  in at the plug but i'm not a expert by any means I don't even no what i'm looking at.Just looks a little dark,but no fishy smell.

tried to check the codes and the check engine light didn't even come on,gonna see if the lights disabled or burnt out.took the ecm back apart and I did notice a difference in the board coming  in at the plug but i'm not a expert by any means I don't even no what i'm looking at.Just looks a little dark,but no fishy smell.

I wouldn't be surprised if you found that there isn't a bulb at all in the CEL socket.......some people aren't smart enough, are too lazy, or just don't take the time to fix whatever causes the light to come on....so they just pull the bulb out and forget about it.

You know what electrolytic capacitors look like don't you?  Around those are where the board will look different, if they have been leaking.  There are 4 of them.  They are the shape of miniature cans (round and cylindrical) if you don't know what they look like.  If you take the cover off, and hold the board up with the plug connections at 6:00, there is 1 big capacitor in the lower left hand corner of the board.  The other 3 are kinda in the center of the board, just up from the left edge of the white plug.

The caps could be bad without leaking on the board or smelling fishy, but that is a definite sign that they are bad.

gotcha ya on the capaciters, round cylinders,there's two by the white plug that look melted together with a darker spot around the red one.I don't know if it makes a difference but i checked the resistance on both capaciters and there not offline.gonna look at it more tommorrow,do u have any clue what a new ecm goes for haven't even looked for one yet

Used samurai EFI ECMs usually go for $150-$200......if you can find them....they are usually pretty hard to come by.  You can buy new but you are looking at up around $1K.  I think you can buy remanufactured ones for around $300-$400.
You might be able to replace the caps in yours and get it to work.  If you know how to solder, then unsolder the old caps, and replace them with new ones.  The caps may have damaged some of the board traces around them, so you may have to check/fix some of those as well.

any idea who I could send the ecm out to and have it checked,and possiably fiixed?Can't find a fuel injected one locally to save my life.

any idea who I could send the ecm out to and have it checked,and possiably fiixed?Can't find a fuel injected one locally to save my life.

PM "surly" over on zuwharrie.com