I actually do the opposite when I wanna run in low. I use the sammi 4lo instead of the kick 4 lo.  reducing the gearing closer to the drive wheels will put less of a strain on all the parts before where the reduction is taking place.

the only thing I have to worry bout is the gearing in the pigs to suffer. shifting the kick into low, there's more of a chance that the sammi case and/or the diff will go

here's another link to the ghetto alternative to the OTT kicker kit if funds are tight

http://www.zookpower.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=1012

here's another link to the ghetto alternative to the OTT kicker kit if funds are tight

http://www.zookpower.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=1012

Which are you referring to, the one with the 2-part front DS or the one that lopped off the front output on the kick case?

Which are you referring to, the one with the 2-part front DS or the one that lopped off the front output on the kick case?

not sure what you mean by the 2 part front DS but yeah the lopped off kick case one

Post #3 in that thread... the driveshaft with a ujoint in the middle, mounted to the frame.

oh yeah that's the shaeffer design, no I decided to lobb the front output on mine, I felt safer with a real driveshaft up in there

oh yeah that's the shaeffer design, no I decided to lobb the front output on mine, I felt safer with a real driveshaft up in there

As would I. After school when I start on my kick project, hacking off the front output and sticking a sammy t-case behind my tracker is one of the things I wanna do... I'm waaaay to cheap to buy a kicker3

I'm still curious how far the sammy case would stick down when mounted in a trackick?
Brian

SOS RingR, Toy trans and cases.......................
Bulletproof and any gearing option off road or highway.
No chopped up trannys or t-cases and parts that are on the shelf, at NAPA or Autozone.......................................

Any gearing option for the highway?   I thought Toy's were like a Kick with a 1:1 High that you couldn't change. What have I missed?

SOS RingR, Toy trans and cases.......................
Bulletproof and any gearing option off road or highway.
No chopped up trannys or t-cases and parts that are on the shelf, at NAPA or Autozone.......................................

More info on Toyota T-case. say what?
Hooking up a Toyota T-case to Tracker Tranny or Toyota tranny and T-case to Tracker motor.
Or using a Toyota motor (god noooo) and all?
Tell me more. Inquiring minds want to know

SOS RingR, Toy trans and cases.......................
Bulletproof and any gearing option off road or highway.
No chopped up trannys or t-cases and parts that are on the shelf, at NAPA or Autozone.......................................

The goal of chopping up tcases is being cheap... that solution sounds more expensive than a kicker3

How are the TORA axles coming along?

The goal of chopping up tcases is being cheap... that solution sounds more expensive than a kicker3

How are the TORA axles coming along?

definitely cheap, I figured it cost me under a hundred bucks Can. funds to get setup.

10 bucks in sawzallblades ( yes, i cut the front output off with a sawzall!)
10 bucks in aluminum plate

10 bucks in metal stapping and sq. tubing for the mounts

60 bucks to get it Tigged up

the rest was stuff I already had ( rubber bushings, nuts and bolts, mig welder etc.)

now that I think of it I did spend another 60 bucks on the 2"ID mechanical tube for the custom length front driveshaft, and a six pak of molson canadian to get the intermediate shaft welded. but still that's not too bad !

and I was able to use the front driveshaft to fit in the rear without modification, the sammi case sits about another 9 inches back from stock

here's closeup of my avatar pic, as you can see the sammi case doesn't sit too low(what you see sticking down is actually a bash guard  for the sammi case)

Man, I wish I could find a LWB Sammy down here... or even a Sammy

Where did you have it TIG'd shut at?

I got the case tigged at a buddies shop here in Ottawa Canada (Alcon Welding), No pics, but the beads were super clean and seems to hold the oil in w/o leakage so I'm happy. I did have to pre-cut the plates myself though.

I had the intermediate shaft tigged as well but at another buddies shop and it was cheap (6 pak of beer)since he was only learning how to TIG. I had him fabb up three of em and they turned out true and solid (at least the one I'm using in the truck at the moment) haven't had to replace/test out the other 2 yet, so that's a good sign!

BTW I do have 2 more LWB's and one is 4 sale, but it is rough! (was saving it for parts)