Well, I finally got it all done! Here's the finished pics!




For the "before" shot, see my avitar! LOL! Total cost of it is less than $50! The 2" square stock, skidplate, skidplate ribs and mounts and bumper to frame mounts were all scavenged from the shop's scrap pile! All I had to buy was muffler clamps(to hold down the back of the winch plate), 2" flat stock for the grille guard, the tow rings and paint! The lights, winch and fairlead I've been collecting throughout the summer.

Next project for fabrication will be either rocker protection or a rear bumper with integrated receiver hitch. I'm leaning towards rocker protection since I've already smacked the rockers a few times... LOL!

Now here's the question:
  Look at the middle pic. The KC lights sorta remind me of Mickey Mouse ears. Should I add a third one in the middle or leave it like it is? I personally like the idea of adding a third light for a prerunner or baja look. What do you think? Please let me know! Thanks!

I personally think it looks good as-is

Me too, I like Micky Mouse and I like things to be the same left and right.

looks fine to me

Here's an interesting dilema that just popped up: I went to wire the KC's relay to receive a positive signal from the high beam wire so that the relay was only energized to provide power to the KCs when the high beams were on. This way they go out when I dim to low beam(I also use a switch so that they only come on when I want them to, but only able with the highbeams). When I went to test the wires coming out of the back of the headlight bulb to find the hot high beam wire, I discovered that when the headlights are off, ALL THREE WIRES are actually continuous positive! The driver's side most wire stays hot all the time, the center wire is hot during highbeams and the passenger side wire is hot during lowbeams. But like I said, when the lights are OFF, all three wires are hot! If I wired to the middle wire, the relay would be energized when the lights are OFF! Are the headlights actually ground switched? Anybody have any other ideas?

Right now I have the KC's relay wired to the parking light positive wire so that they will go out when I turn off the parking lights or hit the switch, but I would really like them to work with the highbeams for driving lights to remain street legal. If the cops catch me running them without them wired to the highbeams, I could face a steep fine.

Also I added a small 8" blue neon tube under the grille guard shrouded so that it only shines down on the winch/fairlead with the parking lights. Looks pretty cool and probably means I will stay with just the 2 KC's for now since the tube is sitting right where the nut would go to hold the third light...LOL!

Personally, I would just wire the lights to a switch for better control.
If your driving down a back road and flick on the Hi-beams I'd think Johnny law setting in the bushes wouldn't like that too much.
My Older bro tried that and on a back country road he turned on his Off-road lights. Johny Law was hiding out there and let him know that was a no-no.
(being the lights are for off-road only)

I think it looks great as is.

HotRod, actually, the construction of the light has nothing to do with how legal it is. To make it legal as a driving light, it has to be wired so that it can only be turned on when the high beams are on, and has to be mounted below the level of the hood. Johnny Law has no beef with it as long as it's wired in right! I know this from experience! In PA, some people think you have to run covers on all off-road lights, but in reality that's only for off road lights either mounted above the level of the hood or wired only to a switch...

The Zuk wiring switches to ground. What you need to do is wire a relay so that the relay coil is connected one side to the main beam wire (the one that goes to ground when main beam is switched on) and the other to the battery +ve via an in line fuse. Wire the relay contacts one side to battery positive ( to the same fuse as before is good) and the other side to the spots. Ground the other side of the spots and you're sorted. Nice looking bumper.

HotRod, actually, the construction of the light has nothing to do with how legal it is. To make it legal as a driving light, it has to be wired so that it can only be turned on when the high beams are on, and has to be mounted below the level of the hood. Johnny Law has no beef with it as long as it's wired in right! I know this from experience! In PA, some people think you have to run covers on all off-road lights, but in reality that's only for off road lights either mounted above the level of the hood or wired only to a switch...

I would double check that. It how mant Watts the light puts out that regulates around here TN and we have easy vehicle mod laws. The covers are required for any driving light mounted over the height of the hood at all times while on road.

I forgot the rating but there is a limit to watage on any light that can be ran while driving on road. You laws my be different in PA but that is what regulates around here.

Zig

I almost forgot

I think the bumper set up looks good as is, great job!!! But then again I'm biased towards the Mickey mouse look



I'd set it up how you like it best

Zig

Well, PA's laws are really confusing if you start digging around to find them. Technically ANY accessory lighting is illegal, however if you have it mounted in a factory looking position and wired to work as a factory install would, you don't draw attention.  I am pushing it a little bit with the height of these, but if I can get them wired in right at least, I should be fine to run them un covered on the road. Beleive it or not I haven't found anything about maximum wattages allowed in the state laws, just Federal DOT specs which are no more than 100 watts for driving lights used in conjunction with the highbeams... It doesn't help matters that each cop you ask has a different answer! LOL!

Thanks for the complements! The way it is now with 2 lights is growing on me I guess, so I'm probably going to leave it this way. I probably should have mounted the lights a little closer to each other, but I mounted them where I did out near the uprights for maximum strength and to fight any wobble at speed.

Zig, your bumper set up was quite an inspiration to me when I started this project. I actually wanted something very similar to yours, but as I got more and more into building it, the design morphed into what you see now. I kinda like the stealth-ness of it. At a glance on the road as I drive by it almost blends in to the factory lines. The first things to catch people's eye are the KCs and the fairlead... then they see the D-rings and the skidplate and realize that this ain't no stock bumper! LOL!