Just wandering if new gearing is a must with larger tires than stock. If so what is a good gearing ratio for 33's

6.5:1 or 8:1 transfer case gears. 

Good article on gears at:
http://www.zuwharrie.com/content/view/15/27/

I know that it is not good to do all the gear reduction in the transfer case. It should be split up between ring and pinions and transfer case. But what would be a good combo for axles and transfer case.

I think you will be alright with just transfer case gearing if your just planning on running a 33.
If you were to be going bigger that's when you would want those lower R&P. 

Amilla

doing the transfer case gives u a great 4wd low

doing the transfer case gives u a great 4wd low

Thou your high range can turn the bigger tires...its pretty worthless off road.  Thats where the R&P would make it a bit better.

Amilla

Thou your high range can turn the bigger tires...its pretty worthless off road.  Thats where the R&P would make it a bit better.

Amilla

I think he is looking at this for his Sammy.

Quote from: Amilla on October 23, 2008, 06:22:46 PM

Thou your high range can turn the bigger tires...its pretty worthless off road.  Thats where the R&P would make it a bit better.

Amilla

I think he is looking at this for his Sammy.

I know, i have a sami with 6.5:1, 4.10 R&P, with 34s and my high range IS worthless off road. 
But low range works fine, just have to come into somethings in a higher gear.

A doubler would make it nicer off road, with all the extra gearing options.

Amilla

Amilla

High range is almost useless for trail driving stock, so I never really considered it a change. 

A doubler would be the best route, I can't argue with that.  Then again, so would the 1.6 that comes with most of the doubler units. 

I heard that if you gear down the transfer case and not the r&p the transfer case will pull the bolts out on the long arm side of the case and break of the short arm side mounts. They say to choose the R&P gears for the size of tire you want to run and then select transfer case gears

I heard that if you gear down the transfer case and not the r&p the transfer case will pull the bolts out on the long arm side of the case and break of the short arm side mounts. They say to choose the R&P gears for the size of tire you want to run and then select transfer case gears

You will want to add bracing anyway.  I run 5.12 gears in the axles and a 6.5:1 transfer case with the SJ-410.  I have added bracing to the long arm and run the bulletproof transfer case mounts from RR with different washers (after destroying the bushings due to pulling the stock sized washers through them).  Recently I managed to break my transfer case on some rocks.  So I upgraded to a home made cradle mount.

One thing to look at though is you still only have 65hp stock.  You can't do hill climbs in high range stock, so you really can't expect to do them with larger tires on no matter what you do with the gearing.

I can run around on flat trails in high range, and almost have the grunt to climb things with the 45hp the SJ-410 engine puts out.  But I also max out at 50mph.  It's a trade off, and I have a tow rig to make up for it.

You can find arguments for both directions all over the place.  One thing to remember though is that the SJ series is one of the few where dropping the transfer case gears changes both the high and low range.  Most t-case gear sets only change the low.

luvn my 33s w/538 gears

where do you find info on the doubler? and is it a pain in the bean bags or its just simple bolting up with a conversion plate and cutting of the body for the shifters

The Kicker 3 is the most common one.  There was a Rock Block that was produced for a little while, but I think they stopped producing it.