So I gather that I have a ODB-1 since I have a non California Emissions 1994 Tracker with the 8V engine.  I did all of the maintaince at 100K but I need that light off so I can smog.  Where can I get a code reader for this?  I have had no luck getting a ODB1 reader that fits my Tracker, and yes I am trying to do this on the cheap if at all possible.

Did you try to jump the pins in the diagnostic plug to get the light to flash the codes? 

Yes I have, according to the dealer only reseting it will do the trick.

Find the switch under the dash and slide it the opposite way it is now......that is probably why the light is on (mileage interval).  If it is on for some other reason, the only way to get it to go off is to fix whatever is causing it to come on.
AFAIK, only ODB2 vehicles need a code reader to turn off the light.

I thought that too but I have the shop manual for my Tracker and it confirms what I have been told at several shops.  I can't do the switch since it does not effect the ECU just the light circut.  You have to have that check engine light come on during smog to pass and all that switch will do is break the circut to the bulb.  You have to reset the error light when it hits the maintaince mileage flags.  I just have not had any luck on finding a ODB-1 reader for a Suzuki Sidekick of that year.

Our new Snap-on Solus won't read codes on my Kick either. Have you tried disconnecting the battery yet and see if it goes away?

Derek

Slide the switch, that is all you have to do.  It is not an "off and on" switch.
If the light is on because of a mileage interval, it will go out, but will come back on when 1) you hit another mileage interval, or 2) the ECU detects an error.
If the light is on because the ECU has detected an error, it will still be lit when the switch is slid to the opposite position and you will have to fix whatever is causing the error before the light will go out.

 What Sky said.... You need to try flipping that switch to the opposite position it is sitting at now, if the light goes out then it was just a mileage service light. If it stays on then jump the pins like the book shows and find out and repair the problem.

Well I just did some reading in my Chilton manual and I'll tell you what it says.

First it says...  "An OBD-ll serial data line is used for either the Suzuki scan tool or a generic scan tool to communicate with the ECM"

Second clearing codes 1989-95 engines...   "To clear all of the stored DTC's, disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery for at least 20 seconds, then reconnect i. The codes should now be erased from the ECU"

Third the check engine light coming on at preset millage is called "Feedback carburetor system" and is found on 1986-1989 1.3L engines ONLY.

So I think you have a code logged in the ECU, so jump the terminals figure out what the code is and repair the problem. Then disconnect the battery for a minute and recheck, when you fix the problem code # 12 should flash and that is to tell you that everything is now working proper.

Hope this info helps

Slide the switch, that is all you have to do.  It is not an "off and on" switch.
If the light is on because of a mileage interval, it will go out, but will come back on when 1) you hit another mileage interval, or 2) the ECU detects an error.
If the light is on because the ECU has detected an error, it will still be lit when the switch is slid to the opposite position and you will have to fix whatever is causing the error before the light will go out.

I believe Skyhiranger is giving you the correct information.  The switch (very tiny) should be behind Driver's side speaker and facing the firewall.  good luck

The SES switch is a good earner for the dealers, Chilton is wrong it is fitted to 1.6 models too. The OBD1 ECUs use a Suzuki specific protocol an OBD2 scanner will not work. I made my own scanner after hacking the ECU code. Fortunately you can also pull the codes using the Diagnostic Test Connector.
More details here:

http://www.btinternet.com/~j_holland/pages/diag.html

Cuthulu, I think the reason you are getting misinformation from the repair shops is because you are in Cali.  I believe that Cali spec trackicks (and maybe other Cali spec vehicles?) do not have a CEL reset switch.  So therefore, that may be why they are telling you to take it to a dealer, to have the CEL reset  (it may be as simple as disconnecting the battery....I am not sure how the CEL is reset on Cali spec vehicles....since I have never seen or messed with one).

Ok, so first the light came on at 100,000 exactly.  I watched it happen as I was commuting to work and counting the milage so I know its that.

Also I tried the battery terminal and it does not work for a mileage interval flag, belive me I tried.

That switch is very much an On/Off switch and has no effect on the ECU for my model (I checked the wiring diagrams in the manual). Also there is a thread around here where someone flipped that and then went and failed smog because the light never came on.

Also while the 94 was the first year that had the CA emmissions that was only in CA in 94 and was packaged with the 16V only. I wish mine was one of these but I have the 8V which was sold in CO so no CA emmissions on this.

The SES switch is a good earner for the dealers, Chilton is wrong it is fitted to 1.6 models too. The OBD1 ECUs use a Suzuki specific protocol an OBD2 scanner will not work. I made my own scanner after hacking the ECU code. Fortunately you can also pull the codes using the Diagnostic Test Connector.
More details here:

http://www.btinternet.com/~j_holland/pages/diag.html

Rhinoman: Thank you for that link, that is EXACTLY what I have for a 4 pin and I have had a Devil of a time finding a reader for it.  That is more information then I had before I'll try the jumper again, maybe it will work this time.  I may also give Hawk a call, maybe they have the right reader.  At this point even if the reader costs a little more then taking it to the dealer I will go that route, I need this smogged and I get a tool out of this that way.

Slide the switch, that is all you have to do.  It is not an "off and on" switch.
If the light is on because of a mileage interval, it will go out, but will come back on when 1) you hit another mileage interval, or 2) the ECU detects an error.
If the light is on because the ECU has detected an error, it will still be lit when the switch is slid to the opposite position and you will have to fix whatever is causing the error before the light will go out.

X2. 
Why wouldn't you at least try the switch?

what skyhigh said is 100% correct. you are getting misinformation from the dealer BECAUSE THEY WANT YOUR MONEY !!! i have had this problem with a 94 myself it was the EGR temp sensor. changed it, fliped the switch, and the guy that bought it passed emissions with flying colors. just flip the switch already!!!