I'll contribute before I start taking away from you guy's
First post intro:
I live around Vancouver B.C. My primary purpose for my samurai is hunting/exploring the many miles of back roads here in B.C. I am hoping to do the acme adaptors 1.6td diesel conversion here sometime this winter. I have pretty much all the parts except a running 1.6td (the one I have was shot...)
This is for an 85-87 suzuki samurai I am sure other years use the same switch, what ones they are, I have no idea. This will correct the problem with your heater blower only working on some speeds but not others.
First assumption.
You have screwed up enough effort to pull your dash apart to get the switch out. You would need to do this if you were planning on replacing your heater blower switch anyway.
[edit] The whole dash doesn't need to come out. you can remove the switch by just pulling out the climate control bezel by using a small hook or pick in one of the slots[/edit]
Second assumption.
You have some fine steel wool and a phillips screwdriver handy and have already gone to Canadian Tire, paid the $5 and bought some bulb grease (dielectric grease)
Remove the two screws (red arrows)
Pry over the four locking tabs (green arrows) to remove the top plate. Obviously if you use too much pressure you'll screw the tabs up....
Take the fine steel wool and buff up the copper ribbons and dots. Be careful not to lose the small spring under the removable triangular contact. The copper ribbons are nice and thick, so no worries about scrubbing them off.
Apply dielectric grease over the copper ribons, dots, the triangular piece and the non conductive parts of the slide. and snap top cover back into place and replace screws. Remember the small spring under the triangular piece. There are different sizes tabs on the triangular piece, so this will only fit in the switch one way.
The dielectric grease is necessary to prevent arcing of the contacts when the switch is slid from speed to speed.
The switches in the samurai really are dirt dog simple. They are easy to take apart and the switches are made of large copper pieces. Much like the
heater switch refurb the ignition switch is easy to take apart, clean up and reassemble.
Assembled switch (minus screw)
Switch separated from key lock
There are a couple of locking tabs on either side of the securing screw. apply pressure to the securing screw tab while pulling back on the tabs. The switch will pop apart.
"exploded view"
You will not need to pull anything more out than the round copper piece and the wire harness.
Edit: I did pull the whole thing apart. It is not necessary and not recomended unless you were to find a way to clearly document what position the black plastic "spring pad" is in the white housing. there are two tiny spring loaded ball bearings on either side of the black spring pad, this is what provides the key clicks. It will take a little patients and some skill to get everything reassembled if you do decide to take it apart.
Buff up the copper piece with steel wool. Buff up the corrisponding piece with the wires attached with steel wool as well.
Run down to canadian tire and buy yourself some bulb grease. Apply liberal amounts of bulb grease and reassemble. (the bulb grease will prevent arcing that will melt and destroy the copper pieces.)
