hello i just acquired an 88 samurai and it has a huge hole in the block I'm having no luck finding one here in Arkansas anybody have any sources also thinking on putting a 2.8 from an s-10 in it since i have one laying around is that doable or a waste of time

I think I've read here somewhere that you can use the 2.8 with a 700r4 from a 4x4 s-10 or blazer, a dana 300 transfer case from early 80's jeep, and an adapter from advance adapters.  Then you need engine/tranny mounts, and driveshafts or adapters.  Also a bigger radiator as the little tiny one for the 1.6l won't cut it for that big old 2.8.  I think it's doable, but other swaps might be easier.

Search for 4.3L install. I'm sure the procedure will be similar. Beware that it may be more $$$ than it seems. I guess a lot of the Suzuki gauges don't work well with the Chevy stuff.

 what are some other options the truck already has a spring over and 31s what engine would be best

"Best" is hard to say. Depends on too many variables, and it's still open to interpretation at that. The most common swaps are 1.6L 8 Valve and 16 Valve Suzuki, 4.3L chevy, and 2.0L (newer trackers) are starting to catch on (about 30% more power than the 1.6L 16V). Diesel conversions are done, but VW motors are getting harder to source. I'm not sure why the 3.8L Buick Series II isn't more popular. It's more compact than the 4.3L, weighs less, smoother running and is only about 5-10% less power. More people are turning to the 22r (and 22re) - and pretty much running Toyota running gear. I personally would go the 3.8L route before I did the 22re - way more power in that V6, and only a few lbs heavier than the 22r.

Will the 3800 also bolt up to a either 700r4, 4L60, or 3L60 trans? I've heard it will, and all three of those trannys can be used with a dana 300.(With an adapter)

I believe it needs an adapter to fit to the Chevy 350 style bolt pattern, but I know for sure it can be done. Hot Rodders use the Buick motor with Chevy bits all the time. My generic first choice is the 2.0L. Twice the power of the 1.3L without much weight penalty - both are aluminum blocks & heads. The running gear can stay Suzuki, or easily modified to Toyota. Second choice would be the 1.6L 16V - which is what I'll be dropping in (because I already have a 16v, 4-speed auto trany, ECU, harness etc) over the next few moths.

The V6 swaps are generally for people who have a tun of fabrication experience, and are comfortable doing a swap with little or no guidance. I am not such a person, and will be sticking with swaps that are well documented & supported.

I'm hesitant to offer any advice to anyone who comes running in with, "What's the best lift" or "What's the best engine"  'cause there's NO RIGHT ANSWER. And even a good answer can be the WRONG ONE FOR YOU. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING with modifying vehicles is a compromise. That's why there's dozens of suspensions, hundreds of tires, etc. What type of wheeling are you going to be doing? How often? Will this be a DD? Do you care more about on or off-road performance? What's your budget, and fab skill set?

Well said!

does any body know of a source for a short block 1.3 for my samurai

For sale section, e-bay, your local dismantlers, craigslist.org, and the popular vendors that are zook-friendly: aftermarket4x4, hawk suzuk, trail tough etc.

The 1.3L head and 1.6L 8v head are identical bolt patterns. Which means you can put in a 1.6L short block with a little work (adaptor plate, or specially modified buick motor mounts, bigger carb of some kind, of FI...).

How about telling us a little about you, your fabrication experience, access to tools, build-goals, budget etc.

OK I'm a body man by trade and I'm new to the whole 4x4 thing i don't know allot about the mechanics of it but i can do metal work and paint and weld what i want to do with the sammy is play at the superlift off road park in hot springs AR i run alot off fire brakes so i will in the mud quit a bit not planing to run on street much but i do want to drive to the park and back I'll probably build my own winch bumper cage and armer but i just want to get it running for now

Well, if you like engine builds - the 1.3L might be a good answer for you. They rev quicker than the 1.6L, and that's good in mud. Some of the regular drag-racing tricks (3-angle valve job, port & polish, high RPM cam, 2" high-flow exhaust...) for high-rpm power might be good for you. Getting rid of the stock carb will be a MUST (side-draft, junk yard adaptation, propane injection...) A lot depends on your budget.

As a body guy, I'd STRONGLY recommend doing a "virtual lift" (fender cutting) to clear tires, and then go from there. You can easily fit 31" tires with a virtual lift, and maybe a shackle reversal from Calmini... and still keep a NICE LOW center of gravity. Virtual lifts are way under-rated on this site... guess I'm one of the few left that prefers function over looks. You'll also want to spool or weld the rear (at minimum) - they're cheap & effective ways of locking the rear. With minimal street use, a auto locker would be a waste of coin.

as far as looks gos who cares what it looks like it needs to do the job above all else I've had no luck finding a 1.3 block locally mine has a huge hole in it the previous owner let it freeze i allready have 31s and a spring over I'm trying to do this cheep putting the 1.3 back in would just be easier if i could find a short block or just a block i would be wheeling in no time my bro is is an Ase mechanic and I'm a body man and shade tree fabricator

Short block from a Geo Metro will work too. It's my understanding they have stronger & better balanced bottom ends too.