I got these from a buddy that built them for his sidekick but never put them in because he only had a 2 lift.
For those of you that have built your own do they look like the right angle and what not??
My kick has a 4 inch susp lift so I need to drop the front axle BAD!!! From just looking at them I know the drivers side will work perfectly but not sure about the pass side. He told me the angle was wrong and that it needed to be cut and re welded to drop the pass side the right way. I think they will work?
These things are beefy!!


What do you think??

scroll down on here, BRD made a nice set and is super good about detailed replies... sure he can help if you are still unsure after looking

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=22395.0

great, thanks

He is probably right, he built it.  My first attempt was to lengthen both sides, I had a spare set.  After installing the drivers side, I noticed I had to push the diff backwards to get the bolt holes to line up.  (Without the drive line in it can be done.)  Then brain engaged, and told me the mount hangs at a 45 degree angle, which is why I was shoving it back.  I cut it again at 45 degrees and slid it down at least 1 1/2 inches.  It then seemed to hang more naturally.  When I built my steel diff housing, I made both mounting brackets 1 1/2 inches longer than stock mounting spot (sitting higher on axle), enabling me to use stock hangers.

Take an angle guage and slide under your rig and get the angle it hangs (or use paper and approximate the angle).  draw it on paper and mark the position it is and  where you want it (how much you want it to drop).  Make sure the two of the three bolt holes are lined up and down.  Now you have a template of how it should look.
Are you going to rotate the back side upwards, or drop the back crossmember down?  If you just allow the back to rotate up, the new mount needs to be turned also.  (Always more things to consider.)  You might open a thread on the forum about the possibilities of turning the third member over and running with the input shaft on top. That way when lowered it will not run into the crossmember.  It may start turning w/o oil, but the gears should move the oil up immediately.  Maybe someone has done it, or knows why not.

Let me know what you do.
Steve

Thanks for the reply. I also have a drop bracket made up for the back/pinion mount that will work just fine. Im just going take the stock mounts off and put these on to see what I happens. If I have to cut weld it for a better drop thats what I will do.  I will try to take alot of pictures to post up for people tring to do this on their own.

If I have to cut weld it for a better drop thats what I will do.  I will try to take alot of pictures to post up for people tring to do this on their own.

If you do decide to drop the crossmember
Mark it with diff in place, full width.
A straight up down cut will allow you to put a plate in the cut and slide the crossmember down, with gussets to the outside.
I tried to shave mine for a lower stance, with stiffer plate on bottom.  Didn't work, so replaced with a lower stiff homemade crossmember.  (Probably look better doing it right the first time.)

They could do with an additional brace at right angles to the bracket. For size/shape here are the Calmini brackets compared to the stock:

Wow it doesn't look like their is much difference between the stock passenger side compared to the calmini passenger side.You would not happen to have a different picture that show the two side by side do you??

Don't forget that the Calmini drop is designed to angle the diff as well as drop it, that way they don't have to cut the cross member up for clearance. 

The photo is of the Drivers side.  Passenger side only has three holes and is straight to bolt onto the end of diff housing above CV shaft.  (Both mounting ends bolts/holes are on the same plane.)

Im talking about the upper first pic, the passenger side .

The photo is of the Drivers side.  Passenger side only has three holes and is straight to bolt onto the end of diff housing above CV shaft.  (Both mounting ends bolts/holes are on the same plane.)