I sheared off the six bolts that hold the manual locking hub to the wheel assembly. On the passenger side. I will replace the bolts in the meantime. Does any one know of a solution to this to make it stronger ? Any help would be great.

I think the common problems for them breaking is lack of service to the hubs, and over-tightening after servicing(if done)... Going 10-15 years without any service, you will find the bolts fused with rust, I'm pretty sure the actual service intervals are every 12,000km, or twice a year is good.
Torque is 15-20ft-lb.

Thanks for the other angle I did not see it that way. What i did was counter sunk the flange's on the hub and installed Beveled cap screws instead of hex head bolts. I believe this will allow less travel between the hub and bolt. If not it looks pretty cool.

Thanks for the other angle I did not see it that way. What i did was counter sunk the flange's on the hub and installed Beveled cap screws instead of hex head bolts. I believe this will allow less travel between the hub and bolt. If not it looks pretty cool.

I doubt that the bevels on the cap screws are the same angle as the angle of the holes in the hubs....so that is likely why the bolts sheared off.
Another common issue is people do not locktite and torque the bolts properly.  I run a locker in the front of my samurai, and have had no issues with shearing off the stock hub bolts.

Amery i think I saw you yesterday, were you the guy i talked to out at AVF i had a grey and black sammy

To be technical you should have studs in there not bolts, the cones will grab the bolts and throw the torque values way off.

Both Spidertrax and LowRangeOffroad offer inexpensive upgrade hub bolt kits.   

If these fail you, then you might consider the $50 super Hub Bolt Kit, but you'll have to drill and tap for larger bolts  AND  change to Warn hubs, about $150. 

I would be more worried about why the bolts busted off then upgrading them.

When my bolts sheared off it was from a malfunctioning locker.  Did the bolts break off on both the passenger and drivers side, or just the one?

Yep was at AVF. For the most part I was told the front passenger wheel landed first that is when I heard the bang. I believe the locker is working correctly. I do think it was to much for the stock bolts. The new holes are now tapped 3/8 -16 NC. with both flanges counter sunk 82 degrees to accept the new flat head cap screws. A cheap and easy upgrade if you have a drill, 5/16 drill bit and a 3/8 -16 NC Tap and some lube for the tap. I used grade 5 bolts from the hardware store.  I will let you know if it works out. Thanks

... The new holes are now tapped 3/8 -16 NC. ...  I used grade 5 bolts ...

The SUPER hub bolt kit uses 3/8-24 (fine) and, I'm inclined to believe, grade 8 (or higher)  hardware.  Fine threads are generally regarded as stronger because of more contact area. The [standard] upgraded hub bolt kit is only $10 and doesn't require drilling out the old threads.

Edit1: I'm still working on my hubs/bolts.  The standard bolts I have are marked "7", which corresponds to metric class 8.8 (US grade 5), as best I can determine.  I've bought metric class 10.9 (grade8) flange bolts in both stainless (ARP #761-1002) and zinc-plated (Hillman).  I also bought zinc-coated class 12.9 (!) socket-head cap bolts from McMaster #95263A633. Haven't installed any of 'em yet -- too many choices.

Edit2: You will need to acquire split lockwashers, as the OEM bolts use captive washers. I ordered heavy-duty stainless washers (5/16" or 8mm) from McMaster at the same time , 'cause I HATE rust.

McMaster also has the 30mm length which could make good driveshaft flange bolts for early, small-flange driveshafts, which do occasionally break. [The later large-flange driveshafts use a 10x1.25 x30mm bolt (JIS) which doesn't seem to break, hardly ever.]  You might need a flat washer under the small socket-head.