I ask this because that's the boat I'm in now. I've got an '87 Samurai that has some rust issues in the floor pan, front right fender, and the right side under the windshield, an engine that was partially disassembled without hoses being labeled, and not a whole lot of knowledge when it comes to these vehicles. I was thinking it would be a fun project to work on, but now I'm worried I may be in over my head.

I guess I'm just looking for some inspiration (or motivation) from some of you that may have been in a similar situation, or find yourselves in one now.

This project was a complete basket case when I brought it home. EVERY bolt was taken off and put in little baggies and boxes. The neighbors thought I had brought home a washer and dryer set because it was white and looked like well, a washer and dryer.

There are patch panels available for some of that rusted stuff.

from the Article Archives:

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_020103/feature_gijane.htm

Good luck, Eric

I have seen quite a few nice rigs reserrected from the dead. If yours is too far gone or beyond, you may want to use it as a parts car and find something a little more complete. My friend and I bought a Sammi that was not running and had years of back registration due, four of us have parts on our rigs from that one Sammi.

Here's a vid I just made. It's just a quick walk around of my Zuk as it is now.

Just checked out the vid, thats not as bad as I had pictured in my head. I would try to find some patch panels for the rusty spots and get a repair manual for the engine issues. Samurai's are surprisingly easy to work with. I think you have enough to work with to make a good little wheeler.

NorCal

Thanks for the boost of confidence norcal. Just curious, are there any manuals that cover the vacuum system in the Samurais? The Hayne's manual I have doesn't have any detailed diagrams of the vacuum lines.

Thanks for the boost of confidence norcal. Just curious, are there any manuals that cover the vacuum system in the Samurais? The Hayne's manual I have doesn't have any detailed diagrams of the vacuum lines.

I was gonna say get a Haynes manual, if you check chaper 6 emissions, there is some "plumbing" info. I used it when I had my carb rebuilt and had to put it all back together.

BTW, do you know why the engine was disassembled in the first place?

Doesn't look that bad. Check the frame, if it's good, and you have the budget to fix it - do it. Remember tracker motors are going for $300 - $700 these days (in case the one you have needs a rebuild). If the rust isn't gone completely through, just use your favorite rust neutralizer, and slap on some spray in bed liner and call it done.

norcal,

From what I gathered, it ran well, but the exhaust manifold was shot. The exhaust pipe pretty much ended a few inches below the manifold because it rust off. Also, the previous owner had planned on installing fuel injection, hence the reason why the intake manifold is off. Unfortunately they didn't label the vacuum lines or wires, I guess because they didn't plan on reusing them. I'm debating on just going ahead and getting the engine out and doing a rebuild, since it already has about 140,000 on the odometer. I'm also trying to figure out whether I'm going to re use the stock carb, or go with one of the other carb options I've seen. I'm planning on using it for a daily driver, so Im not sure I want to go with a Weber or not.

Jeremiah,

There only appear to be a few places where the rust goes completely through. Thankfully, the frame and underside look relatively clean, even as far as dirt goes.

The previous owner did have a spare 1.3 in his garage, but the cylinders and pistons had gotten a bit rusty. I'm debating on getting it and seeing if I can get things to free up. If so, I might just put a rebuild kit in that one and swap it out.

Thanks for the boost of confidence norcal. Just curious, are there any manuals that cover the vacuum system in the Samurais? The Hayne's manual I have doesn't have any detailed diagrams of the vacuum lines.

http://www.acksfaq.com/Samvacuumlines.htm
does that help?

If it were me, I would put the $$$ towards a 1.6L or 2.0L swap. If it's a DD, it'll run better, stronger, be more reliable, and get better MPG - all for the same cost as a rebuild & aftermarket carb.

Jeremiah,

I'm assuming the 2.0L engines are from the Geo/Chevy Tracker?

The 2.0 is from the Chevy Tracker/Suzuki Vitara.  1999 or 2000 I believe, the newer body style.

Yep, and 130 HP (maybe 140, I forget): http://members.cox.net/aftermarket4x4/current_proj.html

Looks just as mine when I bought it! Body was rusty but frame was excellent in my case. As for the other parts, mine was totally dead, everything was broken or badly weared, or simply missing. So you stunt double, got not that bad Sam.

In a few words I'll tell you how happened with me.

I found my future Sammi in about 130km away, it's 80 miles, from home. The late autumn day I went for it, the very first heavy snow atarted. We get there in, maybe, an hour with a liitle driving on A6 Quattro. My trip back on recently bought Sammi, without front drive shaft and on slick tires , took me 4.5 hours + 1.5 litres of oil and a bit less than 10 gallons of fuel, snow was already 15-20cm deep (6-8 inch). You are driving and see Lexus LX470 smashed in a huge truck and then after 20km just something distantly alike vehicle with bloody snow around it.... 11 accidents, every single one with victims or dead. I got older for 10 years in those hours.

I've already given about $6.3k to my Sammi and finished everything except body, interior and most of lights wiring. Here is what it takes in my country. Rebuilding of 1.3 engine cost me $1.5k, transmission (t-case+tranny+front&rear drive shafts) 1.4k, suspension 1.1k, axles 0.95k, wheels (tires+rims) 1k and rest $350 for different other parts and works that was necessary to do.

Seemes a bit expensive, but consider that 75-80% of parts and kits was ordered from US and overseas shipping + customs clearance required (add about 35-50% to original prices and minimun of 2 weeks up to 3 month waiting), and still you ain't even imagine what it takes to perform customs clearance in my terribly corrupted and bureaucrated coutry (add about 4-5% more). While building my rig I wish I would live in US, guys you're so lucky having such a tiny prices for all those tuning kits, part pieces, paits and other usable stuff.