I can help you as much as I can if you want to proceed, mind you, having done it, I wont do another one. with all the work, would have been easier to do a SAS
IF YOU CANT WELD DONT DO IT!
I leveled the frame with 3ft level side to side and front to back on jack stands. one corner of the shop was sloping, needed an 1/8 inch washer under the frame. nex I took a ton of measurements. frame to floor, front subframe all 4 corners to floor. in order to keep everything lined up, I dropped a plumb bob fron the corner of the bumper bracket on both sides and marked the floor so that I will always go to the same spot when measuring. I dropped a line and marked the frame in several spots, both horizontal and vertically, so if in doubt I will have references later. do this as high as you can, I left it too low and had a hard time crawling under the truck to grind and weld.
I did the 6 inch drop for a reason. I wanted 4, but 6 gave me more room to get in with a gun to weld. have jackstans under the subframe (4) when grinding, or you will kill yourself. disconnect the steering shaft, enginemounts and get a cherrypicker to hold the engine while you drop the subframe. watch out for brakelines and gaslines. I had to cut some brackets off to give me room to move on the passenger side, but all hoses were long enough. on the drivers side, the brakeline goes through a hole in the fender, I cut straight up with a sawzall to the hole, bent it out and pulled the brake line down. Note, none of my brakelines or gaslines were disconnected. Powersteering if you have it, low pressure hose is too short, drain that first. the sub frame narrows as it goes up, you will have to chop it to slide it down. I cut the corners with a sawzall and left as much as possible.
drop 6 inches, make sure it's level, your measurements are 6 inches off. side to side inthe front, go with the plumb bob again.
weld every inch you can. I did multiple passes to get nice thick welds, and after I put 4 inch wide 1/4 inch fishplates on the sides, covering as big anb area I could, 6-8 inches before and after each joint and welded again, braced the top, boxed it.
the right side motor mount is good, just need a 6x3 square tubing cut to extend it. the drivers will not fit. I used the original mount on the block and turned it upside down, used half a 6x3 cut in a [__ shape and another flat bar to connect the 2 sides to give it strength, gusseted on all sides. can send pics if you need it. the steering shaft is about 2 inches short, needed to cut and extend. I had a stand under the engine, don t want it to crush my fingers.
to keep the rust out, I took a rattle can paint, out an wd40 sprayer with a straw on it and sprayed all the insides of the rails. plenty of holles to doi on
the rad cradle is too low, put a 1.5 inch square tubing side to side. also llined up with the original mounts with a plumb bob.
measure everything twice. the diff is at a crooked angle, need to work on that later, mine not done yet.
