I have gone to steel twice, once in a 93, and now I'm building up a 2nd Gen 03. I had read so often of their breakage that I knew what I wanted. The reason they break is the design of the 3rd's bushing placement. When driving forward (in 4wd) the diff wants to spin in the opposite direction, which is downward against the bumpstop type bushing. We run into probs tho when we choose to back-up, say, out of a hole. Now the diff wants to spin upward and there's not much there to stop it. Puting a steel strap over the top of the diff's nose is also very helpful. G[quoing for the overkill (naturally!), I did both.
ote author=misfittoy link=topic=25075.msg205617#msg205617 date=1240750327]
took my 95 4door auto sidekick out on its first major wheeling trip yesterday and promptly broke the aluminum third member. this thing is open open with 29's so my first question is whether or not this is common. i know calmini sells the steel center section but i broke the third member. so i'd like to upgrade to steel. what i found searching this site so far is that i need an xl7 center and a 5 speed gv third, i just have a couple questions about this, javascript:void(0);
A. were the gv center sections steel and if they were can i use a complete
gv front or do i have to use the xl7 center.
B. can i just swap sidekick 5.13 gears into the gv third? the articles i have seen
on this site were using some samurai parts due to different spline axles and
locker use and what not. i just want to stay open and switch to steel
housings.
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I sent my stuff (steel 3rd, ring & pinion + misc.) to Brent at Trail Tough. Not only for the diff set up, but also because I wanted a locker in it. This required some Sammy parts. The air type hub lock diaphram in the guts offsets the diff a little. I can't remember which way, but you cannot use the GV axle or short shaft if you have a locker. I also had to swap over to manual locking hubs.