Quote from: Yankee-Tim on May 01, 2009, 05:40:47 AM

Attache the wheel with 2 lugs only a couple of thread on.  Start pulling on the tire in hard jerks, using it like a giant slide hammer.  If that don't work (it usually does), then kicking the tire from the back side will finish it off.

How will pulling on the studs work? 

I've had a lot of success using a steering wheel puller with those threaded holes.

Umm, the studs are attached to the drum.  Using the tire as weight for an inertia-laden "slide hammer", you push-pull the tire and gradually, the drum comes off.  Yes, jizzle (i.e. PB or similar) helps.

This isn't rocket science. I know several A and Master techs that do it this way, as by time you actually walk over and get the drum puller tool, the drum is off.  Also, beating the back of the rim/wheel helps, but it a little more distructive.

I do the same thing to get the axle out of the housing, except using the drum loosely attached instead of the wheel.

And coming from NY, all drums more than 3 years old are rust-welded.  But it's only that, rust.

I havn't worked on many newer zuks, you say the studs are part of the drum,  and thats bolted to the axle shaft? Reason I ask is my first gen 4-door has slide off drums with studs in the axle, but 2-doors had the bolt on drums with studs in drum I think.

Quote from: beercheck on May 01, 2009, 08:51:15 AM

Quote from: Yankee-Tim on May 01, 2009, 05:40:47 AM

Attache the wheel with 2 lugs only a couple of thread on.  Start pulling on the tire in hard jerks, using it like a giant slide hammer.  If that don't work (it usually does), then kicking the tire from the back side will finish it off.

How will pulling on the studs work? 

I've had a lot of success using a steering wheel puller with those threaded holes.

Umm, the studs are attached to the drum. 

Umm, not in my world.  But I might be thinking of the wrong vehicle.  I guess.

'97 4-door, he said.  My "Suzuki" experience here is '99+.

Got pix?  'Cause, you know, I do..

Good pics Beercheck,  that's what mine look like:  studs are in axleshaft, with slide off drums. 

OMG!  Has it really been that long since I fuct around with GV axles?  Wow, I stand corrected.  Looking at the pics, I remember.  Jizzle and beat the crap outta them.  Well, the wheel slide does work to get Sammy drums off! LOL  Like my Sammy still has drums.

Honestly, I've probably forgetten more GV stuff than many even know about these grocery getters.  And as time goes on, as I have absolutely NO respect for GV axles anymore.  Thet are IMHO, absolutely worthless under the weight and power of the GV.  I can't even begin to add up the money (thousands) I have in just the front and rear GV axles to make them semi-sound for trails, and for what, to ditch them and go solid.

Reality, if you want to wheel (and I mean Wheel) a GV with larger than a 31" tire, best bet is to save the money and start thinking SAS.  Even with 31"s, expect axle snapping if you get jiggy wit it.

Ummm, do I smell microwave popcorn?

So... I'm trying to replace my drums and this is as dreaded as I could imagine...

What was meant by putting tention on the bolts and wacking w/ a 5lber?

I assume the 5lber as a dead blow mallet? But what tention to the bolts?

We dont' have pb blaster up here in the north, but I did spray down the hub with some liquid wrench

Had the same problem with the wife's 2000 Cherokee Sport. Beat the hell out of them with no luck. Used my multi-puller and slid them off nice and slow. They fought all of the way off of the shoes. I just kept turning that puller bolt 'til they were off. Wouldn't do it any other way now. When I finally do it on the Tracker I'll paint the new drums with zinc paint. Hopefully they won't turn to shale like rusty %&^|removethispart|@#*.

BoGiggers

Ive always used the 2 10mm bolt holes in the drum like your supposed to and never had a problem?



also, you may need to back off the adjusting star and have the shoes retract back a bit, as drums wear in a lip can form at the back of the drum witch will cause the shoes to hang up.

so if you back them off first, that will help as well.

Ive always used the 2 10mm bolt holes in the drum like your supposed to and never had a problem?

Same here! 

I can't figure out how all of those other posters totally missed the mark about using the drum's removal (jacking) bolt holes. 
It had me thinking that they were working on a different model than mine.

I think its maybe one of two things... like me, the hole thread stripped
or different drums w/o em were put on

In the best of conditions, my 2001 GV brake drums need to be pulled by using the threaded holes and a couple appropriate bolts.  E brake off and such to reduce tension.  Never had to adjust out to remove.  These rigs seem to need a bit more patience than some when doing mods or maintenance.

Pat

we basically forced a larger diameter imperial bolt through the hole and managed to get it off...

after that, well... though they are drums, they're also a pain in the butt to re-assmeble compared to most... the springs were in good condition, so I resued them... but all my spring tools wouldn't find on these little springs

Needle nosed vice grips are your best friend...

My new drums have NO backout hole, so I'm pretty much screwed next time

The drump was really quite siezed to the axle.... I think only a gear puller would have otherwised worked

The guys that have trouble using the threaded holes usually live in those parts of the country that rust is more than surface rust.  The place where they seem to really get 'fused' is the center hole.  If you wack that thing on the outer edges, but still on the face it usually breaks it free.  Don't ever wack it on the flat surface that set perpendicular to the face, it will cause you to need to replace them.

There are several way to get them off.  But before you put them on use crocus cloth on the inner hole

Ok, I'll bite. What the heck is "crocus cloth"?