As i said in a different post i am planinning on keeping my tracker now. i definatly need to rebuild or replace the existing engine. it is sitting at 1907xx now and has seriously bad ring sealing issues and just seems plain whooped. i have come to the conclusion that a swap to 16v, or v6 is alot outta my reach at this time. so id like to do a little performance minded rebuild on the 8 valve. can anyone point me in a direction of a somone who makes a good kit, possibly with a bbetter cam and maybe slightly bumped compression pistons? ive found stuff for the 1.3 but not 1.6. thanks, cause then i can get to the fun stuff once it runs right.

I havent seen any pistons for the tracker motors. they do make a torq cam for them. not sure how well they do. check out lowrangeoffroad.com  I've bought stuff from them before. good company. I rebuilt my 16v this past winter. I bought a rebuild kit on ebay. had everything its a lot cheaper. It cost me under $600 but I didnt have to a complete rebuilt just cleaned and bored the block. anymore ? just ask. I've done a few of these motors.

Hey, ive posted about building a performer 1.6L. All i got though, was a bunch of people telling me to swap to something else.

I would love to build a little bit more performance into my 1.6 too.

Ive heard good stuff about the torquer cams, kinda wanna put one in when it comes time to put my stuff together.

after posting last night i went on solidd war path to find parts, ebay stuff worry me somtimes. funny thing is they were right there in front of me on the lowrangeooff road website. i cant find bumped compression pistons, but would having the head milled alittle do aright on this thing. i mean im a small block chevy guy so the little 4 bangers alittle different to me haha. i was shooting for bumping the the performance up to maybe a 100hp give or take. thats why i was thinkin cam, little more compression, maybe some port clean up work,and slap a header on it. i dont want a rocket ship just somthin that goes dow the road a little easier.

Everything your talking about doing, cam, port cleanup, header and larger exhaust, plus milling the head, is pretty much standard, good 'ol hot rod stuff. The only thing I would be concerned about is when milling the head, you change the shape and volume of the combustion chamber, and this may result in some flow/fill issues if not reconfigured. You may want to look into Honda pistons for slightly higher compression. While reasearching for my turbo, I found out some d16 Honda's have the same bore, and deck height , and would offer a higher compression. ( Some honda guys have used Suzuki pistons to LOWER compression for turbo use.)  With the 2 valve I wouldn't go over 10 to 1,  all else sounds like a recipe for a fun engine. Of course, then there's turbocharging, ......

I found this site through one of the fora, never had any dealings with them though.

http://suzukird.com/

thanks for the input and the link. the honda d16 pistons are a direct swap, wrist pin diamameter and all of that. i just know with a sbc if you go from a 350 to like 383 stroker you need a different style piston to claer the rod throw and what not i believe its the piston hieght and where the wrist pin is locataed in the piston, what im gettin at is everything all the same, will it work without custom clearencing, cause im sure those pistons are alot easier to find. i never once in my life thought for a minute id be excited about tearing into a zuki engine. turboing sounds great but alot of time and money that i cant afford with a kid on the way and 3 project cars 2 of which are drivers when one or the other needs work, just not in the cards right now haha. thanks again

I found this site through one of the fora, never had any dealings with them though.

http://suzukird.com/

You might want to take a look at the comments on some of the fora where SuzukiRD have been discussed - may I suggest a qucik search over at www.teamswift.net

One thing to bear in mind is a lot of their product is designed for street & strip where the emphasis is on high end performance, most 4wds need the power lower down in the rev ranges.

i know 4wheel drives need there power down low but fromwhat ive seen the little 1.6 likes to rev hard to make its power cant just idle along and expect it to throw gobs of torque down. i used to wonder why a kid i know would rev the snot out of his 4 banger 4 runner until i got the tracker and realized if i want to put it into int it power band i had to rev it higher than i normally would with say my old f250 5.0 motor. i dont maybe im wrong but these things dont make much low end power anyway.

i just know with a sbc if you go from a 350 to like 383 stroker you need a different style piston to claer the rod throw and what not i believe its the piston hieght and where the wrist pin is locataed in the piston

Apples and oranges comparison. With the 1.3L, you're talking about changing to a high compression piston. In your 383 example, you're talking about changing to a longer stroke crank.

In a 383, the 400ci crank is used, which has a longer stroke / diameter crank. This changes the angle of the rod when the crank goes round and round. That angle is a little steep for the stock (shorter) 350 rod, and can be hard on the cylinder walls (especially in higher RPM). Going to a longer rod would send the piston too far "up" and you'd bend a valve. The solution to this is to re-locate the wrist pin "higher" on the piston that works with the longer rod.

In the 1.3L with a higher compression piston, you're not changing the crank / stroke, and therefore is absolutely nothing like the 383 stroker engine.

cant just idle along and expect it to throw gobs of torque down.

Can't expect any small 4-banger to put down "gobs of torque down". But you can expect it to put gobs MORE torque when compared to a smaller displacement / smaller stroked version. The reason people suggest using a larger displacement engine is because all of these tricks have been done. "High performance" 1.3L engines are nothing new. If you're interested in low end grunt, dollar for dollar you can't beat a 1.6L engine. Period. It will cost you more, and you'll end up with something close to a stock 1.6L - but with very little $$$, the 1.6L can be built to walk circles around the 1.3L in low RPM. It's a value thing.

The 1.3L has had great success in drag / motorcross where a shorter stroke engine has an advantage. But, they're willing to kill all low-RPM performance to gain a very narrow very high RPM power band (usually the last 1,000 RPM give or take). This is why we ask people over and over again - how do you plan on using it? For a crawler, the only replacement for displacement is lower gearing. For high RPM wheeling (mud & sand) a 1.3L may have an advantage. But - I can tell you the people on here who are racing Samurais and Trackers generally throw out their 1.3L, upgrade and never look back.

If you're into building something just to build it, that's fine. Just expect most of us in the Suzuki world are extremely value minded. We want to get the most out of our hard earned dollars. So, when someone asks, "How can I get more power" questions - the answers are going to come from that value minded mentality.

Quote from: hillbillydeluxe4x4 on May 28, 2009, 03:27:28 PM

i just know with a sbc if you go from a 350 to like 383 stroker you need a different style piston to claer the rod throw and what not i believe its the piston hieght and where the wrist pin is locataed in the piston

Apples and oranges comparison. With the 1.3L, you're talking about changing to a high compression piston. In your 383 example, you're talking about changing to a longer stroke crank.

In a 383, the 400ci crank is used, which has a longer stroke / diameter crank. This changes the angle of the rod when the crank goes round and round. That angle is a little steep for the stock (shorter) 350 rod, and can be hard on the cylinder walls (especially in higher RPM). Going to a longer rod would send the piston too far "up" and you'd bend a valve. The solution to this is to re-locate the wrist pin "higher" on the piston that works with the longer rod.

In the 1.3L with a higher compression piston, you're not changing the crank / stroke, and therefore is absolutely nothing like the 383 stroker engine.

Quote from: hillbillydeluxe4x4 on May 28, 2009, 05:34:13 PM

cant just idle along and expect it to throw gobs of torque down.

Can't expect any small 4-banger to put down "gobs of torque down". But you can expect it to put gobs MORE torque when compared to a smaller displacement / smaller stroked version. The reason people suggest using a larger displacement engine is because all of these tricks have been done. "High performance" 1.3L engines are nothing new. If you're interested in low end grunt, dollar for dollar you can't beat a 1.6L engine. Period. It will cost you more, and you'll end up with something close to a stock 1.6L - but with very little $$$, the 1.6L can be built to walk circles around the 1.3L in low RPM. It's a value thing.

The 1.3L has had great success in drag / motorcross where a shorter stroke engine has an advantage. But, they're willing to kill all low-RPM performance to gain a very narrow very high RPM power band (usually the last 1,000 RPM give or take). This is why we ask people over and over again - how do you plan on using it? For a crawler, the only replacement for displacement is lower gearing. For high RPM wheeling (mud & sand) a 1.3L may have an advantage. But - I can tell you the people on here who are racing Samurais and Trackers generally throw out their 1.3L, upgrade and never look back.

If you're into building something just to build it, that's fine. Just expect most of us in the Suzuki world are extremely value minded. We want to get the most out of our hard earned dollars. So, when someone asks, "How can I get more power" questions - the answers are going to come from that value minded mentality.

WELL CRAP, You make great points, cant argue....wouldnt anyway. HOWEVER, I would love to let you "borrow" a motor just so I could see the smile. HAVE A GOOD WEEKEND...BE SAFE ALL.

Jeremiah

That's very clearly stated, especially the paragraph on the 1.3 - that, in fact, is what I trying to point out about the product that SuzukiRD markets - it's developed to increase top end power at the expense of the low end.

I don't mean to push TeamSwift down anyone's throat, but there are a bunch of knowledgable guys over there - mostly the 1.0 3 cyl and the 1.3 4 cyl, but some of them also drive the Trackers and there is one guy (superf1y) who does camshafts and could probably do a custom grind that will give more power throughout the existing power band - I'd say it's worth a browse and maybe a PM.

1 hav a 1.6 not a 1.3 if you were implying that i had a 1.3. my comparson wasnt that of stroker motor to stroker motor, it was a bad comparison i know but the only way i thought i could explain what i was asking. my question was on the use of honda d16 pistons somone mentioned. i was more or less using the comparison of engines to ask whether or not the pistons would need any work done to them to use with a suzuki 1.6 rods and crank. im very budget minded but i like power and i know most are against it one here but i would like to do a 4.3 v6 swap but thats outta the question right now so im more or less asking ways to increase the power of my 8 valve 1.6 when i go to rebuild it. im not looking to get monster power out of it but the most i can get with what i can spend, id like to get. i think i figured out that i am most likly going to get the rebuild kit, cam, reman rockers, and header through low range, i think that will keep me happy for while.

It's my understanding the Honda pistons will work in the 1.3L, but not the 1.6L. I've talked to a couple guys that looked into this, and they said the 1.6L is a bored & stroked version of the 1.3L, not just a stroked 1.3L - I've not seen any of this in person to verify, and I've been too lazy to brows teamswift to confirm. But, I can tell you teamswift is a great place to browse if you're interested in performance bits for your engine. Those guys know their stuff, and have done just about anything you can think of. They know what works, and what doesn't in performance applications. Just keep in mind some of them are trying to unlock high RPM power - which might be the opposite of what you want. Beware of subjective terms like "best [insert upgrade here]". Best for drag racing, or rock crawling?

If you can't make it bigger ( engine displacement ) the quickest route to more power everywhere is higher compression. Either higher compression pistons ( best choice with the proper head work) or some kind of forced induction. Raising the compression gives you power across the whole poweband. If you can't find the proper higher compression piston, you can always deck or mill the cylinder block. This would not change the combustion chamber shape or volume, but you still might have to do some chamber work to take advantage of the new charecteristics, and probably some other things to work out, but combined with everything else, header, freer flowing exhaust, etc, this could net you a nice motor with enhanced low end.