Well Check out this Mess at fixing a crank!  

Looks like the new Keyway they made wore till the pully started to move then slowly till my power loss a week or so ago.

Looks like the Taliban were working on my Tracker with files.

My buddy who is a machineist says he can make a new better key way and set my Tracker back up to proper specks.

What do you Tracker Die hards think?
The pully wobbles on the crank sghaft now so i need a new Pully i figger.
Will a pully off a 1996 16 V fit ?
Mines a 1997.
My buddy says he could bush this pully but i think getting one with a good slot to start with would be best.
Any ideas would be great.

get a new pulley and there is a loctite product that will fill the gap and make the new key grab the way it needs. It will fill the worn out part. Make sure to let it sit long enough to set-up right.

I had the drive pulleys on the kart motor get loose and beat the key and all the parts till every thing was no good. There was some that were not too bad and I put in a new key, a used drive pulley and the loctite product.

It fills the gap, now I'm sure it won't fill a huge gap but with a new key and pulley I'd stand by the fact that you won't have any more issues. They are hard to remove after you use the product. I've got to use a puller when before it was just pulled off by hand. When I put together a new motor now I put some filler even if all the parts are new and tight....not worth taking the chance.

Just went on the canadian site and I can't find the product name. When I get to the shop I'll get it and post it right away. This is alot cheaper than taking out the crank and getting that redone and it's impossible to fix it where it sits.

The correct fix would be a replacement crank & pulley, but that is probably easier said than done, so you might want to take your buddy up on his offer, and I agree, if you can locate a replacement pulley in better condition that would be a good start.

For what it's worth - Loctite makes a product for dealing with loose keys and damaged keyways, but I suspect your's may be too far gone for that - it's Loctite 660.

Will the 1991 pulleys work on the 1997 engines ?

I know guys use JB weld to in Canada.
I will see if i can find that 660 Locktite.
My buddy will make a good fitting Keyway he is a fantastic machinist from Australia.
They keep stuff running forever down under eh.

Also i have a compleat 8V 1600 Motor with a nice looking tight fitting Pully.
I think its a 91 Tracker it came outa its a 8 V motor tho.

My belt is the rounded tooth belt tho.
I think finding a Pully if there not compatible 88 to 98 will be Hard for me to find.

I dont care if its hard to take it apart i will drive this engine till it dies then put in a copmpleatly rebuilt one. its so nice and burns no oil id be happy with another 100.000 Miles outa it its at 130,000 miles Now

 I Need to know about the Pulleys tho?
Thanks for all the help this site and your help has been EX thru this excersise.

I'm not certain if the pulleys can interchange on the 1.6, but I doubt it - a '97 would have a different EFI system to a '91 (if the 91 had EFI) and there may be a crank position sensor in that area - I think you'll need a '96 or later pulley - 96 is when they EFI would have been changed.

If they can interchange, the round/square tooth should not really be an issue - as long as you change both crank and cam pulleys along with the belt.

I had a look at the parts catalogue - the pulley for the '96~'98 is different to the earlier ones - it has that six tooth ring on the back, visible in your pictures, the earlier ones don't.

I'm not certain if the pulleys can interchange on the 1.6, but I doubt it - a '97 would have a different EFI system to a '91 (if the 91 had EFI) and there may be a crank position sensor in that area - I think you'll need a '96 or later pulley - 96 is when they EFI would have been changed.

If they can interchange, the round/square tooth should not really be an issue - as long as you change both crank and cam pulleys along with the belt.

I had a look at the parts catalogue - the pulley for the '96~'98 is different to the earlier ones - it has that six tooth ring on the back, visible in your pictures, the earlier ones don't.

Hi Thanks the guy from ebay that sells theses gears said the same thing cept he said 95 and up was OK.
I sould just stick with a 96 or newer one tho.
Im gona try and pick up a crank to.

This way if it happens again (we can at least try a proper repair) but if it Fails again then i pull the engine and put in a new crank.
I dont need to touch the head to do that do i  ?

Iv'e seen this cond. on several veh.s in my shop. We always replaced the pully & key but found 2 options that worked (4 the $).Yes JB weld did work & we tightend the pully bolt extra tight (don't put thread locker on bolt) Crazy hard to get off next time. But the second way worked very well too & didn't require drying time like JB welding it. We install the "new" pulley & checked timing belt position. With Pulley bolt off we drilled a hole between the crank & pully. Took same size drill bit, broke off end that fits into drill chuck & tapped it into hole just drilled. "New key" between crank & pully. This works quick & lasts. Don't let crank bully bolt get loose & you won't have this problem again. Last guy doing timing belt or crank seal didn't tighten it enough & thats almost always how this happens. Hope this helps.

Iv'e seen this cond. on several veh.s in my shop. We always replaced the pully & key but found 2 options that worked (4 the $).Yes JB weld did work & we tightend the pully bolt extra tight (don't put thread locker on bolt) Crazy hard to get off next time. But the second way worked very well too & didn't require drying time like JB welding it. We install the "new" pulley & checked timing belt position. With Pulley bolt off we drilled a hole between the crank & pully. Took same size drill bit, broke off end that fits into drill chuck & tapped it into hole just drilled. "New key" between crank & pully. This works quick & lasts. Don't let crank bully bolt get loose & you won't have this problem again. Last guy doing timing belt or crank seal didn't tighten it enough & thats almost always how this happens. Hope this helps.

Yes this helps!
What sized drill bit did you use?
 Cranks are pretty hard did you do it with the crank in the Engine?
I ordered a Brand new pully and Bolt.
My Machinist will make a new Key insert like the one thats in the picture BUT it will fit in the Key slot in the pully tight.

The Crank bolt was lock tited in my Engine.

Heres a trick for getting Locktited crank bolts out.
Put a Breaker bar on the Crank Nut tie  off the Barr so it can move.
Pull the Dist wires or ciol wire off so the engine wont Start!
Trun on the Key just abit Very quick on and off.
The starter busts the Locktie like butter.
I got my bolt out no Trobles. i had to turn the engine over a few times as my Bolt was really glued in there i will be getting a new Crank bolt to!

How big a drill bit and what type to drill into a crank. sounds like good Extra insurance in my situation.

We used a 1/8 drill bit & yes the motor & crank stay where there at. At most you my have to remove radiator. As for the mach. of custom key. That's going to be tough as the crank damage is uneven. Just put the new pully on where you want it & drill from the "front towards back" of motor. you only need to drill a 1/2 in. in. Cut/break of solid shank part of drill bit & tap/pound it in the hole you drilled. Done ! As for using the starter to "Break" free crank bolt, only for a trail fix would ( I) recommened that as you can break the teeth on the starter drive gear or worse the teeth on the clutch flywheel. Ya' im guilty of doing that a few time as well when the front crank seal started dumping oil on on the trail but not worth the risk if you don't have to. Best way to remove crank bolt that someone put thread lock on it is to heat it up with a torch. Just remember to change the crank seal when done. P. S. I have an advantage on lots of stuff like this as I have owned 3 toyota truck shops for the last 14 years & am a long time off roader as most people on this site. Learned a few tricks !

I would first drill in with a 1/8' bit & finnish with a 1/4" or a little bigger if you have one. We finnished & tapped in 1/4" & to date they are still holding. One I did six yrs. ago. Go luck.

I would first drill in with a 1/8' bit & finnish with a 1/4" or a little bigger if you have one. We finnished & tapped in 1/4" & to date they are still holding. One I did six yrs. ago. Go luck.

Ok Thanks i Appreciate your Experience and the tips. I thought you ment drill from the top thru the gear teeth then pin it that way.  

Your way makes 100% more sence its a great trick!

As far as the Machinists key it will work as they Machined out a big Oval shape in the crank (look at my Picture)
Its a almost perfect long slot with rounded endes all the exact depth.
(the shop that did that cut with a milling machine had the cRank outa the engine)

Anyway there was traces of the ORIGNAL woodruff key slot in the bottom of that Oval cut out.
Its Dead center in the Oval. So the Machineist is makeing up a new piece to fit in that oval with the key part sticking up..
Basicly makeing the crank like it was when new but a werid shaped key.

 But as added Strength i like your idea of drilling a 1/4 inch hole beside or down the joint of the pully and Crank.

I will take some more pics and post em here now the Crank is clean and that Worn hand made piece of crap key is gone, Once my buddy has made up the new Key way.

New pulley will be here tomorrow from GM.
Should be a good Repair.
I have a new Longer crank bolt two the orignal one was way to short!

OK heres some pics you can see the Machinists work on the crank.
What was terible was the crappy job done on the Key that fit into the Hole!

Look at the pics you can see. The new key is two steped one part fits in that Slot the other will have the exact key in line with where the Orignal Key slot was.
If ya look in the bottom of the big Oval you can see the bottom of the old Key slot.

The hand made key thing they made looks like some afgan made it with a hand file outa soft iron in the mountains while entertainig his Goat  

Even the parts that were not worn were very poorly made.

I kinda went through this thread fast, so If I am repeating something, Oh well..

Remember - any use of a product like JB Weld or other techniques to permanently lock the crank pulley in place will make it REAL HARD to replace the oil pump if it goes bad!

BE SURE to properly torque the crankshaft pulley bolt to spec.  If possible, get a new bolt.  That bolt being loose is what caused the failure in the first place.


 

WOW ! Nice to know people who can do work like that. The drill trick is for the guy who has limited help. Very nice & good job with the pic's too !

Well Repair is comeing Along heres some up dated Pictures.

After alot of Fileing and fitting my key way fits tight with no Wiggleing.
Now do i GB weld the key way in let it dry then lock tite on the Pulley?
Theres a little play between the crank and the new pully as the crank has worn about .0001 tho i can get a piece of thin brass shim stock in between the crank and thje pully but its .0001 thick and makes everything tight and centers the pulley.

Any advise