Uhhh - you did see Ack's post right?  The one where he points out that if you "glue" the key in, it'll make it very difficult to replace the oil pump/seal/etc.?

Uhhh - you did see Ack's post right?  The one where he points out that if you "glue" the key in, it'll make it very difficult to replace the oil pump/seal/etc.?

Ya i know but i dont want this sucker to move. I figger if i get another 60 Thosand KM or so outa this id be very happy.
I am looking for a new Rebuilt 1996 to 1998 engine to have ready.

Besides Locktie can be heated up and a puller used to pull off the pully then i could get that key way outa there a few diffrent ways if i was replaceing the oil seal anyway.

Looking GOOD!

OK well just and up Date after letting all the locktie dry for Two full days i put everything back together and fired the Beast right up. Adjusted the timeing and she Runs like a new Tracker Again  


Lotsa power on hills now its even better than it was when i bought it.
Course it already had 3000 KMs on this crappy repair when i got it.

So its all good now engines just purrrs  


I will check all the bolts after a few days to make sure everythings tight not comeing loose.
Alt Bolt and Air cond Bolts ect the locktited stuff should be good!

Wow, that was 1 ugly crank snout!! Grats on getting it fixed... seems to be the cause of death on a lot of em & that 1 was wallowed out bad! Hope it keeps going for a good long time. Did you end up using Locktite 660 or JBweld on the crank/key?

Fuzz

What i did was this ...
Cleaned up the Key i made so it was polished steel no ink on it ect.
Used 660 on the key in the hole in the crank
Oh i smeared grease all around that engine seal so none of the locktie would get in there!

Then i used the same 660 on the .0001 shim and on both the crank stud and the inside of the crank timeing gear pully.
Snugged it all up tight with a block of wood (it was a tight fit i had to tap it on.

Then i used 252 Lock tite on the new longer Crank bolt (the shop used the orignal crank bolt and the buggered crank timeing pully) so no wonder it re buggered up for what to save $60  

So i cranked the new crank bolt in tight used a torque wrench gave it more than the 55 Lbs the book calls for. more like 70 Lbs.
Let it all dry for two full days.

Seems fine now runs better that ever.
I know it will be a bitch to take it apart but i figger it should be good for 50.000 Kms by then i will have found a engine and Rebuilt it myself.
might even last longer.
done the best i posibley could without pulling the engine and putting in a new crank.

It just flew up this supper steep hill where i live has a hair pin turn in the hill halfway up so ya gota slow down right in the middle of a 65 % climb.
It flew up there no worries.
No missing or pinging nice and smooth.
I figger best to set the timeing where it feels best as there no way i got my key way EXACTLY where the orignal one is so its at about 12 degerrs at 800 RPM in park.

Seems to like being there. I never shorted out that plug thing with the rubber cap on it either.

So i cranked the new crank bolt in tight used a torque wrench gave it more than the 55 Lbs the book calls for. more like 70 Lbs.
Let it all dry for two full days.

I figger best to set the timeing where it feels best as there no way i got my key way EXACTLY where the orignal one is so its at about 12 degerrs at 800 RPM in park.

Seems to like being there. I never shorted out that plug thing with the rubber cap on it either.

2 things on this: There was a TSB in (96?) retro to ALL 1.6l to torque the crank main bolt to 94 ft/lbs. This was to correct the very problem that caused the key to wallow the crank. '96 & up came at 94 ft/lb from the factory... I don't think the aftermarket books ever noted this (Haynes etc) & still have the old spec sadly. TSB# here, http://www.kick-fix.com/specs/torque1.html
not sure but prolly also on ACKS FAQ 96 fsm page. But, since you used locktite on the bolt, you'll prolly be ok & maybe could cause problems if you re-torque it... don't want to break that bolt!! I'd keep a close eye on it though.

Also, the jumper is req'd to set ignition timing correct, otherwise it will change due to the ECU advance/retard commands that it uses during normal operation. Placing the jumper sets it 'static', so place the jumper to get it right on.
If you have TDC correct on crank/cam then your key is in the correct place, or you'd be getting some misfire or compression loss... I don't know how much if any tolerance it has, so you must have gotten very close. Very cool that you got it running anyhow. 

Fuzz

Quote from: dingus on June 20, 2009, 03:55:32 PM

So i cranked the new crank bolt in tight used a torque wrench gave it more than the 55 Lbs the book calls for. more like 70 Lbs.
Let it all dry for two full days.

I figger best to set the timeing where it feels best as there no way i got my key way EXACTLY where the orignal one is so its at about 12 degerrs at 800 RPM in park.

Seems to like being there. I never shorted out that plug thing with the rubber cap on it either.

2 things on this: There was a TSB in (96?) retro to ALL 1.6l to torque the crank main bolt to 94 ft/lbs. This was to correct the very problem that caused the key to wallow the crank. '96 & up came at 94 ft/lb from the factory... I don't think the aftermarket books ever noted this (Haynes etc) & still have the old spec sadly. TSB# here, http://www.kick-fix.com/specs/torque1.html
not sure but prolly also on ACKS FAQ 96 fsm page. But, since you used locktite on the bolt, you'll prolly be ok & maybe could cause problems if you re-torque it... don't want to break that bolt!! I'd keep a close eye on it though.

Also, the jumper is req'd to set ignition timing correct, otherwise it will change due to the ECU advance/retard commands that it uses during normal operation. Placing the jumper sets it 'static', so place the jumper to get it right on.
If you have TDC correct on crank/cam then your key is in the correct place, or you'd be getting some misfire or compression loss... I don't know how much if any tolerance it has, so you must have gotten very close. Very cool that you got it running anyhow. 

Fuzz

Thanks for that info!!!
I ordered a set of the Two purple Factory Geo 1997 books off Ebay on my Tracker.
I hope there a bit more detailed than my haynes book.

The carnk bolt i put it in frist where it felt very tight by hand.
 Then took it back out put the 252 locktie on it and screwed it back in and was was very tight closer to 75 FT Lbs with a torque wrench. 
I didnt want to torque it any tighter for fear of thread damage and like you said the locktite should stop it from ever backing out.
The Orignal bolt that the other Mechanic put in was locktited in and it never moved.
It was the fact the guy used the old worn pully and a poorly made Keyway.
once the key way let the pulley start to move the pulley wore worse and began to wobble.
Then move so much my timeing went way out but i could still drive barely.

I will redo the timeing like you said with the wire shorting out the two contacts and set it to 5 degrees.
Says that right on the hood Information on timeing my 1997.
Im gona do it just to see if it improves.
The Key way was withing a degee of being dead on maby even perfect. the marks on the timeing gear pully and cam shaft pulley lined up perfect with the belt on at TDC

So i should try it to factory specs it might improve the power even more.
Worth a try anyway.

when it comes time to remove you'll need to heat the loctite. Just get a new gasket/seal for the back of the pulley and you'll be all good. I'm sure it won't cause you any more problems. We've done many worn out keys with this stuff.

I took some old sprockets for some karts and they were worn out. I let the product cure and it was all good.

OK i did that Timeing Adjustment like was susjested here and the tracker does run way Better!   Best its ever Run.
I shorted that Plug thing and set the timeing at 5 Degress and it runs better more power im Thrilled.

Thanks to everyone for all there help and ideas... Also will report how this repair holds up Ect.

Im very happy with the Tracker engine now. Man its a power house compared to before.

I find running it with the OD switch off.
 on my small island this helps to as theres lotsa hills and speed limit is like 40 MPH max.
On the HWY i can turn it on its never worked till now when i turn it on when the engine is in its OD gear, the engine changes gear and runs at higher RPM giveing more power.

I have a more power switch but dont want to get to Carreid away.