Hey guys, not sure if you've been following my thread on the Master Cylinder swap, but I got it done and it works great. I did remove all the RWAL hardware and am left with the two sensor plugs disconnected and a the dash " brake" lite permantly on. Any way I can jumper the plugs to kill the lite?

Do you have a wiring diagram?

I'd start by finding how many things trigger that particular light - does the RWAL trigger it or is there a separate light for that?

Two areas to consider - low brake fluid, there is usually a sensor in the master cylinder reservoir that is operated by a float switch, and the parking brake (hand brake/emergency brake) will also have a switch.

All three things trigger it, low brake fluid, parking brake, AND the load senseing valve and unequal pressure valve, both located on the now removed RWAL plumbing.

A piece of black tape works pretty good for hiding those hideous "Brake" and "Check Engine" lights. 

Amilla

ok, i have the answer your looking for.
things you will need
1. roll of electrical tape
2. flathead screwdriver
3. pair of siscors
4. 2-6 packs of beer

first, use the siscors to cut a peice of electrical tape about 1 1/2" long temperarly place the peice of tape on the steering wheel
this next step takes precision or you'll make a big mess
take a beer, jamb the screwdriver thru the bottom of the beer can(being carefull not to spill much) hold the freshly punched hole up to your mouth and pop the top. inhale beer! repeat 6 times.
now, take the peice of electrical tape and place it over the dash where the annoying light is. YOUR DONE!
enjoy your other 6 pack!!



sorry, i couldnt help it

shit, amilla posted that while i was writing mine

  You guys are HILAROUS! I really like the electrical tape idea , for now at least. I don't really want to pull my dash yet. As for the beers, my shop fridge only has BOTTLES! Hey, any of you guys going to Gonzukin?

If the brake light goes off and then comes back on about 5 seconds after you start the car, the anti-lock "computer" is setting that. So, reach up behind the ECM and you'll see/find a black box that is mounted vertically on the firewall. Unplug it and discard...

Problem solved.

-Eric

Thanks Eric, that's exactly what it does. I think I have worse issues now though. After taking it out for a nice long test ride in the dry, my rear brakes are dragging. I have a sneaking suspicion the proportioning valve is part of the RWAL setup. Pedal pretty much pumped up to the top, and I had to stop and let them cool. Barley made it home. I'm waiting for it to cool off now so I can take a look at it, but I'm afraid I'm going to have to go back to the stock setup to get them to work. The FSM does say that the valve is part of the RWAL, but I thought ( wrong apparently) that without the stuff hooked up, brakes should work normally. Back to the drawing board.

Thanks Eric, that's exactly what it does. I think I have worse issues now though. After taking it out for a nice long test ride in the dry, my rear brakes are dragging. I have a sneaking suspicion the proportioning valve is part of the RWAL setup. Pedal pretty much pumped up to the top, and I had to stop and let them cool. Barley made it home. I'm waiting for it to cool off now so I can take a look at it, but I'm afraid I'm going to have to go back to the stock setup to get them to work. The FSM does say that the valve is part of the RWAL, but I thought ( wrong apparently) that without the stuff hooked up, brakes should work normally. Back to the drawing board.

Not sure exactly what you've got going on but I've removed the anti-lock system on two trail Sidekicks and have had no problems. Are you sure you connected the correct line to the right port on the master cylinder? I'll attach a picture of my race truck with the cleaned up braking. It may help show which line whent to which port.

-Eric

If the brake light goes off and then comes back on about 5 seconds after you start the car, the anti-lock "computer" is setting that. So, reach up behind the ECM and you'll see/find a black box that is mounted vertically on the firewall. Unplug it and discard...

Problem solved.

-Eric

Thanks from me too.  I've heard to do that, but was always nervous about unplugging the brake computer.  I've been sporting the little black tape!!!

Thanks Eric, that may well be it. That setup looks just like mine, I just may have the lines hooked up incorrectly. I have the left front caliper line running to the front top port of the master cylinder. The two lines ( black plastic coated)  run up from some kind of splitter attached to the frame just behind the crossmember, where the control arm attaches , pass side.They used to go to a splitter attached to the RWAL valving. It's hard to tell which line goes where, so I attached what I THOUGHT was the line to the pass side front caliper, running from the splitter on the frame, to the other front port on the MC. Then the remaining line to the rear most port on the MC. I hope that makes sense, it's kinda wordy. I don't see any other type of proportioning valve on or near your master cylinder Eric, could it be mounted somewhere else?

One more thing, My 4 door master cylinder looks a bit different, the top port looks to be in the same place, but the other two ports are on the side, together facing the engine. Also, The 4 door MC I installed is shorter, although bigger in diameter.

After taking another good look at your photo Eric, it looks to me like the black plastic coated line is running to the front top port. Am I seeing that correctly? Now the 4 door MC is slightly different, having the two side ports on the same side, but the top port is in the same place. I don't have mine hooked up that way. It very well may be the lines are connected wrong, but I'd still like to see a 4 door MC hookup, preferably WITHOUT the added RWAL. I'd sure like to get this right, I had planned on going up to Rousch for Gonzukin this weekend. 

Oh, forgot to mention, cool looking purple res cap!