Today, I started disassembling the front axle on my Kick.

I am now at the part where you slowly lower the jack-supported A-Arm until the spring releases....

...except it does not want to lower and release!

I disconnected the swaybar.  Nothing.  About the only thing that might be holding it in place might be the three bolts that I left in their holes.  Also, I haven't removed the three bolts that holds the halfshaft onto the axle.  All this by the GM FSM...

Lift and remove the bolts and disconnect the halfshaft then drop it?

Or do I apply the BFH?

Workin in a vaccum with only an Internet connection, I remain  

Give me a call at home. You probably still need to drop the whole sway bar and not just disconnect it. It may still be holding the arm. The tie rod is another which connected to the knuckle and could limit droop. Then there is the brake line while still connected to the caliper. Remove caliper and hang it to the frame.

3 bolts? to what?
Why lowering the a-arm?

Still have my home phone? I'll pm you on it.

Loosen the front and rear A-arm pivot bolts,
the rubber bushings in them can be quite springy

Wild

Loosen the front and rear A-arm pivot bolts,
the rubber bushings in them can be quite springy

Wild

Ours were frozen in their sleaves and required a reciprocating saw to remove.

~Nate

I have to unbolt/pop out the axles to get my a arms to drop enough to get the coils out. I tried it without doing this and using a spring compressor but the style of compressor I have would not fit around the coil with the a-arm in the way.

I agree with what was said above though it could be a number of things.

I recently did a coil swap in my GV, with the help from other board members. I would love to help, but the axles in both cars are slightly different. Basicly you have to disconnect everything from the arm: brake caliper, CV, tie rod, strut (obviously) and sway bar.

There is a steo through in the link to install a calmini kit, I think it should help you (at least at the beginning of the article): http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120104/feature_calmini_2inch_install.htm

Thanks for all the advice!

First, I'm going to borrow a bigger hydraulic jack, then I'm gonna work on further on stripping things like calipers, strut (the driver's side unit is probably shot anyway) and then steering links if it still won't drop.

I believe that, by leaving the three ball joint  bolts in place, the A-arm binds against them which impedes the A-arm from dropping farther.  Unfortunately, I can't get them out because the weenie jack that I have can barely lift.

Details later!

Here's my steps in getting springs in/out ...

1) remove the anti-sway bar (if you haven't thrown it away yet)
2) jack the a-arm up (you'll need access to the 3 nuts below the ball joint so get jack positioned carefully!)
3) if you have em, spring clamps on the spring will make things easier. (not necessary)
4) undo the strut mount (and strut shaft nut if your going to flip the mount).
5) remove the nuts holding the ball joint and swing it out from under the arm.
6) lower the arm slowly, and spring should fall out.

Reinstall by ...

1) Get your spacer and spring properly positioned up top, and set in the recess at the bottom best you can.
2) Start jacking the arm back up. This is tricky cuz the jack will wanna slip (and you need it be clear to get the ball joint back under). I've used 2 jacks before. One to get the spring compressed into the arm, then a bottle jack to hold it there while I remove the other and get the ball joint mounted back under the arm.
3) Get the ball joint under the arm and bolts snugged.
4) reattach strut mount (and strut shaft if undone earlier)
5) torque everything properly!

Be careful as your reinstalling! That spring has considerable forces applied to it when you're getting the ball joint mount connected back up.

The only tough bit is getting access to the balljoint bolts with the jack in the way ...


What worked best last time I did this was ...
put a bottle jack in to hold the arm, removed the bolts and got the joint swung out from under neath the arm. Then I put a floor jack on to use for a controlled lowering.

When reinstalling essentially the reverse.

Using 2 jacks, one for holding while getting the joint bolts in/out, and the other for raising/lowering where it can hook up without slipping.

Those bolts were seized solid in one arm I had. Try and get them out cos they could well stop it all coming apart.

Yep, it was the three bolts holding everything together...  

I put a bigger jack under the A-arm and lifted it back into position. After tightening up one bolt, the other two popped right out.  Then I supported the hub with a jackstand and alternatively unthreaded the third bolt as I lowered the a-arm with the floor jack (none of this would have been necessary if I had originally removed the bolts before lowering the a-arm).   Once the third bolt was cleared, the A-arm dropped and the spring released but didn't fall out.

I removed the three half-shaft  bolts and removed it.

Part one completed.

The right side should be a lot easier now that I learned the hard way how to drop the a-arm.

The ultimate goal is to remove the front axle, the oil pan and finally get access to the torque converter bolts on the flexplate to disconnect the transmission from the engine.  Removing the axle also gives me enough room to slide the engine forward for removal.

This sure isn't like removing a 1.3 from a Samurai...

That first time IS a learning experience ... I went through it too. I could now drop a spring out in 15 minutes tho .

The right side ball joint bolts are out and the A- arm is dropped.

Now I know why they call this side the tougher of the two to disassemble...

Since I don't have the factory "tool" used to pull the axle-end of the halfshaft out, what can I use as a substitute?

Big flat-bladed screw driver gently applied?

Also, the outer boot has a cut in it!    

Having fun in Independence, I remain

Yeah, a screwdriver will work fine- it's not very difficult to pop it out.  

Hot diggety!

I have finally made it the point where I have removed the plate covering the front face of my 'Kick's flexplate!

Next, it's just a matter of unbolting the Torque Converter from the flexplate, supporting the transmission and yanking the engine!

This project is a LOT more complicated than pulling a Samurai engine...