That's what I was thinking of trying, but even still, it's a bandade if there really is a problem.  It must just be a wear thing, it started slowly and progressivly got more and more, now it's pretty much every start up, but once it's running it's quiet as a church mouse, I'm thinking more and more that it's ok, probably just an age thing, even though it's only 4 years old.    Thanks for the input Wild.   Dave

I don't think it's the tight tollerences
that require 5-30 oil
Wild

FWIW, I don't know if it's true or not, but that's exactly the reason I've heard from advertisements, shows, and shops, that the 5w-30, or any other recommended weight, needs to be used because of the tolerances, especailly the bearing tolerances.

I wish I had something more useful to offer this thread.

As far as additives go, I agree that most are just going to increase viscosity.  But, what about the super detergents?  I've used MotorFlush for several cars I bought used that had no obvious problems.  I don't know if it helped anything, but as far as I can tell it didn't hurt.  I figured without really knowing the previous owner's oil change schedule, it wouldn't hurt to try to get the oil passages as clean as possible.  Maybe it'd help oil flow in your engine? Just another thought.

how long has it been since u changed the oil?? id change the oil and switch to a different brand..see if u still get the same problem if u do maybe something go into the oil and pluged the system???


anywho i hope u get it fixed

This is a funny area of science, this is
what I know off the top of my head, no
internet reasearch or study to backup
the statements.

1. Engine bearing tollerances are 1-2
thousands of an inch, 1.5 is about right,
and this has not changed much, as far as
I know in recent years.

2. Oil has a "measurment" and a micrometer
can measure this thickness, it's in the range
of .75-1 thousands of an inch, as far as I
know, this measurment is the same for 5-30
or straight 40 weight oil. The weight of the
oil determins how thin "vescosity" when hot,
like the difference in pumping gear oil into a
diff and pumping motor oil into an engine, yes
I know they are not hot, yet, but the effort required
is substantially greater to pump gear oil.
Hot or cold a thicker oil will take more power to pump.

3. Oil needs room to flow, and a tight tollerence
reduces the oils flow rate, less oil means heat, most
people don't realize that oil plays a major roll in
cooling, as well as lubricating, cleaning, protecting
from rust, corrosion of acids, carbon suspension (black
oil is full of carbon) and wear reduction, motor oil is
the most reasearched fluid on planet Earth, bar none.

In a press conference years ago, some VW engineers
were asked about the unusually high oil temps in their
engines, and after a few moments to convert the Degrees
F* to Degrees C* their reply was that the oil temp was fine,
and if it was lower they would not get the fuel mileage that
they were supposed to get, so now go out and look at the
bottle of 5-30 and read the front, I think it will say Fuel Saving
or some other similar statement like Saves Gas ..........

I welcome anyone to reasearch and throughly dive
into this subject, we might even all learn somthing
and come away with a greater knowedge on the matter.

BTW I use 5-30 in winter, 10-40 in the warm months,
and 20-50 in the hot summer, and I do this for the flow
and cranking speed that I want to have in these types
of weather temps

Wild

When I worked for the Kendall Oil distributor for Oregon, it was explained to me as...

The low viscosity rating (i.e. 5 in 5-30) is the cold temp rating. The high rating (30) would be the hot rating... so 5-30 would have a viscosity similar to "unimproved" oil of 5 at cold temps, but only thin out as much as a 30 rating at higher temps.

The oil additives are usually to "bump" the viscosity up. The "cleaners" can actually cause some engines problems. Assuming you need to clean the engine, it can loosen pieces of hardened carbon, which may block oil passages, cause the bypass valve to stick, or can sometimes cause oil seals to start leaking. Instead, I have had some success by changing oil at 500-1000 miles. It's safer than using additives. (I also try to always stick with the same brand of oil as used by the former owner.)

Man O- Man did I open up a conversation here   First off to answer the question, I just changed it about 700 miles ago.  I usually do it no more than 3,000 miles, sometimes less if I know its coming up and it's a nice weekend.  It didn't do it a year ago, but then little by little it started and now it does it every cold start.  I'm thinking it's a cold start issue.  I've been using Castrol for years from little motors like a 1.3 in a Ford Festiva  to a Olds big block in a Buick Electra I had years ago, to a strait 6 in a Chevy pickup that's still in the family after 12 years and still running strong.  I don't  think its the Castrol, I don't think they've changed the detergents, but who knows.  I use Purolater filters, problems not there.  I'm going to see how it goes when it gets colder out, if it goes away it's wear and tear and the thickness of the oil.  

    And Wild, dude, you know your dino juice
  I learned a lot from that though, I'm thinking of going to 10-40, although, next time I change the oil it'll be in Sept. or Oct. and going into winter.  We'll figure it out. ;DDave