First of all, I'm new...new to my Samurai and the forum...I need counsel and support from those wiser and more experienced than I.

I'm greatly considering changing the rear brakes on my 88.5 from stock drums to disc brakes. I've looked around online at kits for this swap and now I'm familiar with the Spidertrax kit and the Trail Tough kit. I've also seen the Spidertrax E-Brake kit and the brake line kits that work with these set ups. So, I think I know what my options are as far as aftermarket kits. Does anyone think one is better than the other? Since I will have to supply a pair of rotors and calipers (that's it, right?), does anyone suggest which to go with? Should I just get a pair of stock front Samurai ones?

Basically, I want to know how difficult a job this is to do. I really want to know what I'm doing before getting into something that might be way over my head (I am a "learning" home mechanic). Does anyone know of a good source to guide me through this install? I want to do as much research as possible before buying these expensive parts.

Also, is there anything else I should consider doing while I'm attempting this conversion? A mechanically-experienced friend once told me that whenever you consider doing one job, think about the other jobs you might do while parts are ripped out and whatnot. So, switching the rear drums to disc brakes is main priority but if there's something else I should consider while doing that conversion, please let me know. I greatly appreciate any help and solid direction that can be sent my way. 

I've run the SpiderTrax kit for probably 10 years now. It's a little expensive, but very easy to install. The only difficult part is
cutting the stock drum backing plates off the axles.

If you are currently running 31" or larger tires, the rear disk setup is very noticable in increased stopping power. If you are still stock or close to, not so much.

Another nice advantage to the kit is the ease of removal for working on the diff for instance. You just remove the calipers from
the bracket and fold up out of the way. No removing and blocking the brake lines and the mess resulting from. Remove the caliper brackets and the axles come right out.  Atip on removing the stock backing plate. It will seem the axle is stuck in the housing, but it usually is the backing plate stuck to the axle end. Carefully slide a small standard scewdiver or chisel under the plate and tap it in with a hammer. Should pop right off.

The SpiderTrax kits normally use the stock calipers , pads, and rotors. You can get new ones, but if you get them from the wrecking yard, have the rotors turned and use new pads.

The instructions that come with the kit are very clear and complete. Good luck.

CspgsZuk, thanks for the great info! Did you install the Spidertrax E-Brake kit too? If so, any tricks with it?

With using stock calipers, is there anything I need to do with them if I get them used? I understand the idea behind getting used rotors turned and new pads but would there be anything to consider with using "junkyard" calipers? (I think I might just get some new pads and rotors...they're not too expensive at all) I haven't found new calipers for sale online anywhere. Any suggestions there?

Will I need any special tools for this install? What did you use to cut off the stock drum backing plates from the axles? (I assume the instructions explain this procedure?)

Thanks again for the great help.

Anyone else have any input on the rear disc brakes conversion for the 88.5 Samurai? The more advice I have, the better!

808SS,
   Junkyard calipers are fine. Just make sure the grommets are not worn thru or torn. I used a air driven cutoff wheel to
remove the backing plates. Make 2 cuts  some inches apart so when they meet at the axle you have a slot wide enough
to slide the axle out. Take your time, it gets alittle difficult when the cutter gets close to the axle.
   Yes, I also have the SpiderTrax e-brake kit. It does work OK, but not as well as I would like. It does slip when you're at
a good angle and need to restart. It is a bit more to get installed. You need to drill several holes for the e-brake cable bracket,
could be welded. The centering ring for aligning the flange and driveshaft can be tricky. It wants to slide all the way into the
notch. I also instaled a Toyota PU driveshaft and that causes some problems with the mounting bolts - need to shave the bolt heads way down so the will pass thru the e-brake caliper bracket.
   I can't think of any exotic tools you would need for these kits. The backing plate cutting is the bugger. Many ways to do it.

CspgsZuk, did the installation instructions for the kit explain the whole process of cutting the backing plates?

So, I need to find 2 junkyard calipers (w/ good grommets), 2 rotors, and 2 pads? Is that it?

Do you think the SpiderTrax E-Brake kit is not worth it? Would you suggest something else? Does this kit come with good instructions too?

Thanks again!

The e-brake is fine, I just wish it held better, but my TT is pretty heavy with armor, ARB front bumper, winch, etc. It is a great add to your vehicle. I'm not aware of alot of alternatives. Trail Tough has a similar kit. I have seen a writeup on using calipers that have an e-brake lever - old Peugeou (SP?) calipers. I think on the old Off-Road forum there is a writeup on how to use the front caliper brackets by cutting a slot and welding it to the axle end.

I don't remember if the instructions mentioned a procedure for removing the plate, just that it is necessary. It really is a simple
operation, just PITA because of the angle and the metal is spring and tough.

Tom is an engineer and he puts out good products with clear instructions.

CspgsZuk, thanks for the input. Yeah, my Samurai doesn't have as much armor as yours (yet) so I think the SpiderTrax E-Brake will hold a little better (maybe). Your input has convinced me that this install is something I can figure out (maybe w/ a buddy) and that the SpiderTrax kits are the way to go. So, in order to prep for this install, I've got to find some front calipers w/good grommets, rotors, and pads. Do you think I need the brake dust plates from the front too? Nothing else I'll need?

I don't know if there is room under the caliper mounting bolts for the dust plates. The tolerance is pretty close for the caliper
to mount directly over the rotor. I don't use them and haven't seen any reason to, actually.

That part list should do it. If the pads in the calipers you obtain have a least 3/8" to 1/2" material on them, they should be OK to use. Definately have the rotors turned though, unless they are perfectly flat. Not likely , as the pads will wear the rotor down somewhat over time.

I did this swap with a home made kit based on the instructions from http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2000/zukdiscs/zukdiscs.cfm

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/general-suzuki-forum/sj-rear-disk-brake-install/

The kit that has an e-brake setup in it is the one that uses the Subaru rear disks.  An alternative to buying the disk e-brake kit that bolts on the back of the transfer case is to find an SJ-410 transfer case that has the drum on the back.  It will bolt straight onto a Samurai T-Case.

Right on, CspgsZuk and Drone637. Thanks for the great info...keep it coming if you think of more.