what do you guys think about using uhmw polyethylene for a body lift it would be a round cylinder probably 2 1/2'' wide and most likely a 2'' body lift.

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another thing is what material is most commen for a body lift? how high of a body lift is most commen the plan is 2 inch coil spacer lift and 2 or 3 inch BL I am thinking of putting 31's or even bigger, but I don't want to get into trimming the fenders. I will trim the bumper, but don't want to trim the fender.

i run 31's.
i did the 2" puck lift and re-arranged the stock body mount bushings to lift |removethispart|@ 1 1/8".
still had to hammer/cut/bend the front wells some.
mabe less well modification if the body was lifted more?
i was going to use some 2" square tube to space everything up that much, but got lazy- mabe later.

i think the cylinder things sound like nice material.
how did you plan on extending the bolts?

That's the problem, the body studs are too short, and with a solid plastic
type of spacer, there isn't any room to put a nut on the stud. you would
have to build a "hollow bolt" to reach up and get onto the studs.

Most common would be square steel tubing, keep the stock rubber isolators
and bolt the body to the top of it, and the frame to the bottom of it

Wild

after looking on the body I realized that. BUT like wild says build hollow bolts OR I got another idea, but I don't know if I can explain it. basically at the hard war store i can get long nuts. I would get a long nut that was about 1'' to 2'' and thread that on to the body stud with the body jacked up and off the block, then I would put in the spacer and lower the body down on the frame. now I would take a bolt and thread it in from the bottom into the extended nut. does that make sense? it would only cost me $20 for a 2'' BL plus cutting the cylinders to length and drilling a hole in the center and extra bolts. I think steel tubing would cost more. that is why I am thinking of doing the uhmw plastic. the full plan is to make my own coil spacers of of the same material and using the puck I cut out of the coil spacer to use for the BL. Basically my cheap DIY lift. I am going to get the material ordered soon. And for some reason 30/9/15 and 31/?/15 tires are CHEAP used.

The body studs are metric, I don't know if you can get metric hardware, I
never could find what I wanted, bolts and nuts yes, sleeve type nuts no.

I made my own body lift with steel blocks, that had a plate welded inside
that was threaded, problem was I couldn't ever get them tight enough
and eventually I worked the body studs loose, I had to rebuild the 6 main
body mounts with cutting and drilling, plates for strength and ohh what a
pain, just make sure the system you use is able to be good and tight and
doesn't cause the problems I had.

The plastic you are looking into might be more than steel, and the steel
is easy to work with, just a metal saw or sawzall and a drill, a few bolts
of the right size and length and metric nuts and washers to hold it onto
the body studs. tough and can be checked after wheeling to make sure
the lift nuts and bolts stay tight.

Wild

I agree, I think I paid $15 for a 4' length of 3X3X3 X 3/16" steel, the hardware can get expensive, but sounds like that cost is going to exist in both options. 

Looks like this...

That's a great picture, I was wanting to post one, but I don't have one, Thanks

yes, thanks for the picture. I will check the price for going each way and se how that goes.

the long bolts is the way skys 2" i think?  i thought about making some for my own rig.  stan

sky's does have the extanded bolts. i need to see if they sell just the bolts

I agree, I think I paid $15 for a 4' length of 3X3X3 X 3/16" steel, the hardware can get expensive, but sounds like that cost is going to exist in both options. 

Looks like this...

I like to get rubber disks cut out that go between the top of the lift block and the body, then use
the stock rubber puck (the one you see now on the top) between the frame and the bottom of
the lift block.

This way the lift block is isolated, which is quieter and won't cause any
rusting problems from the block grinding away at the paint on the frame.

Wild

Check out nitromax's website!  I seen on here somewhere, he has a step by step with photos for 2" body lift

I like to get rubber disks cut out that go between the top of the lift block and the body, then use
the stock rubber puck (the one you see now on the top) between the frame and the bottom of
the lift block.

I was thinking along the same lines, but actually putting the stock puck between the frame and the lift block, and then cutting the stock bottom puck in half to use between the body and the top of the block.  This would put me back to 3" of lift vs the 3.5" of lift caused by the recessed section of the stock puck.

Check out nitromax's website!  I seen on here somewhere, he has a step by step with photos for 2" body lift

Or....   you can take a look at our Archive and Gear Guide Sections for a lot of technical information! We just happen to have an article on how to do a 2" body lift... The lift covered is so economical and works very well. It would be hard to make a home grown that could compete on performance and price.

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120104/feature_sky_bodylift_install.htm

Hope this helps, Eric