The 3" bl gave you the room to add larger tires. It has nothing to do with the suspension and it's cycle. The cycling of the suspension can be considered articulation at it's fullest point. So to get the most articulation with the larger tires, you'll need to determine where to stop the compression on both front and rear axles, to keep the tires off the sheetmetal. This is best done without the coil on the axle. The coil is not a link component of the suspension so it's not necessary for this measuement.
At this point measure the distance that rear shock must be. Subtract 1/2" if the axle is sitting on the collapsed bump stop, subtract 1" if it's not. (You may have to 'adjust' the bump stop lower to keep the tire off the body.) Consider this to be the minimal shock compression for the rear. Now go find the larger traveling shock with this minimal compression measurement that would mount into your frame mounts. Note: your original shock is rather small in diameter. Any larger diameter shock will interfere with the axle, mount, etc.
As for the front, you're rather limited to the operational angles of the cv axles. You could just flip the upper mount and be done with it, but you'd be better off to do the same type of measurement as you did in the back.
Once all this is determined, don't forget to look at your brake lines, parking brake lines, tie rods, control arm bushings, driveshafts, u-joints, and anything else which is linked to the axles. Any maintenance necessary is best to be performed at this time also. Otherwise, it could place you in a bad situation.
Hope this helps.