Ohh, and my Sidekick was rear ended by a Thunderbird, they towed away the
T-bird because it was not drivable, the Sidekick drove home with a slightly bent
exhaust tailpipe 

Wild

Thanks man, good to hear that.  The simpler I can make this the better, never messed with these "front loader" style diffs. 

This type diff is a drop out 3rd or "Ford" style and are
easier to work with for the most part.

And yeah, the Vic got towed too,  I think my wheel had a negetive effect on his radiator, and it shattered the fiberglass cowl, plastic bumper and headlight.  And his airbags blew. 

reminds me about when an s10 decided to run the light and smoke the front end of my kick. i got a broken headlight mounting tab, the grille was broken, and my front bumper cover got some scratches. meanwhile he had the rad broken, front end mangled, and got taken away on a flatdeck, i drove to work.
then i had a Subaru try to take out the back end, it again scratched the plastic bumper and pushed the truck ahead 2 feet. Subaru had the hood, both fenders, bumper, both headlights, all shattered. she was lucky the airbags didn't go off. again, it went away with a flatdeck.

there pretty good little trucks.
my only other time its had an accident was when my neighbour backed into the drivers door. it bent the door in 2 inches and only scratched her cars bumper, but i got 800 bucks out of it... i popped the dent out and all thats left is a little crease, but ill live with that.

So I cut the bracket off the frame the rest of the way. That made it easier to straighten it out on the bench vice.  Welded the the tube back onto the bracket and got the body mount stud out of the rubber.  Planning on makin a patch panel for the body mount and welding the old stud to that.  Test fitted the bracket to make sure it'll match up to the frame rail and the body where it needs to, looks pretty close. More progress:

You should sleeve that body mount with a section of pipe/tube that
fits snugly and needs to be pounded in. And you might just want to
put a through bolt thru the top of the body, you will need to cut an
access flap behind the front seats, in the foot well area, if you need
some pictures I can provide them, this is how I fixed my pulled out
body studs. I think trying to weld the patch panel to the bottom of
the truck is going to prove harder than you think, as well as the quality
of the weld just from the difficult position you have to be in to weld
there, and the body coating the thin metal there isn't strong, as well
as the body stud was installed and welded from the top at the factory,
you will probably have a gaping hole there to contend with also.

My $.02 worth

Wild

Thanks for the heads up, wild.  I was thinkin about makin a cup to go around the factory body mount, so I could weld it from the side, I do like the idea of goin from inside though.  I might do both; fix the panel from the outside, and cut the access hole and put a piece of metal in there with the mount bolt through that.

Made more progress on lunch,  picked up a piece of schedule 40, cut it to length to fit nicely inside the bracket and the frame.  Drilled some holes in the original tube to plug weld to the new tube.  Started to work on the body mount,  made the outer panel, still gotta cut the access hole in the floor to put some sheet metal inside. 

Pics of the rusted/broken body mount, and the new outer panel I made up, with the hole drilled for the body stud:

How thick is that plate? On the inside of the body, under where you
would have to cut an access to see, there is a heavy channel that is
welded to the body, if your plate isn't strong enough, the stud will
work loose and pull out again.

This repair is a pain, I decided to weld a plate on the bottom, as well as
a plate on the top side as well, then just used a bolt instead of a stud
and used 2 heavy washers, one for the bolts that are used to hold down
the framing in a house, and another thick hardware washer on top of that
to make sure the bolt won't pull out

Wild

Hey Wild, I'm not sure the exact thickness, it's about as thick as the original metal that's all rusted out,  I'd say about 3/32 or 1/8 or somethin like that.  I'm probably gonna do the same, open the floor up,  put a piece of metal in there and weld all around it.  I was planning to use the original stud, welded to both patches.  Now after reading your post,  I'm thinkin I'll use a bolt too, so I can run a nut down and squeeze both patches in tighter to weld closer to the body.   Then I'll probably weld the bolthead to the patch and remove the nut to weld the bottom.  Whattayathink?

Just welded on the top should work, I didn't weld the top
of the bolt, so I could pull them out, you know frame lift
or something else, just leaves options. As far as using the stock
studs, I like using SAE bolts instead, much cheaper and lots
more options for length and nut types

Got ya, weld the patch on top, and the one on the bottom, but leave the bolt unwelded and use the extra big washers to keep the bolt from pullin through.  I'm gonna need to fix the rusted mount on the driver side too, so changing to a longer bolt is a great idea for a future body lift.  Some more pics, and some of the 'yards verry tired first gen workhorse.

My 90 tracker got smacked about a 100 yards from my house. It was totaled, all because of some idiot thought he needed to be on his cell phone. I walked away but the poor little truck did not it ripped the axle out from under the back pushed the rear quarter panel in and bent the drivers door. The cop said i was lucky because of the rims and tires i had redirected the impact away from me.