ok after a long debate over turbos..and bimmers mercs and lades i have decided today to not buy a new car..but to go solid instead   idaholwb is the one to blame for that =)...going full kicker 3...duel t cases locked front and rear =) bout 6" sus lift with a 3" bl =) will run 35"s on the street and 33"s for the trail =)

idaholwb will have to chime in on any specifics since we didnt really get into huge detail..we are going to start with the sammy case and front housing in 2 weeks =)

yay yay yay...also on a side note im finall going to get a damn vent for my moms car!!!! lol

ldaho..you da man =)

We need plenty of pictures!

another SAS, man Idaholwb must be making some good paper off their SAS swaps.  i still wana go SAS but i think i might run into the same probs i'm having right now. i'll sty IFS for the time being.

stu

We need plenty of pictures!

Isn't that a requirement for a project this big?


Hope everything works out for ya on your project, Mike

 Paper's not in the bank yet, still stuck in the wind.

The more the merrier(I am)!

Be sure to get extra width and strength in the axles.

The stock width and strength just isn't enough.

If I had it to do all over again I'da gone with the toyota t-case kicker, and fullsize landcruiser axles.
You'll thank me.

~Nater

 In the coil front suspension theory, the rubbing problem you have, won't be a problem. As far as strength goes, as far as I know, you have only broken a rear stock axle shaft, right?
And doesn't Toy stuff still break birfs with 4 cyls. anyway? And aren't the Toy axles like very expensive to regear??
Just a thought.

well im pretty sure idaho will be taking plenty of pics of his 4door so i can learn =) and ill send him a disposable or 2 so he can take pics of the axel build up =)....and ofcourse when its all paid for and finally shipped to me i will take pics of it going in

it looks like itl take 3-4 months starting in 2 weeks =) thats everything..gears tcases everything but tires lol

the way we were talking i will run 35"s on the street and 33"s to wheel

hmmm what else...cant think of anything =) and suggestions post away

oh yah..i think that idaho was talking about maybe making a sas kit =) (hehe now ur in for it idaho lol)

i know this may be dumb..but when i go SFA do i still need locking hubs?? im kinda confused on that

i have heard about longfeilds but never took the time to reserch them.  what are they and where could someone buy some(for a yota, not tracker).

stu

In the coil front suspension theory, the rubbing problem you have, won't be a problem. As far as strength goes, as far as I know, you have only broken a rear stock axle shaft, right?
And doesn't Toy stuff still break birfs with 4 cyls. anyway? And aren't the Toy axles like very expensive to regear??
Just a thought.

And you speak with what experience ?

Kimball,
This isn't a flamer, its just that I think that everything you just said is totally wrong.

In the coil front suspension theory, the rubbing problem you have, won't be a problem.

Um yes it will.

I still rub on the frame front, AND back.  So no matter what coils I choose, I'll still rub with the stock sidekick width.  This means that I need a couple inches wider.  Wheel spacers or more backspaced rims, both of which are harder on bearings.

As far as strength goes, as far as I know, you have only broken a rear stock axle shaft, right?

Broken plenty of these babies,  even at idle.  (no kidding here people).  No matter what Sidekick axles I choose (custom aftermarket, etc) breakage with my puny little motor is inevetiable.  So if I went bigger to start off with and Then custom on top of it.  I might not have as many problems.

And doesn't Toy stuff still break birfs with 4 cyls. anyway? And aren't the Toy axles like very expensive to regear??

Well when I've already paid for totally cutom stuff and it can't handle the mustard.  I might have started with bigger custom stuff to begin with.  With a 180:1 craw ratio, I don't think that anything Suzuki sized is going to handle it.

So fullsize landcruiser stuff might be a better solution (only thing I know of with the proper offset diffs, which is bigger then what I've got)

Just a thought.

And how much money did YOU spend for this 'thought"?  Seems to me that your truck with the standard solution has NEVER been driven.  The only prototype that's been generated from 'IDAHO' and actually trailed, (lightly mind you) has been plagued with problems.

Just a thought and an opinion from a guy who's really been there and done it.

Again,
If I had it to do all over again I'da gone with the toyota t-case kicker, and fullsize landcruiser axles.

That way, I'd have all of my width and strength issues already taken care of without going totally custom.  THEN if I needed something stronger I could find other solutions.  

But as it is right now, what I've got is just about as good as I can get, no more upgrade path here.  Just more broken parts.

You'll thank me.
~Nate

gesh this topic heated up quite quickly..

the axels that will be used have a life time garentee..so they should be prety strong

couldnt u fix the rubbing by going with smaller tires??

the way we were talking i will run 35"s on the street and 33"s to wheel

Why not 35's for trail(more ground clearance) and 33" for street(quicker acceleration than 35")

Fredo

i dont really want a HUGE lift..so clearing 35s would be a little harder