It all started after i changed the o2 senser not sometimes then i drive i will shift and get back in gas it seams to bog down i push harder and its like it clears up could my TPS be acting up?

TPS, dirty MAF, low fuel pressure/plugged filter, plugged CAT, dirty air filter
and perhaps a slipped timing belt could all be contributing to this problem.

Start with the easy stuff, like the air filter and work through it

Wild

Don't maen to hi-jack but mine is doing the same thing it is missing too. It gets worse when I advance the timing and when I'm at light throttle cruise it is most noticeable

that sounds like plugs or wires or both, also check
the gap on the plugs

Wild

new timing belt   no cat  run fine till i changed the o2 senser

My 02 censor isn't very old! I checked the tps,coil,igniter,iat,plug wires and plugs have 2k miles on them and the fuel pump has about 4k miles. I went out to start it one day and it was running cruddy. I went 30mi. One way and the further I went the worse it seemed to run. Same thing coming home!

new timing belt   no cat  run fine till i changed the o2 senser

Well for peat sake, put the old one back in !!

Wild

replaced do to a wire broke off.    it runs great when I first start it and drive.    if I stop some where and turn it off when i start it again is when it happens it bogs under load on the bottom half of the pedal.  it will go away in 15-20 minutes if driving. I wonder if its loading up that's what it feels like

You might of got a bad one, I got a bad Bosch O2 sensor once,
and I really didn't think that would happen.

Your O2 is a 3 wire one and heated, a non heated one will work also, you
just need to connect the right wire, you might check the replacement for
the correct readings, if I remember right, the pins are diagonal from each other
these are the heater pins, the sensor to computer feed is the one by it's self
in the corner, with an ohm meter check the heater pins for continuity, if they
don't give you a value or are open circuit replace the O2.

Also check for voltage at the plug on the truck, if this is dead, the heater won't
heat the sensor and it would act like what you described

Wild

I changed plugs,wires, O2,changed out the tps with one I had. The coil is reading 1.0 primary and 12.99 secondary. According to my haines manual it is way out of spec! My book says it should be 22-30k ohms. How are you guys with the 16 valves checking you fuel pressure with the banjo fitting and no valve stem on the rail. Are guys putting fuel pressure gauges at the end of the fuel rail? Thanks guys!!! I'm thinking it is the coil or TRE fuel pump. It is a little intermittant but misses every where.

I wanted to add something I thought was odd. When I tested the coil secondary resistance it was coil positive to the coil post that goes to the dist. Cap. I then tested the negative to the dist. Cap tower and it also read the same...12.99ohms. Thanks,
KJ

I went and checked fuel pressure and it is in spec! I think I have a computer problem. It is cutting out when i hold it at part throttle in the driveway so I hooked up a volt meter to the injectors. when it cuts out it is just like someone turned the key off and back on while holding the throttle steady. any help would appreciated.

Kevin

check your grounds, the injectors get grounded to fire, if the ECU has
a bad ground it could do that

Wild

Thank you, will check it out.
kevin

There is a bundle of ground wires on the 8V engine on a bolt
or nut where the distributor is, I think it will still be there on the
16V engine, start there, and make sure they are all connected
and are clean and no corrosion on the connectors

Wild