We I dropped off my truck to get 4 linked. Guy has had it for 3 months now and the only thing he has done is get the axles taken off it and all the old brackets cut off. He bought a few parts....heims, and 1.5 in tubing. The guy that is his "partner" is basically just the welder but knows some fab stuff. Basically the guy that knows most of the 4 link stuff has taken off with a bunch of peoples money and hasnt done any of the projects....including mine. He is now 4 months behind on the rent and the electric is getting shut off tuesday.

The welder says he thinks he can do it but I am not 100% confident on that. I know a little about it but but not sure on link location.

Is there anyone that has some build pictures or info that could help me get my sammy home? I basically want it to look like the extreme 4X4 project. I already have the QA1 14" springs and all that. It has yota axles to. Plan on pushing both axles alittle each way and end up with about 100" wheel base.

PLEASE HELP!!!! We are getting started tomorrow.

Not sure if these pics will help much, but basically the top bars come from inside the frame to the center of the axle, on top of the axle. The lower bars mount as far out board on the axle as possible, below the centerline of the axle (This is to control axle wrap).The lower bars then generally mount to the bottom of the frame. As far as the length goes, the top links should be 80% of the length of the bottom bars. If you have any more specific questions, just ask. I, or some one else should be able to help. Good Luck!!

my ? is.... do the tubes need to slide to a point? in and out like an axle does? or are they solid and non moving? is the only movement at the heims or do the bars move in and out as well for articulation? thanks...

wher are you located? i have done many and would be totally willing to lend a hand. but sorry no pics.

my ? is.... do the tubes need to slide to a point?

Nope,  the links are solid,  only movement comes from the end joints.  Driveshaft telescopes to compensate for the movement of the links.

Hope that helps a little.

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my ? is.... do the tubes need to slide to a point?

Nope,  the links are solid,  only movement comes from the end joints.  Driveshaft telescopes to compensate for the movement of the links.

Hope that helps a little.

that helps a ton... also, what do the coil springs cost compared to say pulling some off of like an explorer or something? do they need to be aftermarket? or can they get pulled from a jeep or something? and 1 more ?... how road stable is it? can it be highway friendly?l

Most 4 links are designed to be flexible. Thats the advantage of the system. On road, they will tend to be unstable. That doesnt mean you can't add a stabilizer bar to lessen the body roll, making it stable enough for the street. There is no reason you cant use any coil spring out there, explorer, or maybe Jeep Cherokee. It will be an experiment in how rough a ride you will get. Sidekick or tracker coils would be a logical choice, since the spring rates would be close to correct. Maybe someone will chime in with personal experince.

 I used 14" QA1 #150's on my old zuk running a 3link front/4link rear,scout D44's,5:13's,calmini 6:5.1 gear's,37" pitbull's....It was alittle soft but rode like a fluffy pillow.I daily drove mine and it was the best riding machine I've been in,even down the highway countless time's at 65-70 with no wandering what so ever,tracked great.
 
 Try to mount the coil's on the side of the frame(make's it waaay more stable/handle's corner's ALOT better) plus a lower ride height is alway's good,I was at 20" from frame to ground on 37" pitbull's

 Use a link calculator help's in design of the link system---I like to be around 70% AS with as close to 0 on the roll axis. 70% between the length of the upper's and lower's and try to make the link's as long and flat as possible.

 I used Johnny joint's at the frame and bushing's at the axle's.I run 2x2 .25 wall for lower's and upper's,never had a problem with the suspension and I beat the hell out of it.
 

ya got some good info online. extreme 4x4 did a suspension show and i watched that. I am trying to build my truck like the samurai on extreme. prob diesel and all.

I live in richland michigan. Its between kalamazoo and battle creek.

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/sj-410-rear-4-link-build/

Let me know if you have any questions. 

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/sj-410-rear-4-link-build/

Let me know if you have any questions. 

I sure do.. and not to be a PITA... but if you flipped the JJ's around, and had the JJ's mounted to the axle, vs the solid bushing style ends, would you get more flex out of it that way? or would it be the same? to me, it seams like it might be limited on the axle end, if that makes sense.. and, what are the hook looking things you added? for limiting straps? or?? and another ? is, what size, where do you get them for the best deal, and how hard of a task was this?

and finally, that's 4 link rear, what is  link front??? i'm soo confused... is 4 link front not as good? seams like it would be just as stable and a bit more economical to do the front the same way... no???   thanks and sorry for any and all of my stupid ?'s... I am thinking about doing this on all 4 corners, and making it a real krawler, "i'm tired of all the rubbing of the tires, and all of the obsticles I can't go through due to no flex and no wheel base!!!!!" thanks again....

 You cant 4 link the front unless you run a full hydro steering.....3link the front with 2 lowers and a single top link.My top link had 2 Johnny joint's-one mount on top of the diff the other side to the side of the frame.With this setup you will need a trackbar to keep the axle from moving side to side.

 On the rear 4link at least triagulate the upper's they will keep the axle in place without the need of a trackbar...Or you can triangulate the uppers and lower's.

 I would run the joint's at the frame not at the axle.

You get about the same flex with only one JJ, if you really want to flex you need one one both end.  As it is the primary limiting factor is my shocks.  I built this to help with hill/rock climbs and to improve the handling on the road, it does both very well.

The hooks are for connecting to the tie down straps on the trailer.

As oneal said, you can't do a front 4 link without a hydro steering unless you have a track bar.  We didn't bother with the front as I already have 10" of travel with the RUF springs and folding front shackles.

For the front a lot of people forgo the upper link and just put a Y on axle end on one side to stop the front axle from rotating.  Then you want to run a track bar that is basically parallel to your steering.  This will stop your suspension from being pushed around when you try to turn.

Unless you plan on going really high you will probably need to run your 14" springs up the side of the frame a bit instead of placing them under like we did.  I am running 10.8" springs from a Tracker and it sits about as high as I want to go.  With the wider Toyota axles you should be able to run a bit wider spring mounts without issues.

What size tires are you looking to run?  Do you plan on doing fender trimming as well or just lift it until the tires fit?

You get about the same flex with only one JJ, if you really want to flex you need one one both end.  As it is the primary limiting factor is my shocks.  I built this to help with hill/rock climbs and to improve the handling on the road, it does both very well.



Unless you plan on going really high you will probably need to run your 14" springs up the side of the frame a bit instead of placing them under like we did.  I am running 10.8" springs from a Tracker and it sits about as high as I want to go.  With the wider Toyota axles you should be able to run a bit wider spring mounts without issues.

What size tires are you looking to run?  Do you plan on doing fender trimming as well or just lift it until the tires fit?

I want to appologize as it seams I have highjacked this thread... and I didn't mean to... just trying to get information. all is greatful and appreciated. as far as me, I am planning on running 35's, beadlocks and am getting ready to do some fender trimming like asap... my rig will be down for a while as I have informed my wife what I am going to do with her.... I am still lost on 3 link and 4 link front stuff... probably keep it leaf, its RUF and has revolvers. but the rear sucks bad...  thanks for all the input on the matter, also, can I shove my rear end backwards a few inches (like maybe 10") without damaging anything with a 4link? thanks

If your going to slide your rear axle back more then an inch or two you will need to re-locate your gas tank.  That is one of the reasons I didn't to back any further.  And I like the stock look. 

You will also need to plan on getting a new drive-shaft made up.  Just one more expense though right?