hey so i am probably going to be getting a slip yoke for my sidekick SAS, but i know a shop that will extend my driveshafts for 50 bucks. Has anyone ever sliped there yoke on the kicker/tracker. Please let me know, and SAS rigs would be prefered.
Thanks jon K

Yep, drilled and taped the output on the t-case, tough but doable
then made a custom flange and driveshaft with the front driveline
from a Samurai, I also used a pinion flange from a Samurai for my output
on the t-case

Wild

ya, i called trailtough and they said the slip yoke eliminates both yokes, and then i would use two sami front driveshafts and have them extended.

1 Samurai front shaft is enough to build your new shaft, replace the U-joints
and when you do, use the Sidekick yoke for the diff on the new shaft.

You need to cut and reweld the sami flange on your new shaft

Wild

haha wild you lost me... ill elaborate a little bit. I was seeing if anyone has ever pulled there stock sidekick/tracker driveshafts out of their t-case when wheeling? The reason i am asking is with my SAS swap i will have to get front and rear driveshafts made becasue of the lift. I have been told to purchase trailtough's Slip Yoke Eliminator, and then use two Samurai front driveshafts inplace of both my front and rear sidekick driveshafts. I am going more and more toward doing this, but i found a transmission shop that will extend my sidekick driveshafts (front&Rear) for $100. This is cheaper condsidering the cost of the SYE& the sami shafts i would have to buy. Since trailtough's trail slayer kit does come with slip yoke eliminator do you think i will be alright? HAHA thanks

Ahh, I thought you were asking about a SYE, that's what I was
talking about. I think you might want to use that SYE that's included
in the kit, Suzuki should of done that the first thing instead of those
crazy slip yokes

Wild

I'm not quite sure but I think I understand your question. And depending on the pivot point on your SAS swap you may or may not need additional travel on your slip yoke.  If your installing a trail slayer kit you will be fine. they are designed to barely move the slip yoke in and out under full cycling of the suspension.  I build a drive shaft for the rear of my kick out of a sidekick front. The front rarely ever turns to the u joints are usually mint. Cut the center out and slide it into a piece of DOM tubing the correct lengththat has the same ID as the OD on the front drive shaft. Lay it on a flat surface and weld it in. Works great

HTH
Hutch

ya, well i guess i can always get the kicker done, then flex it with two fork lifts and see how much the driveline moves then go from there. Thanks Jon

The rear shaft might be alright, the front drive shaft will move the most.  So you might just be stuck having to go with the SYE.

I wouldn't skimp to hard on the rear shaft, if you do get it lengthened make sure its balanced out.  Last thing you want are vibrations.

The front is easy, you can make it out of box tubing if you please.  Cheap and effective!


Amilla