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timing problem

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Offline kentandwillow

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timing problem
« on: July 29, 2010, 09:37:30 AM »
I changed the water pump the other day, i needed to take off the timing belt, easy, not the problem, after i lined up  the timing marks on the crankshaft and the cam for TDC, put back together and ran it, now it over heats,,then i took off the dis.cap and the rotor is 180 off,, so i turned the cam 180 so the distributor  is on #1 and it still runs?? it runs the same with the dis. on #1 or 180 off, how??
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Offline wildgoody

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Re: timing problem
« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2010, 10:22:10 AM »
I'm not sure why it runs either way, that's weird, but you put the cam
in the wrong position, correct factory position is crank mark up, and cam
mark down, ya, I don't know why there is a mark on the back timing belt
cover, but if you use that one it's 180* out.

There is also more than 1 timing mark on the cam sprocket, and I can't
remember which one you should be using, been too long, but one is
the right one, and if you used the wrong mark it could still run and could
cause the over heating you now have happening

Wild
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Haptown

Re: timing problem
« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2010, 10:29:43 AM »
This kick-fix link is for a 1.6L but the principal is the same.  When you said lined up, did you mean that both marks at at 12 o'clock and lined up?

kick-fix link
« Last Edit: July 29, 2010, 10:31:52 AM by Haptown »
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Offline kentandwillow

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Re: timing problem
« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2010, 10:36:56 AM »
Hi, thanks, i was using the haynes manual, when i changed the timing belt a year ago, both marks show up,12 oclock, put on the belt and ran great,, this year, change the water pump then i noticed the dis. rotor is 180 out, i checked the factory manuel zukboys CD today and it shows the mark on the cam as down,,crazy, but i don't understand why it runs the same with the dist. 180 out,,,,
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Offline kentandwillow

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Re: timing problem
« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2010, 10:47:58 AM »
and it only started to overheat after i changed the water pump, old one was dripping out the weap hole,,
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Offline wildgoody

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Re: timing problem
« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2010, 10:59:55 AM »
Ya, the over the counter manuals are all wrong, I used the Haynes first
time I changed the belt, and found the same thing, so I pulled the belt
off and put it in right.

You might have to pull the cover off and check the cam marks for the
right one being used

Wild
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Offline kentandwillow

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Re: timing problem
« Reply #6 on: July 29, 2010, 11:24:20 AM »
i tossed the cover out when i changed the belt the first time, now is easy to change it,, don't have to take off the crank pulley to change the belt, the timing pulley only has the one timing mark, and the notch for index dowel,,,but why will it run 180 out ?? is driving me nuts, going to change the thermostat and the rad-cap today, the radiator don't seemed to be plugged, i was thinking that the fan clutch might be bad,, so i rigged it to spin the same speed,,, didn't help,,   
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Offline wildgoody

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Re: timing problem
« Reply #7 on: July 29, 2010, 07:23:54 PM »
It is possible that you have a spark arcing across the top of the
rotor, and hitting 2 plugs at the same time, this is commonly called
a wasted spark system on a 4 cylinder that uses 2 coils

Wild
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Offline mrfuelish

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Re: timing problem
« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2010, 12:58:33 PM »
How about the crank shaft turns at a two to one ratio so the cam mark can be on top or on the bottom, just don't pull the distributor out it will be ok.
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Offline kentandwillow

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Re: timing problem
« Reply #9 on: July 31, 2010, 08:24:22 AM »
yeah, got it now, my mistake, the timing mark on the cover got me all *%&$ up, or they should say TDC #4, thanks for the help, anybody want to buy a Haynes manual cheap???
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Offline wildgoody

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Re: timing problem
« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2010, 10:14:04 AM »
Ohh, I get what you did now, I was thinking that you just turned the rotor on the
distributor and it still was running, that is weird, but you never messed with the distributor
and so the timing was never moved  :)

Wild
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