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snapping axles

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snapping axles
« on: September 17, 2010, 02:19:54 PM »
I have a 1990 tracker with the 6in calmini lift, rugged ridge hubs,31/11.50/15 super swamper ltbs. any time I get on it a little I snap the right front cv axle,anybody else ever run into this? ??? ???

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Offline ebewley

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2010, 07:18:01 PM »
I have a 1990 tracker with the 6in calmini lift, rugged ridge hubs,31/11.50/15 super swamper ltbs. any time I get on it a little I snap the right front cv axle,anybody else ever run into this? ??? ???

Things that come to mind are: did you modify the kit to get more droop?, did you use the diff drop brackets and if so, did you heat and beat the crossmember so that the diff doesn't hit it?, is your center diff broken maybe a little?

One thing that you can do is upgrade to 26 spline axles that are in 96-98 Sidekicks. Also, you can get a steel center section and 3rd member from a manual transmission GV or XL7 to add even more strength.

Hope that helps... -Eric
Eric L. Bewley                               
Editor, ZUKIWORLD Online                   

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Offline wildgoody

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2010, 09:17:43 PM »
When you say right front CV axle, you mean the outer part, the CV part
not the inner stub shaft, right?

If so the CV angle is too steep, the inner axle can only take a max of 20*
and that's pushing it.

Did you do a strut mount flip? if so, undo it, that's too much drop

Wild
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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2010, 03:37:40 AM »
nothing on the lift is modified, I did not modify the crossmember, the inner loint on the cv shaft is what is seperating

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Offline wildgoody

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #4 on: September 18, 2010, 07:40:02 AM »
Ya, I had the same trouble with my home brew lift. Did you change out the cup CV (passenger side in US)
to a flange? is that the side that is separating? as you did not specify tho I realize it could be both.

I added a spacer to my drivers side, but I also have the Hagen widening mod, so that created the problem,
have you done that mod too???

I had trouble with the balls in the CV pulling the shaft on the pass side, and the bearings ride on the wire retainer
ring to the point that it gets all bent and won't go back in if removed.

I ended up building an extended cup on the one side and a 1" spacer on the other, but have since gone to
a single CV shaft, (flanged both sides) and a GV long side axle shaft which is slightly longer than the OE shaft
so the spacer is only like 1/2" now.

Wild
Real Trucks Are Built, Not Bought,
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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2010, 08:31:58 AM »
it is the rightside(passenger) shaft, what it is doing is over extending the shaft and seperating it at the axle housing side. I thought about cutting the shaft and sleeving it but I dont know how smatr that would be

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Offline wildgoody

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2010, 01:35:32 PM »
That wouldn't work, there is no room and it wold be too weak anyway.

You need a modified cup CV joint or to replace the cup with a flange
and run 2 driver side CV shafts, that should fix your trouble

Wild
Real Trucks Are Built, Not Bought,
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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2010, 02:25:33 PM »
That wouldn't work, there is no room and it wold be too weak anyway.

You need a modified cup CV joint or to replace the cup with a flange
and run 2 driver side CV shafts, that should fix your trouble

Wild

how do I make it run 2 driver side shafts, and can I buy a modified cup cv shaft. I just went out and opened the cv boot and only 1/8 inch if the shaft is in the cup

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Offline wildgoody

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2010, 02:43:46 PM »
To run two driver side shafts you have to cut the cup off and weld on a
flange from a broken long side axle, or sacrifice a good axle for the flange.

The other method would to be, cut the cup off, add a section of the same
dia. heavy wall tubing like DOM, and weld the cup to the end of the tubing,
this gives you the CV range of motion you want and need

Wild
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Offline Jluck

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2010, 10:48:03 PM »

"The other method would to be, cut the cup off, add a section of the same
dia. heavy wall tubing like DOM, and weld the cup to the end of the tubing,
this gives you the CV range of motion you want and need"

Wild
[/quote]


any pics of this wild?
life is 10% what happens to you and 90% what you do about it!

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Offline wildgoody

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #10 on: September 19, 2010, 01:11:01 AM »
I'll look, but I don't know where it is
« Last Edit: September 19, 2010, 01:24:10 AM by wildgoody »
Real Trucks Are Built, Not Bought,
And Chrome Don't Get Ya Home.  

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #11 on: September 19, 2010, 05:46:56 AM »
so does the flange on the housing just pop out on the driversside?

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Offline wildgoody

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #12 on: September 19, 2010, 08:18:18 AM »
Yes, the flange side is the long side axle shaft, it goes all the way to
the center, all 1 piece, so you have to get a broken axle or sacrifice
an axle to get a flange.

Depending on the circle clip on the inside makes a difference of how
hard the axle shaft is to get out, the last one I removed wouldn't come
out until the clip broke in half after 30 min of beating on it, the best ones
pop out with a big flat screw driver, or a prybar and maybe a hammer whack
or 2

Wild
Real Trucks Are Built, Not Bought,
And Chrome Don't Get Ya Home.  

An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject.

Re: snapping axles
« Reply #13 on: September 19, 2010, 08:40:30 AM »
I know I am asking alot of questions, I have built several Jeeps however with the economy the way it is they are a little out of my range. I thought the tracker would be a more cost efficient toy.

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Offline wildgoody

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Re: snapping axles
« Reply #14 on: September 19, 2010, 10:11:02 AM »
Ehh, that's what the forum is for

 ;)
Real Trucks Are Built, Not Bought,
And Chrome Don't Get Ya Home.  

An armed man is a citizen. An unarmed man is a subject.