Ok, I have a 4x4 '92 Tracker. I figured snow and such would be no problem. But, I was out this winter and got stuck in a rut and couldn't get out without a push. I had the hubs locked and the transfer case was in 4 low.  My friend got out and looked to see if one of the front tires were turning, but neither were.  So the other day I stopped on a gravel road and through it in 4 low again. I wanted to see if I could kick up some gravel and did, but only at the rear wheel, nothing from the fronts. What does this mean?
Here's some more info... in 2 wheel I get going at a speed of about 20K/hour at 3500RPM's and in 4 high, if i remember correctly, its about the same as that... but in 4 low at 3500 RPM's i'm going about 5K/hour... Since I don't really understand the workings of 4 wheel drive and don't know how to interpret this infomation, can anyone explain how the 4 x 4 works? In detail? Please? What I really don't get is how the gearing gets so much lower but the front tires don't spin. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Robert

sounds like the front hubs are dirty and have
rust in them, they just need a good cleaning,
regrease and reinstall.

One way to check this is to jack one front wheel
up and lock the hub, now turn the tire by hand,
is the shaft turning ? if not, the hub isn't locking
and needs to be cleaned, repeat for the other side,
all it takes is 1 side to not lock and you are in 1 wheel
drive without a rear locker, a 4x4 is really 2 wheel drive
without lockers, or with stock open diffs.

Good Luck
Wild

i agree with wild or u know the front drive may be gone. i would stick wirh the hubs.

I guess when you say, "Is the shaft turning?" You mean the halfshaft and not the drive shaft right?
And should both turn, on both sides? Wait, I'll answer that myself... Yes both should turn on both sides... halfshafts that is.
?
Also, what is the difference between 4 Low and 4 High?
Robert

Yes, the half shaft, but I knew you would
figure it out    The only way the drive shaft
will turn is with both hubs locked, turning both
wheels with the T-case in 2 WD or neutral.

Also when you check the other side if the first
side is still locked it would turn the drive shaft
if the hubs were working correctly.



Wild

HAVE YOU LOCKED THE FREE WHEEL HUBS??

Have I locked the free-wheel hubs? You guys don't know me, but, I assure you I won't post a question if the answer is that simple (or silly) Yes, I locked the hubs.
Robert

He said so in his first post, but the result
of sticking hubs is the same as unlocked

Wild

sorry,just an idea that hit me.

are they auto or manual hubs??

i had this same problem when i first took my rig out, it had never been wheeled by the previous owner. i was going up a snowy trail when i got to a point that i couldn't go further. my tires kept spinning. so i told my buddy to get out, and look to see if the front and back tires were spinning. only the back one was, so i asked him to see if the front axel shafts were spinning, and they were. it turned out that the drivers front hub was stuck, a little cleaning and she worked again.

this is a free fix, no parts needed  

Ok, here's the deal... I jacked up the car on the driver side... spun the wheel with the hub locked and the T-Case in 4-low and the halfshaft didn't spin... on the other side it did. So, from what I have read earlier I guess I have to fix the drivers side... I have the Chilton book, it's probably in there... but i'll ask anyways... How hard is it? Is there anything I should know about doing it?
I guess this is worth mentioning also... on the side that works.. when I turn the wheel about and inch in either direction there is a slight click.. not a click really... I guess it was more like a rattle... Is that normal or a sign that it might also be in trouble? Also, if I spin the wheel while the hub is unlocked, then lock it, then spin it again, I can hear it click/engage. I would imagine that would be normal. Alright, I hope I provided enough info and asked enough questions... Thanks Guys
Robert
Oh and yes, they are manual hubs

That rattle is probably the spider gears
going around, BTW the T-case doesn't
need to be engaged, and if you spin the
wheel with it not engaged the rattle would
probably stop.

The hardest thing is the springs inside the
hub, if they get off the knob are hard to
get back into place, just a little funny not
overly difficult, pay attention as you take
it apart, I don't think the springs need to
come off, it's usually rust or goo on the
splines that lock the hub to the axle.

Wild

Hey Wild,
I just read the book on it and it says "install a 'new' O-ring" Do I have to? I will do it right now if I don't need that O-ring
Robert

if the old one is OK your good to go,
it goes between the hub lockout and
the wheel hub.