ok so I am going to pick up some tube after thanksgiving to start on a rear cage but I would like to see pics of other samurai's  rear cages to get ideas. I would like one that supports the soft top so I can get rid of the bow and some that would ad great protection for my son.

Thank you.

Anyone that has done any professional fabrication or race applications would tell you the two most important things are use good material (DOM tubing) and triangulation. Be careful of the samurai pics you see. Most I have seen have no triangulation and would probably handle a low speed flop just fine but not a good tumble down the hill with out some carnage. Try google images and look at jeeps they are similar and there are a lot of good designs out there. Also if you are worried about safety consider using the cage to add a shoulder belt to the back Seat.

Here are some examples of poor cage design. At least the one has a triangle bar in the rear.

Here are some examples of proper cage design. I have plans to build one similar to the last one for my samurai eventually. Three main pillars, triangle in rear, dash bar, bar front to back in top middle then a large x from front to back meeting in the middle at the center pillar.

great pics thank you. I like the last one on that second post thank you for posting that one thats about what I had in mind to do to the back with all the added support, ive seen many done very simple with no cross bars for support like the triangles but I wouldnt settle for my son riding in one unless it had some very good support.

Hey man, keep in mind that even with a cage, I wouldn't take my son on the interstate in mine. 

If a fat person sitting on the passenger seat causes it to bust through the floor when there is no rust, then that tells you something about the metal gauge and quality with these little rigs.

They were never meant to be interstate travelers anyway.  It's good that you won't put your son in it until you have a cage, just make sure you cross and triangle brace, and you'll be gtg on local roads.

I'll probably just end up buying a cage and paying a pro shop to weld and install it.

My buddy has the rear section of this cage for sale.
it would come in pieces but comes with everything behind the stock roll bar. located in SoCal

thank you for offering but I think I would rather at this point have it built differently. whats he asking by the way?

he would probably let it gor for 150. he bought the whole cage but he only wants the front.

What is so bad with pipe? I was just going to use 1.75"pipe with 1/8"wall. But my SJ410 is for offroad use only, and 50km/35mph is about as fast as I'll ever get it up to, I don't think its 45HP! will push the 33s much faster

I think its really just the placement of it really. With only going 35mph yourself that pipe should be fine I would think atleast  with proper placement with support bars going acrossed in places and such.

Nope, wrong.  DOM is the only material appropriate for roll cages.

Think of it this way:  You can build a bridge out of plastic straws or hardened steel.  Sure, straws would probably work initially, but you wouldn't want to bet your life on it.

Speed has nothing to do with it.  You can die from a 5mph rollover ... down a hill.  Wheeling is all the more reason to build a beefy cage with triangular supports.  A cage is something I would NEVER go cheap on, just like brakes.  The cost difference is negligible anyways.

From what I have read the main issue with pipe is how it breaks.  Pipe is usually more brittle, so instead of bending like DOM will it will shear off.  There is also a matter of the over-all strength:

Pipe 1 1/2 Sch 40 (A-36)-
Weight - 3.631 lbs/ft
Grade A - Tensile strength - 48,000 psi, yield strength - 30,000 psi
Grade B - Tensile strength - 60,000 psi, yield strength - 35,000 psi

DOM 1.500 X .140 wall (1018) -
Weight - 1.769 lb/ft
Tensile strength - 80,000 psi, yield strength - 70,000 psi

I think you should spend the extra 40 dollars and get the DOM.  There is a reason why racing organizations make you use DOM instead of pipe.

If you are talking about pipe, not electric welded seamed tubing, pipe
does not bend well anyway, tends to kink and split open so you will be
wasting your time and build a cage that will collapse under load when
you need it the most

Wild

Here are some examples of proper cage design. I have plans to build one similar to the last one for my samurai eventually. Three main pillars, triangle in rear, dash bar, bar front to back in top middle then a large x from front to back meeting in the middle at the center pillar.

do you know if that 3rd pic you posted would be able to fit under a soft top

anybody else with some rear interior cages I can see?  I have some credit with lowrange and so im going to try to bribe someone to do the rear cage in exchange for the credit.