I'm a newbie to this site and hope someone can help me.
I just got my Suzuki and the 4x4 does not engage. Now from what I have been told it is either the pump
or the switch on the transfer case. Since the pump is $450 and the switch is 45$, I decided to start with the switch. Am I on the right track? Also when I remove the switch, oil will gush out. What type of oil it.
By the way it is a 5 speed Vitara.

All the help is appreciated.

I'm not as familar with the 99+ trackicks as I am with the pre-99 trackicks, but I'll try to help.
Yeah, it sounds like you are on the right track.  The front axle uses an air pump to "engage" the front wheels.  I don't recall how it is activated.....do the 2000s have a stick in the floor to shift the tcase into 4wd, and then is there a switch on the tcase that activates the air pump for the front axle?  If that is how it works, then you should be able to remove the air line that goes to the front axle and have someone put it in 4wd and see if you get air pressure coming from the pump, or see if you hear the pump make noise (not sure how much noise they actually make though).  You could also check to see if you are getting anything through the switch on the tcase (if it activates the pump).  If it does, then I am guessing it is just a simple on/off switch, so you should be able to check the wiring with a volt meter, to make sure it is operating correctly.
The tcase should take gear oil for lube, just like the earlier ones.

Your problem may just be a leaky hose but it could also be the switch or that the seal in the diff is leaking. The 4wd system is controlled through the ECU, I think that you should get a flashing 4wd light if a fault is detected.

I'd say the best place to start is - what year is your Vitara - you're quoting prices in $ so I'm guessing you're in North America, pre 99 Vitaras don't have the air pump, 99 and later do - also for a post 99 Vitara, upto perhaps '01 there was a separate 4WD control module and after that the ECU handled it - the 4WD light will flash under certain fault conditions, but not because there was any fault detection logic - it's driven from a pressure switch in the pump, if it builds pressure the light comes on, if it doesn't the light stays off, and if it's leaky, the light blinks because the pump turns on and off.

It's a fairly simple system - so rather than throwing parts at it - troubleshoot it ...

Assuming your is '99 or later, wind the window down, switch the ignition on (don't start the engine) and shift from 2HI to 4HI, you should hear the pump run for a few seconds (no more than 10), or you can unplug the pump and connect a 12v test light between the black & red wires and that should turn on for the same 10 seconds - note - the light will not stay on, because the controller will turn it off after 10 seconds.

If the pump runs/light turns on that eliminates the switch on the transfer case and the 4WD control module as the source of the problem.

ok - you said yours is 2000 - so yours has a separate 4WD controller, not the ECU.

In 03 models, the switch is located on top of Transfer Case (TC) so no oil will come gushing out when it is removed.  The switch is to ground and signals the 4WD control that the pump needs to start.  So to check the switch insert a voltmeter probe into one side of switch connector back and with ignition switch on check voltage.  If it is "0" check other side (one of them should be 12 volts), then shift to 4WD and the 12 volts should go to "0".  Or disconnect the switch and with it in 4WD it should have 0 ohms.          I REALLY DOUBT A BAD SWITCH, THEY ARE VERY HEAVY DUTY.
To check pump remove hose from front differential and put it on a very low pressure gauge and turn ignition switch on (gauge still should read "0", switch to 4WD and gauge should go to 6.4 psi.     If a low pressure gauge is not available, use a balloon on hose, it will inflate slightly.     DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR FROM SHOP COMPRESSOR, it will blow out the seals in front differential.

With the pump assembly costing $450, and seals in the differential probably costing just as much, I would buy an ARB

At a price like that, trouble shoot your issue as stated above and then givr Hawk Strictly Suzuki a call 1-888-SAMURAI... They have a few low mileage 2000 Trackers....

Another option....some guys swap out the third for one from the 89-98 trackicks (no air engagement) and add lockout hubs.  That way they get rid of the troublesome air activated third and pump.

I'd say the best place to start is - what year is your Vitara - you're quoting prices in $ so I'm guessing you're in North America, pre 99 Vitaras don't have the air pump, 99 and later do - also for a post 99 Vitara, upto perhaps '01 there was a separate 4WD control module and after that the ECU handled it - the 4WD light will flash under certain fault conditions, but not because there was any fault detection logic - it's driven from a pressure switch in the pump, if it builds pressure the light comes on, if it doesn't the light stays off, and if it's leaky, the light blinks because the pump turns on and off.

It's a fairly simple system - so rather than throwing parts at it - troubleshoot it ...

Assuming your is '99 or later, wind the window down, switch the ignition on (don't start the engine) and shift from 2HI to 4HI, you should hear the pump run for a few seconds (no more than 10), or you can unplug the pump and connect a 12v test light between the black & red wires and that should turn on for the same 10 seconds - note - the light will not stay on, because the controller will turn it off after 10 seconds.

If the pump runs/light turns on that eliminates the switch on the transfer case and the 4WD control module as the source of the problem.

ok - you said yours is 2000 - so yours has a separate 4WD controller, not the ECU.

   Thanks for the great advice,
I just changed my switch because it was the least expensive one and I already had it. Well, it did not solve my problem. The light still does not go in and the front wheel don't turn when i'm 4x4.
I guess tomorrow I will fiddle with the pump. It seems that when I put my ignition on I on only hear my fuel pump go on for a few seconds.

Air pump should only go on when you select 4WD, and if its selected when you turn your key on.

I tested the pump today. When I put on the 4x4 with the ignition switch on, I hear a tock and thats it. When I tested with the 12v , it goes on for 10 seconds and goes off. I never actually hear the pump go on or off. It just seems that the pump is seized. Could that be it.

If you've tested for 12V between red & black and it comes on for 10 seconds, and the pump doesn't run, then the pump module has a problem - the controller shuts the power off after 10 seconds if it doesn't see the signal from the pressure switch in the pump module (the pink wire).

In addition to the pump itself, the module also contains a dump valve, which closes when voltage is applied (this may be what you're hearing) & opens when the voltage is removed, and a pressure switch which senses when the system is up to operating pressure.

You could take the pump module apart and try fixing the pump - and if you can't you replace it - or - you replace it now.

 

This is what I love about this forum: I just learned a whole bunch of stuff I didn't know about 99+ Vitkicks.

On topic, I once owned an S10 Blazer (yes I know *hangs head in shame*) that had a shift on the fly system similar to this (I think).
It's 4wd took a dump, I took it to a shop, who quoted me several hundred for the repair. Being too broke, I talked to a mechanic friend, & we took a closer look. It turned out to be a split vacuum hose at the vacuum module under the hood. He trimmed off about 1/2 inch of the hose, put it back, & the 4wd worked flawlessly the rest of the time I owned it. The sleazy mech didn't get my cash! My friend got some, & a few beverages to boot, & we had a cool night talking shop in his garage.
So, don't assume the worst, like Rhinoman said... check the vac lines & easy stuff 1st, then diagnose from there to fix it right, once. Don't throw parts or money at it if it's not needed.

M2c,
Fuzz

He might have reached the "get your wallet" point.

If you sit in the driver's seat with the ignition on and the engine off and shift from 2HI to 4HI, you should hear the pump run - and this should happen every time you shift - he's getting power to the pump (12V between red & black wires) - so if he doesn't hear the pump, that means there is a problem in the pump module - it might be repairable, and if it were me, I'd be taking it apart before I buy one.

I took one of these actuator pumps apart once and found the little plastic piston arm had detached from the occilating drum on the motor that drove it.  its held on with a tiny c-clip.   On another pump the solder on the red power wire inside had broken off.  These pumps aren't sealed all that well (although they are tucked inside the bumper pretty well)  and moisture can and does get into them.   If it is a bad solder... you may be able to repair.... but you can also find these at pick-n-pulls for around $15-$20 bucks.  Its a crap shoot though because you won't know what you have (good or bad) until you get it home.  

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/suzuki-grand-vitara-vitara-chevy-tracker-(gen-2-platform)-1999-2005/actuator-pump-repair/

New pump is 27940-65D03 - $268.49 at SouthWest Suzuki Motors - looks like I need one too.

My pump runs but apparently does not build enough pressure to open the pressure switch, so the pump runs until the controller times out and shuts it down - I don't have a pressure gauge that can read that low so I'm not sure, but, having disassembled the module and cleaned & tested the dump valve and the microswitch - it's either the pump not building enough pressure or the pressure switch diaphragm not moving.

I'll try to find a gauge tomorrow and verify my suspicion but at this point I'm considering a set of manual free wheeling hubs and doing the actuator tywrap modification.