Hey dangitdave!
Well, for starters, youll need to dissasemble your transfer cast to get to the CASE HARDENED shaft. Yes, its case hardened, not thouroughly hardened. If a machine shop takes a file to that shaft and checks it, it'll be verified as such on the exterior (not the case for the interior). The instructions from there are straight forward, assuming you have the SYE from Trailtough. As for mine, I had mine done by a machine shop in Renton, WA. You can either grin the tip with a cut off wheel ( as trailtough does in the photograph) or, as the machine shop did it, the put it on a lathe and used a carbide tip and went to town on it. Took about 20 minutes of actually machining. Then they had to thread the bad boy. I used Blue locktite on mine...(i think maybe i shouldve gone with red) as youll see that when you connect the SYE flange on the shaft, the rear flange butts up against a C clip that holds the the gears and what not onto the shaft. Anyways...once you get you shaft tapped, reassmnble the bad boy. You might want to consider getting a twin stick, which i have from Rock 4x. Its beautifully made! If youre sticking with the single stick, DO NO FORGET about the bearing...between the shift fork rails. (you'll know if you forgot that bearing if you have a leftover bearing and have no idea where it goes, lol) If you forget to put that bearing in, your t-case can be prone to locking up because the shift fork rail can move under high torque applications! With a twin stick...i dunno, i havent had the rails lock on me yet. Ask brent from trail tough if you have problems, he's saved my ass many times. As for your driveshaft...there are companies that sell complete drive shafts, end to end. Since I got toyota axles, I had TATTON drivelens make my driveshafts. They're completely stout and comparable to Tom Woods driveshafts (or so people say) all i know is that the welds are beautiful and Curtis Tatton is a great guy to speak to. What you will need however, is the inside diameter of the flange to your SYE flange and note to him if youll be using a toyota on the diff end. If thats the case, he'll use a combination u joint and put a toyota flange on the other end. He'll need the dimensions for the pilot hub,( or whatever that step is called). You'll need to know your pinion operating angle as well, for 1310 are not exactly the best at running a steep angle. He can also modify you CV end so it can operate at a steeper angle (i do not know if there will be increased vibration due to the modification) Just let him know your intentions. Ok....heres the kicker...whether you use a Tattons drivelines or yours (Curtis charged me under $300 for a complete driveshaft) youll need a modified flange on the transfer case rear output end. What i mean is that my flange was made with a generic flange, machined to fit the ID of the SYE.
