*2nd.. when removing the boss nut leave it on the thread, just flush with the top of the threads and tap it firmly with a hammer to release the splines. This couples with the WD40 and a sharp pull should release it. *
This is all good except one thing you gotta  pull on the steering wheel before you hit it.
If you have a air hammer it works better just use a pointed tip and drop it into the dimple just don't keep hammering until the shaft swells.

Also be advised some steering gear boxes have a high spot in the center where the gears mesh tighter for a better road feel . this is not likely the case with these little zukes but is is possible.

If the wheel is just slightly off center it's ok to reposition  but check this out and be sure you have full turning radious both ways.
Having said all this this:
The correct way to fix this is to center the steering wheel and reset the toe.when the alignment is done or redone


   

i just dont see where these work... am i blind?  i backed off the coil spacer route cause i was told that my 90 tracker did not have a way to adjust for the camber that would get messed up.  any one got a pic, i just cant see.....

I was skeptical at first too see my camber looked almost like this \ / but no were near as bad, but it was very noticable as folks would tell me about it. The bolt has a cam lobe on it with an arrow on the bolt face pointing to the top of the lobe. So if you pointed that arrow towards the engine you are at full negative camber, that turned out to be too much as my wheel looked like this / \ exactly way too much. Then I pointed the arrow straight up, and my tires looked like this l l and after the wheel alighnment it rides so much better but the tire grooves in the roads still pull me left and right. Have a looke at a couple of pictures to get an idea of how they work.







Now that this fixes one problem it doesn't solve the other remaining issues. You see when you install the Calmini 3" lift you need to add more weight up front cause your actually sitting at about 4" of lift without and added weight. So your control arms are sitting lower,and your springs aren't straight either, and your steering linkage is a little out of wack. Also this problem doesn't give the flex you suspension lift was designed to give you, so it's a trade off. With the steering linkage out of wack it's going to wear quicker.

Look at the front tires of my tracker to get an idea of how my camber was.

this picture doesn't do it justice but you can tell that the front camber is out. No more though it looks straight now

WOW A.O.  great post!  that helps me out alot.  im in.   and will be including these with the spring lift i am doing.

the good luck for me is that when i do the 3" lift, my homemade tube bumper W/ winch is ver heavy.  sch 40 tube!  1/4" wall thinckness.

good for you A.O. - I think we've started something here!!

good for you A.O. - I think we've started something here!!

hey thanks to you for bringing those camber bolts to my attention  

every bit of info i can sponge off this site is helping me alot

good for you A.O. - I think we've started something here!!

Chris did you source yours in the UK?

yeah i know all about damaged threads.

years ago i built a austin mini into a road racer, well i bought a momo steering wheel for it. so trying to remove the stock wheel i pounded on the stud with a hammer. i finally got the wheel out, and the momo on, but the nut wouldn't go on because the threads were damaged, so i drove it without a nut

then one day while sitting at an intersection behind a pinto waiting for it to make a left turn, i looked in my rearview mirror, and saw a white van getting bigger, and bigger knowing it wasn't going to stop   well i held on tight with my arms straight holding the wheel. then bam i get rear ended, i slam into the car in front of me shoving him out of the way. then my little mini starts racing towards the curb. with 10" tires it didn't jump the curb it came to sudden stop slamming my face into the wheel, then i flung backward pulling the wheel out, and smacking myself in the face again  

the moral of that story, is i won't make that mistake twice  

lol, i'm a good bleeder  

LOL thats a funny story.

stu

.. Offroading.net.. yes , easy, from their UK supplier,

Haweka (UK)ltd
Unit 5 Beta
Orchard Trading Estate
Toddington
Glos
GL54 5EB
01242 621001  no web/email!!!

Pair  EZ Cam XR 81250 12mm bolts 17.28 + P&P 4.50 +VAT 3.81 =£25.59

fast delivery, you won't be disappointed.

where are you in the UK?

Ta, I am in Malpas, South Cheshire.

Steve

I'm in Devon - will bear you in mind if ever I go to Wales again

I've also installed the EZ Cam bolts today.



In the front I have OME springs with a 3/4" spacer, Koni shocks and 235 tires.



That's how it looks BEFORE:







After home installation:







...And after the alignment shop:











Quick & easy  

Sounds like the camber bolts are the way to go. When I made my suspension lift, I couldn't find them here(Iowa) at my parts store. I ended up doing like tracker8wr said.
Used a high speed reamer tool that works on a drill or air die grinder,(Northern Tool). I oval'ed out the upper and lower hole along with the 3 bolt holes for the ball joint to allow the bottom of the wheel to adjust out a little more. My camber was WAY off. I used a pair of calipers to measure the holes and get them about the same on each side. I eye'ed the camber and it looks right. Been about a month of driving and the old tires are wearing even. (Still neesd to get the 4" body lift done to fit the 32's), then I'll probably take to an allighnment shop.

DoRon, nice bumper / winch mod - how did you make it fit like that???

DoRon, nice bumper / winch mod - how did you make it fit like that???

This is a small Warn Z3500 winch. I don't know if this mod will work with a bigger winch.

The winch plate seats under the front cross member, attached with 2 U-bolts. The plate also have "sidewalls", and they are attached to each framerale with 2 bolts & a peace of metal from the other side.